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Bypass Filter?

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Check out the Filtration Solutions by- pass filter www.fs2500.com quality unit easy to install mounts on frame,kit comes with everything. This is a true by-pass filter ,OEM filter stays on the engine. Check out their website they will send you a free video on the testing of by-pass competitors. I had to put one on after watching the video, its awesome. Gregg
 
just curious

One thing I have wondered about extended drain intervals... . It would see problematic with multi viscosity oil. With a straight 30 or 40 wt, I can understand it.



All multi-vis oils including synthetics rely upon long chain polymers to unwind themselves when warmed which increases viscosity.



These long chain polymers are known to break down over time and use. No avoiding that.



Oil analysys does not address that particular property of oil that I have seen.



I wonder how may of you folks running 15w40 are now running 15w oil after 10 or 20,000 miles and the multi-vis polymers can no longer respond to heating.



Just wondering how that works.
 
I think one of the concepts figured into the long interval is the fact you constantly add new oil when changing out the filters. Each time you change you add a quart. This new oil has the properties and additives to replace those lost during use. You have a point though. Maybe the one quart isn't enough?
 
Don't know anything about the multi-vis polymers but I just changed my oil after 70,000 miles. I'm waiting for the oil analysis to come back and it will probably say that the oil is good for continued use, but I couldn't stand it any longer. If the analysis comes back good, I'll know it is good for that distance anyway.

My last truck went 416+k using extended intervals, so I'd say that there isn't much worry about it. I use Amsoil 15/40.
 
I don't know about chains either-we don't use snow chains down here in Fla. That was bad-sorry-I do know that the viscosity is one area they test when I send an oil sample in. It always shows at the top of the scale for 10w-40. I finally dumped the amsoil synthetic I had in for the past 95,000 miles only because I removed engine to install cam, lifters, head work, etc. I am reinstalling my puradyn system when it goes back together.
 
My system holds 17 quarts. A bypass filter change is 6 and the OEM is 1 quart. So plenty of new oil is going back in on filter only changes.
 
Vaughn,

I forgot to mention that all of the Amsoil By-Pass elements are of the "SPIN-ON" Throw away design, so when changing the elements there is not much of a mess.





Wayne

amsoilman
 
Wayne sez:



"I forgot to mention that all of the Amsoil By-Pass elements are of the "SPIN-ON" Throw away design, so when changing the elements there is not much of a mess. "



THAT factor should not be overlooked!



I love my Frantz toilet paper element filter - and have used it on a half dozen vehicles in over 40 years with great success - but they are messier to clean up and remove/install new elements (not in getting on/off the vehicle, but replacing the element itself), and significant care must be exercised in selecting and properly installing new elements, either the paper towel or TP type. Improperly selected material or improperly installed, performance can vary greatly. It's not rocket science, but decent care MUST be used for best performance - and all that is eliminated in a spin-on, where that part of the equation is already eliminated.



I'd match the filtering performance of my Frantz to any of the competition - but there's no comparison to the ease of using a spin-on!
 
Gary are you sure you don't just like making a big mess? I always thought my dad was joking when he would tell me about stuffing a roll of TP as a filter in his old trucks when he was a kid. I still don't think anything can beat a solid roll of tight wound TP as a filter, however, I think i'm going to opt for a spin on to save on the mess.
 
Once accustomed to use and maintenance of the frantz type filters, it's really no big deal - here's how mine is installed on my '02:



#ad




I can literally change it without losing a drop of oil - I make it a point to change it after an overnight sit, just as I do with the regulat filter and oil change. I am fortunate enough to have 2 of the Frantz filter housings, and can easily swap from old to new in less than 60 seconds without the slightest mess! Try that with the stock spin-on!:D :D :D



I use the hardest wound single ply TP I can find, and carefully avoid the soft, fluffy embossed stuff - I then adjust the diameter of the replacement roll so it fits as tightly into the Frantz canister as I am able to avoid potential channeling of oil flow - none of this is really a big deal, but many folks simply are unprepared or unwilling to jump through the extra hoops this fine filter needs for the excellent filtering it is capable of.



Heres a shot showing clarity of oil on my dipstick - as near as I recall, there was about 3500 miles on the oil when this was taken:



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How good is it? It will totally clean the blackness and soot from engine oil in the first couple of hundred miles, and keep it clean as new for a couple of thousand miles of heavy use, at which point it still functions well, but oil will again begin to darken - or can be swapped for a new 25 cent element.



My oil analysis results typically show an Iron level of around 7-8 ppm with about 7000 mile hard use on Delo 400 15/40, and all other contaminents equally low...



Yeah, I like the filter, and would recommend them to folks recognizing they are NOT as convenient as a spin-on!
 
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so Gary, you use delo 15/40... do you ever completely change the oil? Or are you satisfied after an element change and good analysis results? After all and element change replaces a good amount of oil. Just curious to how long you keep your oil in the system. Delo is not a PAO 4th gen oil right? I'm tossing up the idea of the amsoil spin on or a TP system right now. The frantz seems like a gem, the gulfcoast seems a bit pricy and I'm not keen on the mount either.
 
Okay, I gota ask this. What brand of TP do you use? I find it hard to believe that the TP doesn’t just disintegrate under these conditions. :eek:
 
The brand TP I use usually varies from one time to another, depending on the store I'm in and what is available - I'm currently working my way thru a 4-pack of Scott TP...



Delo 400 is stated to be an "ISO/SYN" oil - one that has some of the beneficial charactersitics of a synthetic, but not all - I'll leave it to the lube experts to tell us exactly what that means to us end users...



I prefer to change the TP cartridge one time in a 5000 mile run, at the 2500 mile mark, and add a single quart of oil when the change is made - remarks from the lab doing the analysis suggest I should go longer on the oil due to low wear numbers and condition of the oil - but I prefer a 5000-7500 interval, depending on season and usage.



TP "fall apart" - yeah - we hear THAT old wives tale all the time:rolleyes: :rolleyes:



Fact is, currently MANY large commercial and industrial diesel users employ some form of paper towel or similar element bypass filters in their critical installations - they'd hardly do that if the filter material routinely ended up in the crankcase!



What are regular oil/fuel filters made of?



P-A-P-E-R... so is TP!:p :p



Fact is oil does NOT weaken paper - try wetting a piece of newspaper or TP, then compare its resistance to tearing with a dry sheet.



IF the TP was "falling apart", I seriously doubt that after 5000 miles I would see oil analysis numbers like these - check and see if you can spot the item where ppm of toilet paper is reported:



#ad




Only unusual circumstance in the oil this report is on, is the addition of 3 bottles of STP to the crankcase on Rotella T I was using at that time - this was the last report on my old '91 Dodge at 113,000 miles before buying the '02...



I'm not ashamed to compare the above numbers to ANY other filter - OR oil - dino or synthetic!;) :D :D
 
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