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Burnt electrical connector

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ARigutto

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I recently took my 2003 Ram 2500 to get a new sound system and auto start installed. While my truck was at the shop they called me and said they wouldn’t put in the auto start because some wired had been hacked into and caused a melted connector. I assume for liability reason they didn’t want to touch it which makes perfect sense but now I am left with what is the best way to fix it and how do I prevent it from happening again? I tried pulling the connector out to get some more pictures today but with were I currently live I don’t have much space to work.

I did a little bit of looking online and it seems like the wires that are “repaired” control the blower motor and constant power but I am not sure. It would make some sense though because yesterday I blew the 40A fuse for the blower. As I was exploring I found that one of the burnt wires was loose and just pulled out of the connector which could have caused extra heat. Obviously someone has been into the wiring before because I found mismatched and different sized wire connected together behind the headlight switch and a lot of my gauge cluster barely works and it is broken.

Where would be the best place to get a wiring diagram for my truck? I tried the dealer and they told me they didn’t even have it.

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Here here! Mine was melted to, actually pretty common in our trucks.

I replaced mine, but it would be smart to use a high-amp relay on that circuit so that the power doesn't run through the switch unit. Haven't had the time then to do so.
 
Here here! Mine was melted to, actually pretty common in our trucks.

I replaced mine, but it would be smart to use a high-amp relay on that circuit so that the power doesn't run through the switch unit. Haven't had the time then to do so.
Where did you get the replacement part? What does all of that control? How big of a relay would you recommend?
 
If you want a replacement connector, I have my old '03 sitting in my barn. It's too rusty to mess with the other big issues, so it's just sitting until I cut it up. I cut out and sent a power window connector to another guy already.
 
I got two connector pins from my car electrician.

I'd use one of these relay.
EHDIS 2 Packs Car Relay with Harness Truck Motor Heavy Duty 5-Pin 80A 12V Relay On/Off Normally Open SPDT Relay Socket Plug 5 Wire Automotive Relay JD2912-1Z-12VDC 80A 14VDC Amazon product ASIN B01KFKEHMG
Good to switch a 90amp load and the included pigtail makes install a breeze.

Make sure that in your case the actual switch (electric part of the ign. Switch) is in good shape. Mine was also molten to the ground, that I replaced entirely.
 
By the way, since my (incomplete) repair i try to have the Fan switched off at start up, i think it helps.

From what I've investigated, it is the ignition switch that causes the problem, it seems the contacts in there are to small and heat up that whole connector board inside.
So much that the heat reaches the crimp connectors and heat them up su they lose their tension and start to heat themselves. Maybe a weird theory but the best I came up with.
 
Replace the blower motor, period. It's likely drawing too much current. Dodge makes a replacement harness for the HVAC and also just a motor connector repair kit. You need to check the blower motor resistor for failing wires at the connector as well as for a cracked blower motor resistor. Dodge updated the design of the resistor. If the resistor connector has wire damage you will need the entire harness not just the repair kit.

Then replace the ignition switch and the connector that's melted. The relay off the ignition switch rather than full blower motor current going through it is a good idea many have done.
 
I got two connector pins from my car electrician.

I'd use one of these relay.
EHDIS 2 Packs Car Relay with Harness Truck Motor Heavy Duty 5-Pin 80A 12V Relay On/Off Normally Open SPDT Relay Socket Plug 5 Wire Automotive Relay JD2912-1Z-12VDC 80A 14VDC Amazon product ASIN B01KFKEHMG
Good to switch a 90amp load and the included pigtail makes install a breeze.

Make sure that in your case the actual switch (electric part of the ign. Switch) is in good shape. Mine was also molten to the ground, that I replaced entirely.
I have a feeling mine will be the same way or I will change it anyway since I am already there. Luckily it seems like Autozone has the connector repair kit and ignition switch in stock.
 
Replace the blower motor, period. It's likely drawing too much current. Dodge makes a replacement harness for the HVAC and also just a motor connector repair kit. You need to check the blower motor resistor for failing wires at the connector as well as for a cracked blower motor resistor. Dodge updated the design of the resistor. If the resistor connector has wire damage you will need the entire harness not just the repair kit.

Then replace the ignition switch and the connector that's melted. The relay off the ignition switch rather than full blower motor current going through it is a good idea many have done.
I am going to replace the resistor and blower because I can tell the fan has been struggling. The wires going into the connector for the blower are really loose and the resistor wires don't look good either.

Does Genos have the updated resistor and would you recommend getting the resistor and blower from there? Where should I get the wiring harness from?
 
I would get the wiring harness used from @bighammer as it was offered above. Otherwise Mopar wholesale parts. This also includes getting a MOPAR blower motor as the knock-off parts store motors tend to be noisy: changes to the design to make em cheaper than OEM. The clicking of the cheap knock-off motor turning over on low speed gets old real quick on a long drive.

It's not clear: there are two parts from the fan motor wire harness. 1) Complete harness with resistor and motor connectors (among many others) to the plug behind the HVAC box somewhere. 2) Repair kit that only has the two blower motor connectors and a length of wire.

There is an additional harness part for the ignition switch that melted.
 
I would get the wiring harness used from @bighammer as it was offered above. Otherwise Mopar wholesale parts. This also includes getting a MOPAR blower motor as the knock-off parts store motors tend to be noisy: changes to the design to make em cheaper than OEM. The clicking of the cheap knock-off motor turning over on low speed gets old real quick on a long drive.

It's not clear: there are two parts from the fan motor wire harness. 1) Complete harness with resistor and motor connectors (among many others) to the plug behind the HVAC box somewhere. 2) Repair kit that only has the two blower motor connectors and a length of wire.

There is an additional harness part for the ignition switch that melted.
Today I went on a drive and the blower ran for about 30-40 minutes and when I got back I left everything running and decided to touch the blower, resistor, and the wires running to both. Everything was uncomfortably hot and i traced the wires back as far as I could and they stayed warm until they got behind the dash. I am going to try a limit my use of the blower which is pretty hard here once the sun comes out but I will try best. I am going to go the dodge dealer tomorrow and see what parts they have available.
 
Have you replaced the blower as Tuesdak suggested? Hot wiring usually means high current.
No I am getting ready to order the blower and resistor through genos. I don't want to put them in until I get the connectors replaced because the wires are starting to pull out.
 
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