Competition Busy weekend, Twins are in...finally

[RyanB]

I like how you have the 3rd gen side mirrors on there. (well, 01 or 02-ish and later)

They are actually 02-and down mirrors. They are almost a direct bolt on with only a few minor mods to make them work but everyone asks how I did it.

 

[TurboTweaker]

coming from a fabricator i know how hard it is to make that piece in the brake, ive made my fair share of them. the fab work on the twins is awsome. some day soon i will be building my own set and tig welding everything once again top notch work



The Fat Kid

Andy

 

[RyanB]

coming from a fabricator i know how hard it is to make that piece in the brake, ive made my fair share of them. the fab work on the twins is awsome. some day soon i will be building my own set and tig welding everything once again top notch work



The Fat Kid

Andy

Thanks... That was all mig welded. I was going to Tig it but I screwed up and forgot to get tungston on the friday and seeing I was welding all weekend and nothing was open I had to just mig it... oh well, hot pipe is getting wrapped anyway so it doesn't have to look pretty!

 

[WUnderwood]

wow, nice truck!

 

[RyanB]

Another weekend gone, and more work done! This weekend it was working on the other side of the engine (intake side). I have decided to delete the intercooler form my setup and instead of just going right from the small charger, over the valve covers and into the head I decided to make a length of pipe running down infront of the motor and then back up towards the head in the stock manor. I am injecting water close to the chargers and the length of pipe will hopefully let the air/water cool enough before going into the head. After talking to a bunch of people about the intake and not wanting to chop off the side of the head and make a custom plenum(yet anyway) I decided to make two entery points in the #2 cylinder position and #5. Similar to that of... I had to say it Banks Twin intake setup... mine isn't for improved air flow but to get a more even charge of air to each cylinder or so I am hoping. I am also running a Chawyln air shut off that is plumbed into the length of pipe infront of the engine with pop off valves just incase the valve closes at full boost.



Anyway, here current pics. I still have to final weld some of the joints and then sand everything smooth so I apologise if the job doesn't look as nice as the charger setup... yet!



Ryan

 

[Graphic man]

looks good Ryan!!! Oo.

 

[BigBadDodge]

Looks great, but did you notice somebody stole your pump



BBD

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I must have missed something... what did you make on the brake?

 

[GOT-Torque]

Lookin' good...



Now, I'm just thinking out loud so take no offense, but the intake tubing seems to be pretty long coming off the head with no rubber boot anywhere? With the vibration levels of the mighty cummins, thats alot of leverage on the welds at the head or the gasket under the intake plate. Does the tube run solid all the way to the charger on the other side? If so, then it's probably not so much an issue I guess as the whole assembly would move with the engine.



I like the idea of the pop off valves prior to the shutoff valve (haven't seen that before), that would help the spinny things last longer.

 

[RyanB]

Lookin' good...



Now, I'm just thinking out loud so take no offense, but the intake tubing seems to be pretty long coming off the head with no rubber boot anywhere? With the vibration levels of the mighty cummins, thats alot of leverage on the welds at the head or the gasket under the intake plate. Does the tube run solid all the way to the charger on the other side? If so, then it's probably not so much an issue I guess as the whole assembly would move with the engine.



I like the idea of the pop off valves prior to the shutoff valve (haven't seen that before), that would help the spinny things last longer.

I have taken that into consideration and its actually not that big of a piece but I do have one boot on it (right off the small charger) The pipe its self is in two pieces and bolts together at the valve. I am going to see how it works before thinking about putting another boot on it unless you all think I really should.



Ryan

 

[JFlagg]

I would think about putting a bracket/brace(rubber mounted of course) between the boot at the turbo and add another boot at the top between the split and the last 90* Maybe not so much for vibration, though it would help, but incase you needed to work on you truck you would have the option to remove a section instead of the whole deal. Other than than it looks great! Tha brace I'm thinking about might look like a swaybar mount? Or those little tabs to hold brake lines and such with... .

 

[RyanB]

I would think about putting a bracket/brace(rubber mounted of course) between the boot at the turbo and add another boot at the top between the split and the last 90* Maybe not so much for vibration, though it would help, but incase you needed to work on you truck you would have the option to remove a section instead of the whole deal. Other than than it looks great! Tha brace I'm thinking about might look like a swaybar mount? Or those little tabs to hold brake lines and such with... .

Thanks for the idea's. It is actually in a few pieces though. If you look in the last pic just under the rad hose you will see the joint where the Air-Kill goes. Right now I just have a wood block in there for the spacer (my air kill is on the way to me right now) and then the other joint is over by the turbo and that is where the boot goes. I am thinking I will actually make a brace/mount that bolts to the the AC compressor bracket seeing I don't have AC. I am also atatching another bracket to it for my water pump so that should work well. Then there won't be any flexing.



I want as few boots as possible on the system because thats one less think to worry about blowing appart.



Ryan

 

[GOT-Torque]

Where did you get your air shutoff device from? Pics? Price?



Thanks!

 

[RyanB]

Where did you get your air shutoff device from? Pics? Price?



Thanks!

It is a Chwalyn Valve and I got it thru Stewart & Stevens in Broussard, Louisiana. BBD (Scott Vorhess) actually has them as a sponsor so mention his name if you call them! The # is (337) 837-9001. The valve is NOT cheap and is just over $500 but this is the 2nd one we have used and they work great. I was having problems for space in my truck and didn't want to run a standard guilotine with having to run the two sets of cables. This valve takes up hardly any room and can go in the 3" tube on the way up to the engine. They seem to shut the engine down faster and a really nice because you can wire up a switch in the cab and then wire a break-away switch on the bumper and everything is very clean and tidy.



I will post pics of the valve in a few days and how I set mine up.



RyanB

 

[RyanB]

looks good Ryan!!! Oo.

Hey Scott- Just sent you a PM!

 

[BigBadDodge]

Did somebody say Chalwyn Valve :-laf



#ad




BBD

 

[RyanB]

Update- Well, its been over a week since my last post and there has been some progress. I now have the whole intake system cleaned and painted. I have my pump finally back on(dual feed), my new valve covers on (built in breathers), my twins are now mounted for the last time (missing a few hose clamps but other than that they are good to go, and most of my water injection lines are hooked up. I have attached a few pics.



RyanB

 

[RyanB]

And here are just a few more. The turbo's and also the only good pic I will probably get of my Water pump (coolant) it is made by EMP Stewart and flows 55pgm and is guarantee'd for 10,000 hours pump life. It was just a little cheaper than the electric pump that bolts to the stock location. What I did seeing I am still running an ALT and Belt I gutted the stock pump just leaving a bare shaft on the inner side so I can still run the pulley... hopefully it works alright!



Ryan

 

[WUnderwood]

how many water nozzles are you using?

 

[AMassaro]

Looks killer... man that's alot of braided stainless... . :-laf