Bypass Filter?

[Murietaman]

Ammsoil has a bypass filter setup. Ive only seen it on one vehicle. Is this a valuable asset to the Cummins or just gotta have stuff?

 

[amsoilman]

Through use, Engine oils will become contaminated generally from two specific sources.



EXTERNAL sources comprise materials such as abrasive dirt, dust and water.



INTERNAL sources originate internally and are generated during the wear process and combustion by-products that blow by the piston rings.



Solid contaminants can be addressed with conventional filtration. On the other hand, water, fuel and acids are handeled by the additive chemistry of the oil itself. Filtration generally offers little assistance in those areas.



However, specialized filters that can seperate water from oil, such as the Amsoil By-pass elements, can be very beneficial. These by-pass filters will also remove smaller particles with higher efficiency.



In the SAE Test Method J1858, the efficiency of the Amsoil by-pass in the most critical filtration area of 5-20 microns, the Amsoil filter element is virtually 99. 9 % efficient. In the 3 Micron area they were 98. 6 % efficient.



These by-pass units will also allow for longer drain intervals.



So, to answer your question. Yes they are very Valuable!





Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Murietaman]

Thanks for the reply. But I was kinda wanting one from an end user rather than the Salesperson end user. Even the Chevy salesperson will tell me how good Chevys are.

 

[JCyrbok]

Amsoil by pass

I have the single by pass on my truck and have about 10K on it. There is about 12k on the oil. I switched to the single due to noise and low pressure with the dual by pass. I use Amsoil 15W40HDD.



I sample every 5k and have had two good samples return recommended for continued use.



I feel it is a valuable asset to my Cummins. I quess the only way that you could determine if it is justified for you would to be determine what advantages you would want the By Pass for? I like the better filtrtation (obviously) but like the money that I will eventually save on oil changes too. I'm not planning on changing until analysis says that I should.



Do a search on the subject, there are some people with VERY High mileage on their oil with a by pass and can continue to use it.



As for the by pass system itself. It is very high quality and was easy to install. It took me about 1. 5hrs to put on and that includes removing my dual by pass and modifing my mounting system to work with the single by pass.



hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions. Also research all the options out there, just cuz amsoil was right for me doesnt mean there isnt something thats better for your application.



J-

 

[EB]

I switched my truck over to Amsoil with the bypass filter setup at a little over 18k. My truck now has almost 87k on it and I haven't changed oil yet. I change the full flow filter at around 8k and have changed the single bypass filter twice, at 25k use miles on the filter. My oil analysis come pack with the note that the oil is good for continued use.

My last truck went over 416k with 0 engine problems. The filtration system works and Amsoil works.

I am not a dealer for Amsoil, I just believe in it.

 

[amsoilman]

chobbs,



Sorry I came across as a "sales person, end user". I thought I was just stating some facts about the filter system, as well as answering your question regarding if they were a valuable asset.



You did EXPLICITLY ask if this product was a Valuable asset.



Yes I do sell the Amsoil products, but I would use the by-pass system even if I did not sell their products. It just seems like a very valuable system, as it does filter the oil much better than the OEM filter is capable of doing. The bottom line is "less wear" within the engine, and longer drain intervals.





Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Whitmore]

Chobbs, your oem filter filters down to 10 micron and the bypass of polish filter takes it down to 2 micron, I have the Amsoil single setup and like it well, I change the filter once a year . I mounted mine a little different than most, it is on the side of the block under the turbo, I have to get at it from underside of the truck but it is way easy and isnt in the way of anything, I have the return line comming back to my fill cap on the valve cover and am able to monitor my filter condition from there. There is also another bennifit, one day my oil pressure gauge went to 0psi so I pulled over and popped the hood screwed the oil cap off and the oil flow was still there as usual so that told me it was simply the sender gone bad.



My concern with oil now is the amount of soot and the black oil, I am wondering the value of one of those toilet paper filters?



Cheers, Kevin

 

[WadePatton]

Several Options

When you decide that you want premium engine oil filtering via the bypass setup, there are many different ways to go.



Amsoil, Oilguard, Filtration Systems, Gulf Coast, and more I'm sure. I've looked into most of these. If you contact Marlin at Filtration Systems, he'll send you a CD computer video where they show the FS filter against a full-flow Fleetguard(what's the point?) and an Amsoil bypass filter. While the Amsoil filter is better than the Fleetguard--that's an apples to bananas comparison--the FS is clearly better than the Amsoil (for soot anyway). See it and believe it.



My choice is the Gulf Coast filter. It's very large and very heavy--the cannister is 25# empty. That should make it bullet and rock proof. The GCF uses a roll of Bounty for the element and adds about 6 quarts capacity to your system. Lawrence, my neighbor and TDR member, put one on his 96 truck (stock power) and the oil didn't change colors for 10,000 miles. Then he changed oil to go to synthetic.



I've already converted to synthetic and have blackened that oil thoroughly. I have the Gulf Coast filter, but have been to busy with the 12v to put it on.



I'm going to install it and put the dirty synthetic back into the system and watch it clean up. I plan to run the GCF element until the oil starts getting dark--assuming that it cleans it back up. I think it will. I'll also sample the oil dirty, and then 5k later after bypass filtration.



GCF of Oklahoma is a TDR advertiser--ask for the TDR discount. It should be $375-- $20 off, shipping included.



GCF also has a specific element for those who don't like the paper towel option. There is also a Toilet Paper filter out there. It requires more frequent changing, but filters better than PT.



Any way you go, SOME bypass filtering is better than NO bypass filtering, especially if you're a high mileage kind of driver. Or one who hates oil changes.



Note: DC nor Cummins like extended oil change intervals, so be careful to keep records of samples in case the worst happens. I'm satisfied that well-filtered synthetic is the best thing for my engines. In a few hundred thousand miles, I might be able to tell you for sure.

 

[Murietaman]

Re: Several Options

Sorry amsoilman didn't mean to step on your toes. Other TDR members have added to the post and backed up your thoughts. Thanks to the rest of you for your input. What a great site. Send me your # Wayne so you can get credit for the sale.

 

[icman95]

Drop in oil pressure

I have been using Amsoil for a few years now in various applications and finally got around to putting in the dual remote bypass filter system. While I'm sure it's filtering well, there is quite a significant drop in oil pressure. I'm just about ready to take it off for fear of damaging my engine. I'd love to hear any suggestions, especially from amsoilman Wayne. The truck is an '01 3500 HO with about 33K on it.

 

[amsoilman]

icman95,



In the case of the BMK-15 (duel-remote) all of the oil is circulated at a high flow and pressure (up to 9 gallons per minute) through the duel-remote mount, going through the "Full-Flow" filter element and back to the engine. Along the way, some of the oil is circulated through the by-pass element, as there is a channel built inside the mount. Within this channel, there is a small ball and seat that has a spring forcing the ball against the seat. The oil pressure unseats the ball, and this creates a backpressure on the oil that will force oil through the by-pass element. Now the by-pass element itself has a very restrictive filter media, so by design, it will not flow oil through it very easy. This allows the oil to flow through the by-pass element very slowly, about 6 quarts every five minutes with a 40-psi force pushing it.

Eventually, all the oil will run through the by-pass element, and the oil will stay analytically clean.



Now it has been my experience that due to the extreme "flow" of the oil through the two hoses, one may see a slight drop in oil pressure, and in some cases there can also be some noise developed from the extreme amount of oil flowing through the hoses as well. I have never seen the oil pressure drop more than 3-5 PSI reading from a "real" (mechanical) pressure gauge.



This is just one of the reasons I always suggest the Single remote (BMK-11) system.



Hope this helps,



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Steve Campbell]

amsoilman.....

..... would a person be able to watch the oil pressure guage to know when the "by-pass" filter is starting to get "full"? I am thinking a rise in oil pressure back towards "normal" from the 3-5 lb drop experienced after first installation.

 

[icman95]

Wayne,



Thanks for your help. While I realize that the gauge on the dashboard isn't perfectly accurate, the drop in pressure is more that just a few psi. For example under hard acceleration and then sustained high rpm, the gauge doesn't go beyond a hair past the 40 psi mark which is dead center on the gauge face. Before putting the dual remote on, this would cause the gauge to read somewhere in the neighborhood of 50-60 psi. This is why I'm a bit concerned. It would seem to me a drop of at least 10 psi which is pretty significant. I'm going to discuss the situation with my local Amsoil dealer this weekend to see what to do about it. Perhaps your idea of the single bypass is the best way to go.



Thanks,



Ken

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I was having a Dual vs Single remote bypass discussion recently.



I for one do not want a system that routes all my oil away from the engine for filtering, but instead bleed off a small portion to circulate through the bypass for fine cleaning.



When I read that the oil pump on the 24-valve can crank out as much as 17 gallons per minute of oil flow, I surmised it would be very difficult to force oil that fast through a dual-bypass, full flow system. The farther oil has to travel the more resistance there is to flow. You'd about have to have hoses the size of the fuel pumps at a gas station! I have seen quite a few posts by guys who've seen several pounds loss in oil pressure. Add to that the fact if something *did* happen to one of the hoses going to the remote unit, say it burst or got cut in some way, it would only take seconds for your engine to pump all the oil out onto the ground.



After I establish some baseline oil analysis numbers I plan on going with the Amsoil single bypass remote. Amsoilman PMed me all the info a few months ago (thanks man). I'll probably install it at 45,000 miles which is one of my scheduled oil changes. I haven't decided how long I'll go between changes after I put it on, probably 30,000 miles if I can talk myself into it, otherwise I'll play it safe and do 20K changes to start with



Vaughn

 

[amsoilman]

Steve Campbell



I don't know if one could tell if the by-pass element were getting plugged by a drop in oil pressure as the oil pressure should be the same on the "input" side of the element, whether it's plugged or not. There is a very small oriface on the outlet side of the by-pass filter block that keeps the oil pressure up, as well as allows only a small amount of flow through the element. The best way to tell if the element is plugged is to feel the element after the vehicle is run for awhile. If it is cool and not hot to the touch, then I would say there is not much "flow" through it.





icman95,



If you are concerned with the oil pressure loss, I would run it past the Tech guy's at Amsoil Inc. (1-715-392-7101) They should be able to give you some answers that may help you.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Cummins4Life]

Does anybody make a relocation kit that puts the stock filter in a place easier to get at?

 

[WadePatton]

Beautiful. Now I don't have to rely only on the oil changing color. I can just feel the supply line to the bypass element to check for flow, DOH! Thanks Wayne.



I looked at the oil in the Bounty system today. 3000 miles and it's yaller like gold. The original fill went 10k without changing color--was converted to synthetic. This is a '96 with over 100k on it.



Probably get mine hooked up this week. Mount that 25# can tomorrow--gotta wait for the xtra oil to come in.

 

[Mtngoat]

A friend of mine was looking thru this and asked what would the dealer say when he opens the hood and sees one?? My guess is the dealer will NOT like it. Am I right??



Robin

 

[amsoilman]

Mtngoat



every dealer is different with respect to what they see in and around the vehicles they service, but I can tell you this. There is NO WAY one of these by-pass filters will cause engine damage, If they are physically connected properly. That is why they are connected in "parallel" with the main flow of oil. Oil like electricity, will take the path of least resistance, so when connected in Parallel, one could completely "BLOCK OFF" the lines running to the by-pass element, and the flow of oil will still be going to the engine just the same as if the by-pass were not there.



I remember back when I purchased my first CTD (1991) I had it in the service department for some warranty work, and a Chrysler rep was looking around my truck as it had some very explicit additions. When he saw the by-pass mounted on the engine, he actually knew what it was, and made the comment that it was one of the BEST things that I had done to the truck!



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[WadePatton]

Finally got most of the stuff on the 12v.



So I mounted the bohemoth Gulf Coast filter last night. Drilled holes in floor pan and hung it under passenger seat. Only problem is that it's in the way for crossmember bolts and I have a clutch job coming up.



I'm starting with dirty oil. Will let you know when if/when it cleans up.