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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Buying an 02

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering Truck moves shift lever

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Syn oil to dino oil???

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I don't have good luck with the search on this forum, but I have found some stuff. I'm one of those weird 1st gen owners, so I have an idea but a little advice from you guys would be great. Lookin for 02 6 speed HO around 70000ish. Front ball joints I know, IP (is there any thing specific to look for), fluids... what else? Thanks!
 
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? You can hook this up to the schrader valve on the IP. See what it is reading at idle and then through the entire power band. Don't want to see it get below 10 psi.



also keep the 1st gen.
 
Yeah, got a fuel pressure gauge, good to know, thanks. I was also told that trucks sold in CA had smaller injectors:confused:is this true? If so did it apply to 02, and if so is there a way to tell (by vin maybe) pickins of these trucks are a little slim so I will probably fly out west.



I HOPE to keep the 92. We just moved into a condo... and man do I get strange looks when I'm working on it:eek:. But being able to part the sea of yuppie assault vehicles (suv's) around here, without even having to use turn signals, is priceless:-laf
 
A few things I wish I knew...

Here's a few things I wish I knew:



1 Check that the transmission shifts well from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 3rd. If not... could be bad transmission fluid or synchos... and transmission parts are hard to come by.



2 The steering is an obvious problem. Does it have an aftermarket track bar or any other aftermarket steering components? Has the suspension been abused? Be HONEST with your assesment on this! If you're not, you WILL pay for it!



3 Fuel pressure is another biggie as stated. If you can check the pressure, that is great but pressure at the lift pump can be misleading as to the fuel system status. They could've replaced the lift pump to mask a failing injector pump. If you can, take a code reader or stop into an auto parts store on the test drive and have them read the codes real quick. Could be empty but could be something there and it's free. The odds are the injector pump is good if it has good pressure after the lift pump, but you won't know for sure until you do a flow test for the injector pump.



4 Check the power steering pump assembly for leaks.



5 Check that the steering doesn't effect the brakes. Check that the clutch doesn't effect the brakes either... they share the vacuum from the vacuum pump.



6 Check the hub seals behind the wheels (all 4) for oil leaks.



7 If you're really gonna get technical, you can remove the airbox cover and tube to the turbo compressor and pull or try to shake the compressor wheel with your fingers to check for play.



That's all I can think of for now... I'm sure others will chime in! Really, an 02 with decent miles @ $7k is a fair price if it is in good condition.



Good luck!
 
my 02 cents

take the truck for a drive and check the gears like others have said get the truck good and warm.

dont forget the simple stuff also

check oil, if you can look in the fuel filter canister if you can remove the fuel filter check for grit in the filter housing. I found my tank was full of gunk when I bought mine. the front of the engine is going to mucky from the crankcase breather line no biggie. check for and bombing old tap spots or cleaned areas where a box was check the clutch take off in 3rd gear and see how it holds. check the t-case for leaks. alot of these things can be a no biggie if your a mechanical person. I know alot of people like to do repairs and fluid changes on there own anyway. check the heat and a/c in the truck and how the ac/clutch is. check. codes. turn the key to on then off 3 times ending with the key in the on position without starting. read the odometer screen for codes. good idea to check hoses and all boost boots atleast a good indication on what you are getting into pending what you want to do later with the truck. any bad fuel smells how the parking brake holds if it holds on a incline. oh and check for a tdr sticker on the truck. (if you have one the truck is good) lol. :)

hope this helps probley think of more later.

good luck.



2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QC HTT 62/14 SB-FE SMARTY TST PM3 MACH 4'S, RINGED AND STUDS, AFE/2:eek: " 4"EXHAUST D/PRICOL GAUGES, FASS 150, VULCAN 1/2 DRAW-STRAW, 3/8 FUEL LINE, DSS-TRAC-BAR STEER-BOX, AIR BAGS,17'' KMC BLACK HOSS, 315/70/17 MICKTHOM MTZ'S 6" RCD LONG ARM LIFT AND DE-BADGED FOR FUEL MILEAGE. :-laf... THANKS RIP Source Automotive Performance Diesel - Home
 
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california

forget I thought all cali smog trucks had a egr system well you should be able to pull the vin I know the dealership could pull the vin and tell you what it came with from factory. the glove box should tell you the rear end gearing also.
 
I ordered my 02 because I didn't know if I would like the 03's. I wish I would have waited and got the 03. Good list above but the clutch has its own sealed system. It has nothing to do with the vacuum pump.



Jeff
 
Smell the oil and check for blow by, new oil and a clean engine may be masking problems. Blow by is easy to check at the fill tube and dip stick.
 
and my 02 cents

I have an 02 ho and think its the best truck I have ever owned. It just rolled over 100,000 and except for loosing the VP at about 40 not a single problem. Just regular Maint. and U-joints @ about 80K. I have a few minor mods and plenty of power. In the summer I run with my front drive line off and get in the low 20s MPG. An ATP quiet Kit is also worth the money. I just have the pan and valve cover covers and its nearly as quiet as a third gen with lots better mileage.





Houser

Palmer, Ak
 
Teleman-



Look up this seller on eBay. I bought my 01 from him in Feb and he is a good seller and can get about anything you want, usually a lower mileage western truck. sonorantruckanddiesel
 
O. K. I think I found a truck Oo. Carfax shows a rear end collision :eek: I didn't see anything (overspray, wrench marks on frame bolts ect. ) 2001 24v 6spd 55,000mi 4. 10 :mad: IP idles around 11-12 but drops to 7 when it's floored. Ball joints, steering front end tight, I think the block was made in mexico I didn't see any of the "5x's" on either side of the block, but random markings on L side. Trans seems good I found finding 5th a little funny but probably because I'm not use to the 6spd. Mopartech I'll send you the vin if you are still willing, thanks.



As for now I'm keeping the 92... ... ... ... .
 
There are some 03-04 out there that you can get good by on now!! take your time and get a good one. Look in some camping books some are priced below book. some have less than 50-75 on them -----BEN
 
hey did you ever send me that vin?



I would take a 5600 over a 4500 any day, every 4500 I looked at when I was looking for a truck either had syncros going out, had them replaced, or fifth gear was bad.
 
Of course you know that you will be replacing the VP44

Most don't last to 100k, usually go around 75K.



And you will need to do the Steering box brace and Trac bar conversion if you want 'rock' solid steering,



Than if 4x4 the hubs may need replace ( or converted )



And as always , ball joints. .



For around 3-4k you should have a decent truck. .



OOp's, forgot the spare Lift Pump or FASS.....

AND A must have Fuel Presssure gage. .
 
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