Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Burned up my engine today

[Cliffman]

What I would do Dave is sell the box and buy some used injectors. That's gives you some time to save some fun money for the box. Just my thoughts...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

One little bonus of an adjustable box, like my Comp over injectors, is that if a drivetrain problem arises, like my slipping clutch, I can simply set the Comp on a lower power setting and still have full throttle operation - no "feather-footing it...

 

[Cliffman]

Good point Gary but Dave has a slush bucket (Auto) and he's not having a problem with the TC slipping with the added 65 HP using the EZ. My suggestion is to match that same HP using injectors because injectors will give you "cooler" horse power for those of us who are concerned about long pulls and sustained high EGT's and advanced timing that the fueling boxes give us. Of course, all this talk could be completely mute if we find that my EGT gauge was reading off a couple of hundred degrees when I melted #6. I need to think of a way to test my SPA gauge. Gary said I could test it using a volt meter. I need to look in to doing that

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Cliffman

My suggestion is to match that same HP using injectors because injectors will give you "cooler" horse power for those of us who are concerned about long pulls and sustained high EGT's and advanced timing that the fueling boxes give us.

Cliff,



While I understand what you're saying, adding injectors without increasing boost will drive EGT's up from stock. We tow heavy (21,180 GCW/21,500 GCWR), and our stock EGT was 1300 degF. I certainly wouldn't want to throw more fuel at this engine with no other changes. After adding the EZ (with stock injectors) and the EZ's boost elbow along with the 4" exhaust and BHAF, EGTs dropped to 1100 degF (boost increased from 22 PSIG to 30 PSIG. ) Running the EZ with the DD2's, EGTs came back up to 1225 degF and boost jumped to 33-34 PSIG.



Now, to your recommendation, if I unplug the data link cable of the EZ and run it only as a boost fooler, EGTs with the DD2's only run about 1100 degF. Therefore, based on my experience, I would modify your recommendation to state that injectors plus a boost fooler and boost elbow make a good, safe towing combination.



Rusty

 

[KevinK]

Does adding a water injection setup (i. e. cooling the air entering the engine) make the cylinder pressure issue better or worse? I can see that cooling the air will lower EGT's and also allow more air to enter the cylinder (since it's more dense). It seems that this would potentially increase the cylinder pressures. Any thoughts?



Thanks,

Kevin

 

[Cliffman]

You are absolutely right Rusty. He will need the Comp Box to act as a boost fooler when turned off in order to do that.

 

[John]

Just a thought...

... but, what type and brand of engine oil was utilized in the engines with melt downs? Just curious.



BTW, the blowby hose (whether it is connected to a collection bottle or not) IS a bigger liability than most would imagine. In fact, it is very hard to see the blockage unless the radiator is removed. I noticed this on my '98. 5 when I removed the radiator to install my TST KDP kit last Spring. I pressure washed the radiator at a coin-op car wash with the help of Simple Green. Accumulated debris is very hard to remove on the '98. 5 and prior (brass) radiators as the cooling fins are staggered and tend to trap foreign debris.



Also related; I just noticed that Cliffman has an SPA Boost/Pyro gauge... good! The accuracy of the gauge and speed of actual -vs- observed information update is unmatched by any other gauge on the market. After reading the entire thread I remembered the post Brandon made a few years ago pertaining to actual info. update on various brands of pyros. If memory serves, the worst was one that took 51 seconds to finally have observed equal actual!

 

[DLBurns]

Originally posted by RustyJC

Cliff,



While I understand what you're saying, adding injectors without increasing boost will drive EGT's up from stock. We tow heavy (21,180 GCW/21,500 GCWR), and our stock EGT was 1300 degF. I certainly wouldn't want to throw more fuel at this engine with no other changes. After adding the EZ (with stock injectors) and the EZ's boost elbow along with the 4" exhaust and BHAF, EGTs dropped to 1100 degF (boost increased from 22 PSIG to 30 PSIG. ) Running the EZ with the DD2's, EGTs came back up to 1225 degF and boost jumped to 33-34 PSIG.



Now, to your recommendation, if I unplug the data link cable of the EZ and run it only as a boost fooler, EGTs with the DD2's only run about 1100 degF. Therefore, based on my experience, I would modify your recommendation to state that injectors plus a boost fooler and boost elbow make a good, safe towing combination.



Rusty

With the stock injectors and EZ I can easily get to 1250+ pulling a grade at 28 PSI of boost if I keep my foot in it. This is with a 4" exhaust and Afe filter set up.

My trailer is only 12K!!!

Like I mentioned in my earlier post... I have no inclination to set land speed records towing my trailer, just want to be able to keep up with the flow of traffic and do it in a manner that doesn't compromise the integrity of my motor.

Being able to turn the box off when towing is a viable option, but if I need to do that why have the box in the first place if I'm not interested in hot rodding around town? It would seem that no box and injectors would give me safe EGT parameters to tow with.

Am I off base here?

Really want imput from those of you who tow heavy!

Dave

 

[Cliffman]

You need a boost fooler Dave, the added HP is just icing on the cake. I believe you can purchase just a boost fooler but from what I remember there not much less $$$ then buying the Comp Box.

 

[BPINE]

Dave is not getting anymore than he has so there !!!!!

 

[Cliffman]

Hey Pinestine, no 12 valve'ers allowed dude.

 

[DLBurns]

OK

Originally posted by BPINE

Dave is not getting anymore than he has so there !!!!!

Gotta go with what the diesel guru reccommends

I ain't gonna worry about this any more, so I'm outa here

 

[mike.b]

newbie q's

Ok, long time fan, first time poster. That #6 melt down has me freaked. I'm at work so i can't grab a cold one to calm down, so I'm going to ask some q's. This is my first diesel, and have put on 62k miles since I bought it w no troubles. It sees alot of towing, with a 9k load, up the grade and on flats here in So Cal. I'm heading up to Salem, OR next month to tow down a 11k load...

My truck-

98. 5 3500 quad cab, LB, Dually 4x4. 112k. Right now I'm having an error code that says bad injector pump. Someone said maybe it's the lift pump. I want to put the FASS on first to see if code clears, and I just purchased the blue chip vp 44 tester... Will the FASS increase any chance of a # 6 melt down?

How can one avoid eng blows the best they can?

Also, I'm going to install EGT, Boost , trans and fuel pressure gauges before I leave. What ballpark should each gauge be reading towing flat, towing up grades?

Should I install mechanical or electrical gauges?

When the eng does blow, what price range for a good rebuild, me doing most of the labor?

I bought this truck because Cummins engs are supposed to last 2, 3 ,400k before rebuilding... . Is this false? Don't get me wrong, I would never go back to gas. . The Cummins eng, dually 4x4 SLT Laramie combo simply rocks!

Thanks in advance for any compiled advice in regards to this post and my specific q's!!!

Thanks!

Mike

 

[JRodgers]

Mike, dont freak. You should be fine with what you have. If you are going to add gauges, a good idea, go with whatever you like the best. The ISSPRO and DiProcol guages are good, so are autometer, but dont look as good. Electrical or mechanical is ok. I like my ISSPRO gauges a lot.



If you do a rebuild, figure on spending between $1000 and $2500 for parts if you do all the work. Again, it depends on what is broke and how cheap you can find parts. If you suspect the lift pump or injection pump get it sorted out now, as it will only cost you more in the long run. The FASS or Preporator is a good investment. I have installed both and personally prefer the preporator as it has better design and construction. Also it removes air from the fuel better, which will give better performance.

 

[hammersley]

Isn't adding a bigger Turbo a huge help?

When one adds fuel via boxes and sticks - isn't the addition of a larger turbo a huge advantage in cooling the EGT's as well as better performance?

 

[Cliffman]

MBlackburn, get that fuel pressure checked NOW!! I didn't see any thing in your profile that would indicate added HP so you shouldn't have anything to worry about. The cost of an engine rebuild is all over the board. Just depends on how far you want to go with it. I'm porting and ringing the head and installing a larger cam.

 

[Cliffman]

Okay guys, engine is out and the block is stripped down. It's on it's way to the machine shop to get the scuffed clyinder wall bored out.



Question: How do you guys think I should proceed. .



1) bore out just the scuffed cylinder wall to 20 over and call it good.

2) Bore out all the cylinder walls for ballance.

3) Sleave it and install a standard size piston.

 

[JSandusky]

I really don't know that much about Diesel engines, but I know a little about gasoline engines. In gas engines you would never want a bigger piston then the rest. In fact for a well balanced smooth engine, you want all the pistons to weigh actually the same and be the same size.



The weight of the piston will probably be heavier, although it might have enough material avaliable to be able to balance it out.



It will also produce slightly higher power levels, due to slightly more cubic inch's.



If it was me, I would bore all cylinders and put 6 new pistons in or I would have that one cylinder re-sleved and put 1 new stock sized piston in.



I would probably choose the bore all cylinders and 6 new oversized pistons. Have your crank and rods checked for wear and turned if necessary. Put new bearings in (rod and mains). Make sure the head you put back on is in good shape and valves aren't worn and seal good. You'll have a new engine!

 

[willyslover]

"If it was me, I would bore all cylinders and put 6 new pistons in or I would have that one cylinder re-sleved and put 1 new stock sized piston in. "



I agree with the above statment... . prefer the bore all 6 option...

and see if Cummins has a 20 over head gasket now... BTW don't forget about Denny Hao

 

[Cliffman]

Talked to Cummings West tech and he said they bore 20 over on 1 cylinder all the time, throw in a 20 over piston and call it good. Pistons are 150. 00 each. I really don't want to invest another 750. 00 if I don't have too. :{.