"Burping" the radiator

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Well... . That's the best way I could find to refill the radiator after changing coolant!!!

Is there a better way to make sure the system is full and all the air has been purged out of the system...

I think the "Overflow" container plays an important role in this...

I found that if I get the engine hot. . then CAREFULLY crack the radiator cap. . that the trapped air will be pushed into the resevoir...

Then when the cap is re-tightened and the radiator cools it will "Suck" coolant from the resivoir to top off the level. .

I repeated this 3-4 times already and I'm still getting air to blow out, into the resevoir

I've gotten almost another GALLON to go into the radiator after refilling with fresh coolant from the radiator cap side...

When the block and radiator are drained there are little nooks and crannies that trap air in the system...

I first noticed that I was running a little hot on the way to work after changing coolant.
Then I noticed that the overflow tank had no coolant in the passageway that goes into the radiator...

When I cracked the radiator cap I saw that the level of coolant was low...
(it was full when I refilled)

After the coolant circulated , the trapped air must have found it's way to the highest point in the radiator

I just changed oil. . and there was no trace of water in it...
Also the tailpipe shows nothing... so the coolant isn't leaking places it's not supposed to be. .

Is the Burping Method the best for "topping off" the coolant level???

Larry

 

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Larry
The way I always changed coolant, I waited for the truck to cool off completely. Then I drained the system and flushed it. As far as topping it off, I fill radiator and start (cold) motor with the radiator cap off. Let it run 5-10 min to circulate, turn off motor and retop. Just my $0. 02

 

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I'm kinda partial to the Prestone (or other brand) "flush-N-Fill" kit-- plastic "T" fittings for various size heater hoses, clamps, one-way valve for connection to house-hose---backflushes whole system(regardless of thermostat position) and also eliminates most of those air bubbles ahead of time----find it on an "impulse" hook near the antifreeze for a couple of bucks. even have install and use instructions printed right on the cardboard... at end of the procedure printed, i deliberately overfill the burp tank,( w/100% antifreeze) and then check it a few open-close cycles later---the air bubbles don't last too long that way, and fewer to begin with---rich

 

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Cummins recommends that you just run and warm up the engine with the cap off and this will clear the air. Had the same problem with my 98 and added coolant for a week looking for leaks the whole time before I called them.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, EGT/Boost Gauges, Running Boards, K&N,
Real Backup Lights

 

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Rich

Have you thought of trying this burping technique on your lava lamp?

 

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no,doc, i think i'll stick it in the oven @ 180F for a few hours and see what happens... lamp has no burptank

 

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The Diesel's have a one way check valve on the engine near the thermostat to bleed the sytem of air when filling with coolant. The engine has to be shut down while filling with coolant.
Jerry_the_King procedure is the one I always used on my vehilces,and is the suggested way in shop manual.

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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)