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Bypass filter with Lab proven results

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Those test results don't mean anything as only one brand of aftermarket filter was tested. Almost all bypass filter manufacturers have test results that are impressive. Real world applications are most impressive as that is what our trucks live in-the real world. Constant rpm changes, temp changes, variations in fuel to name a few. We put over 300,000 miles on 2 Ford L-8000 dump trucks without ever changing the oil. We ran Delo 400, changed factory filters once a year and bypass filter as dictated by oil tests. Engines were Cummins 8. 3 L 275 hp. engines. We saved money even with buying the bypass filter, oil tests and elements over changing oil & filters as recomended by manufacturer. What sold me was watching a bottom end come out of a Mach dump truck running the same bypass filter (500,000 miles on the motor and 482,000 miles on oil) and seeing no significant wear on the rod bearings. :cool:
 
"We put over 300,000 miles on 2 Ford L-8000 dump trucks without ever changing the oil. We ran Delo 400, changed factory filters once a year and bypass filter as dictated by oil tests. "





Bill, that just can't be possible - EVERYONE knows that only SYNTHETICS, The "A" stuff in particular, can be used in extended drain intervals... :):D :D :D



What brand/type of bypass filter was used on the above engines?



And I agree - without some decent competing comparison data, the above "test" is sorta meaningless - and an actual engine isn't required for such a test - just a recirculating oil system that pumps oil around thru the "system" endlessly is all that is needed - and probably what was used - at least no mention is made as to engine type - if any - or what oil or fluid was in use...
 
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Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q

Bill, that just can't be possible - EVERYONE knows that only SYNTHETICS, The "A" stuff in particular, can be used in extended drain intervals... :):D :D :D





Good job Gary, here we go again :-laf :-{}
 
Gary- I run the "A" oil in my pickups but we bought Delo in 55 gal drums for our heavy equipment and dumps. It works in them but they hold 5-15 gallons of oil. I don't want to start a bypass war-I use Puradyn (www.puradyn.com) filters. Difference between them and everyone else is that they have heater in filter that boils off water, fuel and anti freeze that gets in oil. Also the filter elements are treated to slowly release additives ( I don't know which ones) back into oil. Ever get diesel oil on your fingers-stains them good-not mine just wipes off. :D
 
Interesting info and pointer Bill - I only take issue with one of their claims:



"Newer engines, designed to meet strict emission regulations, generate greater amounts of soot in the oil. This soot, along with other solid contaminants, fuel, and water, cannot be effectively and completely removed by full-flow filters alone. This means, without a bypass filtration system designed to remove these contaminants, the oil will get dirty much faster — accelerating engine wear and requiring it to be changed more frequently. "



THAT is patently FALSE - most newer engines, as a direct result of emissions standards, run CLEANER and with LONGER possible oil change intervals - not LESS, as they claim - otherwise, interesting product - thanks...
 
I run the FS-2500 from Filtration Solutions Worldwide. IMHO it is a very well built product, worth every penny I paid. My Dad ran the Amsoil bypass in the past, but he has switched also.



Greg
 
Bill,



Which one of the puradyne systems are you using on your truck?

Where did you mount it?

What about the oil return line?
 
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Actually Gary, they may be talking about the newest EGR engines which do put more soot in the oil. They are wrong about the change interval thing because of the new oil standards though.
 
Could be Steve - just going on what I've seen to be true in the most recent years as far as both gas AND diesel engines are concerned - all the ones I have been in contact with run with longer oil change intervals, and the oil is substantially cleaner, longer, but you're right, none of them have/had EGR valves, either.



Shucks, the oil in my new truck is FAR cleaner at 2000 miles with NO bypass filter than the '91 was at 200 miles - I can hardly wait to see my next analysis at 6000 miles or better now that I have the Frantz bypass installed...
 
Gary-Steve's right the newer engines put out greater amounts of soot-when they took the sulfur out of the fuel the soot doesn't go out the tailpipe but in the oil. The newer oil has longer drain intervals because the oil has more additives in it to keep particles in suspension longer. That doesn't mean those particles arn't wearing out your engine. The longer they stay suspended in the oil(as opposed to building up in oil pan, oil passages,etc. ) the more chance the filter may snag them. That is why bypass filters work so well. Conventional filters get dirt up to 20 microns-most won't trap anything smaller than 50 microns. Bypass filters go down to less than 1 micron. The particles are so small instead of the engine wearing these particles actually polish metal parts. Best way to tell-check compression on an engine after breakin- then recheck after another 50,000 miles-we did-all our engines actually showed an increase in compression. This is contrary to what happens to non bypass filter engines where the compression slowly goes down. We have been running bypass filters for 15 years.

Stakeman-Depends on the year. My 96 has the filter located on the top side of the fender (in engine compartment) next to the brakes. Dirty oil line comes out top of filter housing across front of engine to filter and return oil runs over to the oil dump line from the turbo. There is a rubber hose in the line down by the oil pan connection which I spliced into. My 99 is mounted on the top of the alternator bracket between the alternator and battery. I used a 2" metal angle iron to mount to alt bracket-used the holes in the alt bracket. Oil comes from the fitting on top of factory filter and because its a 2wd I removed the oil pan drain and used an threaded L fitting in its place and plumbed into it. Puradyne sells these. I have not scoped out where I will put my filter on the 2003 I ordered but I got some time time. I don't put the filter on till I have 15,000 miles on the truck. :D
 
Bill, hope you can give us a before/after oil analysis on your truck and the bypass filter - I put the Frantz on my '02 pretty early, at 4000 miles, and had Blackstone do an analysis at that mileage - I now have a bit over 7000 miles, just today changed the TP element in the Frantz, and will probably have another analysis done at next oil change at about 10,000 miles. That's probably a bit too early for the engine to be fully broken in, though lots of RV towing has and will be involved by the next oil change - and the analysis on the non-bypass looked pretty good at 4000 miles...



But I still gotta say, THIS engine runs FAR cleaner in regards to soot than the '91 did, and even without the bypass, was 25% lower in insolubles than the '91 was WITH the bypass filter installed... The next analysis WITH the bypass on the '02 SHOULD be pretty impressive! :D
 
Gary-we always get an oil analysis from the oil before we put bypass on. This gives us a baseline to work with. With each new piece of equipment we took oil samples at different hours or miles (every 100 hrs or 5000 miles) until levels in oil samples started to climb. Thats how we set up the interval to change bypass filter element. On a 93 dodge we went 25,000 miles and finally changed element even though test was good. This was with the old high sulfur fuel-after the low sulfur came out the test showed good at 15,000 to high at 20,000 so the fuel did make a difference. Same thing with the 8. 3 liter cummins engines in our dump trucks-we had to change element 5,000 miles sooner when the fuel changed. One thing you will notice the viscosity (ability to cling to parts) increases with more miles. It peaks around 80,000 miles on the oil. Pull dipstick and oil doesn't drip off it sticks to it. Dino oil ends up with higher viscosity numbers than synthetic oil. Oh yea one oyher thing as you get more miles on engine your oil will get blacker. Ever buy a new car. First oil change and oil isn't even dirty. The oil gets dirtier faster as the engine breaks in. We even see this in our generator engines. Hey I got 10 generators and we change oil every 2 weeks. Get to see a lot of oil this way :D :eek:
 
Well, the "tweaked" pump on the '91 MIGHTA affected soot levels a little bit... :D



But the oil on the '91 always got dirty real quick - in fact, I always thought owners of newer trucks were exaggerating when they told how long their oil stayed clean after a change - guess the computerized injection control DOES affect things a bit on the newer stuff - and I normally run my Comp down at a level that actually DEfuels a bit - that probably helps reduce soot levels as well... Sorta helps counter the fact most of my non-towing use is short hop stuff into town to get the mail and such - the truck barely has a chance to warm up on those runs - bad for contaminents and such... :(
 
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