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Butt Low...

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Right now my truck has a leveling kit, bascially a 2" lift in the front, I think Daystar. It was on the truck when I bought it.



Well, I find that the front of the truck sits higher than the back. Giving it the "butt low" look like alot of Suburbans and Cherokees get from saggy rear springs. I measured the wheel wells, the front is about an inch lower, but if I park on level ground and look at the bedrails, it seems like the back is squatting. Maybe it's just me?



I was thinking of lowering the front. Would a 315/75/16 fit without the leveling kit? Or maybe just 1" lift... haven't been able to find one though. Could be saggy rear springs??



Could someone do a measurement for me? From the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender on both the front and rear?
 
I have the samething, my 315s rub now when out wheelin' so I don't think they will fit with 1in lift even if you could find one.
 
Right now the tires rub the fenderwheel towards teh cab a bit. There's plenty of room up top and in teh front though. By lowering it, I would push the axle forward a bit..... anyone run 315s with no lift??



I suppose I could lift the back a bit more, but I really don't want to lift the truck anymore. I think ideal would be finding just a 1" lift for the front.
 
I tried to get 315s on my truck without a lift and the wheels wouldn't even slide on the studs. I put a 2" leveling kit on and the tires will rub if I turn the wheels all the way one direction or the other. I am now thinking about going to a 3" front spacer and perhaps an add-a-leaf on the rear. With my shell on I have a low butt too! :-laf
 
Ok, the other option would be to lift the back a bit, like 1" or so. Would be easy with a 1" block, but there's a huge factory block already there!.



Any ideas??
 
This is what I am thinking about. Seems like a decent price. I also saw that you can just get rear blocks from Tuff Country for pretty cheap. I don't know how big the ones we have are but they have up to 5. 5" rear blocks.
 
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Nate said:
Well, I find that the front of the truck sits higher than the back. Giving it the "butt low" look like alot of Suburbans and Cherokees get from saggy rear springs.



Your truck is just going for that So-Cal look. Seems like every other truck in or around LA looks like that.
 
Haha it's funny you mention that. One day, when I was living in the dorms on base a few years ago, a Ranger with the front lifted about 6" and back stock height pulled into the parking lot. I figured he had run out of time to lift the back, was working at the Hobby Shop and just drove it back to the dorms. When I asked him when he was going to finish the lift, he got all ****** at me. I guess it was supposed to be like that. OK... whatever floats your boat I suppose!
 
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I was thinking about putting an add a leaf in. The problem with those is normally then make the leaf pack stiffer... IMO the rear is already stiff enough. It might be my only choice though.



I believe the factory block is 6". It might be 4" though. I haven't actually measured it. Either way, I'd rather not stack 2 blocks together. It's bad enough there is 1 block there. I don't understand why Dodge doesn't make a leaf pack for the correct height? I think it's a 2wd leaf pack and the blocks are added for the 4x4 height.
 
Smokin_Monster said:
What in the heck is the point of that? Is it cool to look half done nowdays? Do they not realize it looks dumb? :confused: :rolleyes:

It's the poor man's desert racer. Really look stupid. I've seen some around here where they lift the front, take off the front bumper, put a nerf bar on the front, and think they are ready for the baja 1000. A real side splitter was a Ranger where they had actually cut the bed floor out of the box (to loose weight I'm sure). :-laf
 
Nate:

Consider removing the rear springs and having about 1" to 1. 5" of arc put into them (I would recommend to go with 1. 5"). Prior to re-installation, change out the bushings to energy suspension as well.

This should take care of all the concerns and having done quite a few of these it is also the cheapest, and the least labor intensive.

Just my experiance. :)



H. P.



ps, new here and loving it! :D
 
Hmm I didn't think of that.



I've heard the rearching springs don't stay re arched very long??



I measured today and the stock blocks are about 4. 25"
 
If it was me I wouldnt re-arc 8 year old leaf springs. You can buy whole now rear leaf packs for around $300 a pair with the desired height you want.
 
Re-Arcing

I have a 98 12v QC 4X4 that I have installed a 5" lift on. I had 2. 5" of arc put into the rear leaf springs and 2. 75" into the overlaods then machined about 2. 2 degrees of taper into the stock blocks to correct the pinion angle.



The arcing has not settled out or changed in 2 1/2 years and the truck hauls gravel, tows a 30' - 8000lb rv, various boats and occassionally pulls an 11,000lb race car trailer.



Total cost of re-arcing and the poly bushings was less than $200. 00 CND.



I have done re-arcing in 7 of my past 4X4 vehicles (I hate having huge blocks for lifts causing spring wrap) and never had a settling issue. Most of the trucks I drove for 5+years and some were 12 - 15 years old when re-arced.

Again, this has just been my experiance. :)



Harry
 
Nate said:
... a Ranger with the front lifted about 6" and back stock height pulled into the parking lot. I figured he had run out of time to lift the back, ...

You mean that Aqua Pearl Dodge I saw driving around Conway, SC last May was SUPPOSED to look like that?! :rolleyes: :--)
 
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