There is a plug for the map sensor that I would guess provides the boost information. The other plug goes to the data port plug and that picks up almost everything else such as speed, rpm, water temp and so forth and provides the ability to change power setting levels from 0% to 100% in 25% increments. There are two connectors for pyro probes. The unit comes with only one probe, but if you want to monitor another you can pick up another probe. The monitor only uses the feed from probe one to control defueling. You will have to drill/tap a spot for the pyro probe, but the monitor will still provide the other functionality without it. I ran mine for a couple days without it, but am feeling more secure having it installed and monitoring and controlling exhaust temps.
Installing it was pretty easy. Uncoil all the wires, lay them out in the engine compartment. The map sensor is on top of the intake manifold to the rear of the intake horn. My data port connector was down in the wiring bundle below and forward of the fuel filter cannister. The picture in the installation manual was not real clear on this and mine did not have the rubber plug in it (prior visits to the dealer). Took a while to find, but quick after that. I then ran the wires up into the raceway along the front of the firewall. It will open up if you slide a small flat blade screwdriver into the tabs. I then connected the one pyro probe and ran it through the raceway to the opening just above the exhaust manifold, leaving enough slack for installing later. The rest of the wiring hanging out of the driver's side of the raceway I put into 3/8" split loom. A 10' piece encloses it right up to the plug. From inside the cab remove the big rubber grommet behind the clutch pedal. Cut a small slit and feed the split loom with wires inside through the slit, taking up all the slack. Push the grommet back into place, then run the wires up to the "A" pillar. I replaced my factory "A" pillar with an SRT one I got from my dealer for just under $50. The old one unscrews and pulls off. You have to use the plastic strip on the front edge of the old one, so take care in removing it by cutting the melted tabs. I used a hot glue gun to secure it to the new one. Route the wires up to the new one, and secure it in place. The monitor comes with a mount that slides into a gauge opening. Mine was a little loose, so I wrapped it a couple times with electrical tape. Pretty easy install and by using the SRT pillar the monitor is right by my left hand when I want to switch settings. I have the extreme mode loaded and normally run it at 75%. I feel this is a good combo for everyday around town driving without a load.