By Pass Filter?

[J.Davy]

Does anyone make a kit to install one of these?My truck works in a dusty enviorment.

 

[Rman]

I have an amsoil single bypass filter. A simple install, and relatively cheap. There are other kits from oilgaurd, and frantz to name a couple. On top of the turbo there is a plug (1/8 npt) pull that and you have an oil supply for a bypass. The return it however you please. I drilled and tapped my valve cover. Others have drilled the oil fill cap, and peirced the oil pan.



I've had around 40k trouble free miles on my setup. About to put my 3rd filter on.

 

[rweis]

I have a RACOR LFS-802 bypass. It is fairly large and requires planning for the physical install. I return my oil to a manufactured modified oil filler cap. I also have a tap on the oil line to the LFS-802 so I can sample and withdraw with control through a needle valve.



Bob Weis

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Check this out:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98863

 

[rweis]

Something I ran across from Lube-Tips newsletter I thought might help:



Use These Indicators for Timing Oil Changes



QUESTION: Name common ways an engine oil degrades. What is a general indicator to change the oil?



ANSWER: Oxidation, nitration, loss of additive effectiveness, change in oil viscosity, contamination by fuel or coolants, engine wear causing acid build build-up from combustion by-products.



Indicator: When the BN (Base Number) is less than half the new oil value.



Bob Weis



I did not see Gary's post as I was writing mine. HOWEVER, that Frantz filter cleans the oil / fuel (he has a Frantz on both oil & fuel) way better (very subjective) than my RACOR LFS-802 if color has anything to do with it. His oil STAYS clear, mine went too dark for OA spectrum particle size analysis in less than 5k miles. I feel pretty confident tht the RACOR is trapping way smaller than the Stratapore ever considered, but the two filters are different usage and design. However if you can live with TP as the filter element and will maintain that, I would bet that the Frantz filters way better than the other choices (including mine). I DO BELIEVE you should have a bypass filter to help keep the oil cleaner.

 

[J.Davy]

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[todt061458]

So what did you decide to go with???? and why.

 

[puebla]

The Frantz is a good filter. There are other filters out there that do not need a replaceable filtering media, wheras the Frantz bypass oil filter does.



The bypass oil filter I am refering to is the Spinner II centrifuge bypass oil filter. It filters down to 1 micron and it does not use a replaceable filter.



http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm



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Operation:

1) Dirty oil flows through hollow spindle into rotating bowl under normal oil pump pressure.



2) As oil passes through the rotating bowl, centrifugal force separates oil and solid contaminants.



3) Contaminants are deposited as a solid cake on the surface the cleanable bowl.



4) Clean oil exits through opposing, twin nozzles that power the centrifuge in excess of 6,000 rpm.



5) Clean oil returns to the crankcase from the level control base.



#ad

 

[puebla]

I'm looking for a custom oil line shop that will fab the needed oil lines for the Spinner-II. Looking for high quality work.

 

[AMassaro]

I've got the Oilguard mounted on the frame under the passenger seat. That filters down to 1 micron. This then flows into a Motorguard mounted above the exhaust manifold. This filters down to . 01microns. Return line goes to the filler cap on the valve cover.

Spinner looks nice but maybe a bit too complex. I'm sure it works well though. Any bypass filtration is better than none, imho.

 

[Buffalo]

Plenty of reading on this subject on (bobistheoilguy.com) in the "bypass" forum.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[puebla]

I've been overseas for a couple of months now, any new info on the Spinner II?

 

[GOTSOOT]

from what I know, you have to have a constant supply of AIR

 

[SmithM]

I spoke to a nice gentleman at oil-tech who distributes these units out of St. Louis. Check out http://www.oil-tech.com/spinerii.htm . If you look at the specs and drawings for the Spinner 925 unit (the smallest unit, which would be appropriate for a 4BT like mine or a 6BT), you'll see that it is a significantly simpler design than the larger units (the 936 and up) and does NOT have an air supply input. Basically the air supply is actuated by a float switch in a bowl and serves to "eject" the return oil from the unit on all units other than the model 25. This allows them to be mounted low relative to the oil sump, like on a big rig framerail. The model 25 is designed for gravity drain only, so it needs a 1" ID return line and must be mounted above the sump. When it comes down to it this makes it a perfect centrifugal filter for the B series engines... it has the ideal flow capacity (Cummins specifically recommends against anything flowing more than 1 GPM because the oil pump doesn't have the capacity to keep up with it) and is a simple design that is very durable. The float/air switch on the larger units can be a maintenance hassle.



The only thing I'm waiting to get testimonial on before purchasing one of the 25's is how well they filter (oil analysis results) specifically with regard to entrained water. From the manufacturer, these units do NOT remove free water - ie water than is not bonded or "soaked in" to a particulate in the oil. They apparently do a great job at particulates. A TP filter like a Frantz does a great job at taking out ALL the nasties, especially water... but the downside is changing the TP every 3K, plus the oil that you lose in the change. Both are great options though.

 

[Diesel Power]

amsoil bypass here