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Buying a new rig for Camper/Hauler

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5th Wheel Hubs

Based on a suggestion from a Turbo Diesel Member, I'm moving this question to this forum. I'm still undecided on what I want for a truck to haul a Host Mammoth slide in camper plus pull a enclosed trailer. I have to confess that I currently own a 2017 F350 DRW that I spec'ed and built for towing a 5th wheel. However due to taxes and fees imposed by the State of Maine on travel trailers and the realization that we just don't need that much space, we have decides to go with the biggest slide-in we can get.
The problem is the weight of the camper dry is 4453 lbs and the trailer tongue weight will be around 800 lbs, that alone not counting passengers, fuel, water, and cargo I will be several hundred pounds over GVWR 14000 lbs. Plus I still need to haul my gooseneck trailer with tractor, about 20,000 lbs., I don't haul trailer loads very far so not looking for over the road towing capability.
So my thought process says go big and "legal" or stay home. I'm looking at the 2019 Ram 5500 Chassis Cab, 6.7, crew. Key points are good gross weight 19,000 lbs while still maintaining MPG. I like the comfort features but don't need all the bells and whistles
What I'm looking for is some guidance on building out a hauler, what gears, and weight limit and so on. Also if there is a better forum dedicated to this topic.

This is what I'm thinking:
- 6.7 liter
- AISIN Heavy-Duty 6-Speed
- GVW Rating - 19,000 Pounds
- 4.44 Axle Ratio
- Dual Alternators Rated at 440-Amps
- 52 and 22-Gallon Dual Fuel Tanks
- Heavy-Duty Front Suspension Group
- Trailer Brake Control
 
I think you're right on the money with your choice. There is a post where a TDR member purchased a 2018 5500 with a flat bed to haul that same camper.

Honestly, I'm looking at doing the same thing with mine, only I likely need to swap my CM ER bed for a lower profile flat bed. Haven't sold mama on downsizing from DRV MS to a slide in camper, but working on it.

Good Luck and pls keep us posted.

Thanks for the post.

Ron
 
Girret, while waiting for more responses, if you go to the C&C area there are a few very informative threads started by Wiredawg, and one by Dieselnut59, on their C&C decisions and purchases. I have learned a lot from many members around here.

As to gearing, Max Tow gets you 4.88s, or you can opt to go 4.44. I was at a Maverik station the other day and there was a roper with a 5500 who pulls a 4 horse gooseneck with living quarters. He said he was getting 8 mpg when loaded up.
 
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Girret, while waiting for more responses, if you go to the C&C area there are a few very informative threads started by Wiredawg, and one by Dieselnut59, on their C&C decisions and purchases. I have learned a lot from many members around here.

As to gearing, Max Tow gets you 4.88s, or you can opt to go 4.44. I was at a Maverik station the other day and there was a roper with a 5500 who pulls a 4 horse gooseneck with living quarters. He said he was getting 8 mpg when loaded up.

Do you know if the roper was running 4.88s or 4.44? I was to do the best I can to keep the MPG up. I'm guessing that 90% of the time I'll be running with a 6000 lbs Camper/cargo load and 8000 lbs trailer. that is why I was looking at the 4.44s. The only time I'll be pulling anything over 10,000 lbs is my gooseneck with tractor and implements locally.
 
Do you know if the roper was running 4.88s or 4.44? I was to do the best I can to keep the MPG up. I'm guessing that 90% of the time I'll be running with a 6000 lbs Camper/cargo load and 8000 lbs trailer. that is why I was looking at the 4.44s. The only time I'll be pulling anything over 10,000 lbs is my gooseneck with tractor and implements locally.
I don't know, because he didn't know. I would GUESS that it had 4.88s. I was asking him all kinds of questions, and he was getting a bit annoyed so I just thanked him, and left. He said he had a 3500 Duramax, and it just couldn't handle the trailer at all. He was very clear on that.
 
glrret,
DieselNut59 likely has exactly the setup you want. I'd jump over there on his thread ping him. Very nice setup and he is going to tow a new Rubicon with it. You'd need to get down to brass tacks to figure out the 800Lb bumper hitch weight with the extension you will need with the camper overhang.
Check this out:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=xCUhplXW&id=2526360AB98341F30D3F136CFE948C5D40EF579D&thid=OIP.xCUhplXWdYS7ibSWtYNvwwHaFj&mediaurl=http://classychassistrucks.com/oldwebsite/fullimages/Classy_Chassis_Hauler_Bed_slide_in_uni_01_f.jpg&exph=600&expw=800&q=ram+5500+camper+conversion&simid=608027699671533010&selectedIndex=43&ajaxhist=0

This one is way over the top, but so cool!
http://www.powerhousecoach.com/Pickup Truck Campers.html

Sounds like you might be starting to line up a bulls eye on your solution.

Looking forward to tracking your progress working this out.

Cheers, Ron
 
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I carry At least 6,600# on my signature truck. Forget the 14k and look at axle weights.

I understand where and why you feel that is okay, But that may be within the axle weight but not within the trucks legal weight class. And weight class is what the insurance companies look at in the event of an accident. I would much rather be on the safe side to avoid financial liability.
 
I understand where and why you feel that is okay, But that may be within the axle weight but not within the trucks legal weight class. And weight class is what the insurance companies look at in the event of an accident. I would much rather be on the safe side to avoid financial liability.

Brother glrret,
That's exactly why I traded a paid for, fully capable 2009 Ram 4500 rated at only 26KLbs GCWR. Insurance companies and lawyers (read as civil lawsuit) look at GVWR and GCWR numbers. There's plenty of examples on the internet and the TV lawyer adds also include RVs. And for me, 2017 Ram towing guide rated 5500 w/4.88s at 38.5KLb GCWR....the 4.10 and 4.44 trucks have 26KLb GCWR. My truck has 19K GVWR versus 3500 P/U 14KLb GVWR. No nocking the P/Us, but the C&Cs excel at GVWR and have the same GCWR as the P/Us. I carry another 1,500Lbs in fuel and tools on my truck on top of the 5Klb pin weight and still have 2,400Lbs capacity on the truck. Nothing is exceeded on axles, tires, or any other rating. And, I like the 14ply G 14 ply rated tires.

So, I'm tracking with you brother!

Brother Cummins12V98,
your truck is exactly suited for what you and most pulling heavy RVs need, but there are a few folks who need/want more carrying capacity ON the truck. You never mentioned if you carry extra fuel on yours to supplement the 31 or 32 gal tank on your truck. You have to be close or a little over on your rear axle weight. Mine has 52 gal pri tank, 60 gal aux tank and 9 gal DEF tank. But, as I mentioned, your truck is a good setup and works for you and most others.

Cheers,

Ron
 
I'm moving this question to this forum.
I'm still undecided on what I want for a truck to haul a Host Mammoth slide in camper plus pull a enclosed trailer.
The problem is the weight of the camper dry is 4453 lbs

I just googled and read some reviews about the Host Mammoth 11.6, the above stated dry weight seems like a bad joke.
I read about "ready to go" weights from 6000-7000lbs - that box is a real Mammoth.
 
I just googled and read some reviews about the Host Mammoth 11.6, the above stated dry weight seems like a bad joke.
I read about "ready to go" weights from 6000-7000lbs - that box is a real Mammoth.

And that is why I'm considering a 5500 C&C. You add the "ready to go" weight and another 800 lbs tongue weight and my current F350 DRW just isn't going to do.
 
I understand where and why you feel that is okay, But that may be within the axle weight but not within the trucks legal weight class. And weight class is what the insurance companies look at in the event of an accident. I would much rather be on the safe side to avoid financial liability.


OK, I keep hearing this. So please post ONE incident. As long as you are licensed to carry your load you are golden. I am WELL within my tires load carrying capacity. I am at or under my SAE axle weights, I am under my combined weights.

Please show me where it states the 14k GVWR has any "legal" standing???

Answer this how can I have a SAE RAWR of 9,750# load to that and NOT add a single pound to my factory 5,250 front axle weight and NOT be over GVWR.

Do what you want but there is no LEGAL reason to follow the 14k.
 
So my thought process says go big and "legal" or stay home.

I suggest you may step back, again, and look at some other lighter truck campers. Visit showrooms and spend a few days going through them. If you already made the decision it is correct to select a camper than a truck that can haul it. Weight savings for 2wd and gas engines can be on the table. (Not likely where you are.)

Each slide adds massive weight to the camper. Are you looking at a 2 or 3 slide camper?

Below is a guide for truck camper weights and they don't touch Host Mammoth. The guide itself takes you from the marketing (not as shipped) weight sticker that the truck camper has and then "Just Add Water". Propane. Batteries. Your stuff. Ask any outfit selling Truck Campers for a photo of this as shipped weight sticker that is in the camper somewhere, usually in a cabinet or on a back of a cabinet door. The RV weight BS stops when you have that as a starting point and then you have to "Just Add Water" + other stuff listed.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/buyers-guide/hard-side/
 
OK, I keep hearing this. So please post ONE incident. As long as you are licensed to carry your load you are golden. I am WELL within my tires load carrying capacity. I am at or under my SAE axle weights, I am under my combined weights.

Please show me where it states the 14k GVWR has any "legal" standing???

Answer this how can I have a SAE RAWR of 9,750# load to that and NOT add a single pound to my factory 5,250 front axle weight and NOT be over GVWR.

Do what you want but there is no LEGAL reason to follow the 14k.

Cummins12V98, I think you misunderstood my point. I am not saying you are over weight or if you are that it is bad. All I said was that with the rig I plan to run I need a larger truck, this topic has nothing to do with your truck or load, this is about mine and my needs. So sorry if I stepped on toes, it was not intentional.
 
My toes are fine. I was simply stating my truck would handle ALL your needs YOU posted above with zero issue. I was only responding to what you stated as far as Insurance/liability.


I suggest you add a set of bags to your Ford and give it a try.
 
My toes are fine. I was simply stating my truck would handle ALL your needs YOU posted above with zero issue. I was only responding to what you stated as far as Insurance/liability.


I suggest you add a set of bags to your Ford and give it a try.

Here are my trucks axle ratings Front 5,990 lbs, Rear 9,900 lbs. My GVWR: 14,000 lbs, total weight based on axle capacity 15,890 lbs, and that is with a perfectly balanced load. My truck weight is 8,710 lbs, leaving me 7,180 lbs. Figuring load: truck fuel/DEF 495 lbs, 2 passengers 325 lbs, dry camper 4,552 lbs, water 595 lbs, 2*30 lbs gas tanks 58 lbs, miscellaneous cargo (food, tools, clothes, est) 750 lbs, tow trailer tongue weight up to 1,000 lbs = 7705 lbs ( I feel this is being very conservative) for a grand total of 16,415 lbs. So that is 595 lbs over max axle rating on a perfectly balanced load plus 2,485 lbs over the DOT GVWR of 14,000 lbs. I have done the math and considered my options. I have always been one to opt for a safe buffer on vehicle loads which equates to an increased margin of safety.

For you and many other people this would be a safe load (and that is your choice), for me and my family it is not. I have chosen the camper I want to buy and now I'm simply spec-ing out a truck that I will feel safe (for me and my family) carrying and towing the load.

Thank you for your opinion and air bag suggestion.

Sorry if you do not agree but that is why we each have the right to make our own choices.
 
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