Bypass filtering of diesel fuel

[RDeFayette]

The biggest intent isn't to put the cleanest fuel into the holding tank, it's to fill the bed tank and filter it with a water absorbing filter as it fills the main tank. A water absorbing filter will stop all fuel flow when it is full of water, this is why you don't want it on the fuel line to the truck as it would cause your engine to die.

The fuel will be drier than just the filters on the AD or FASS.


Speaking of cleanest fuel on the planet, which filters are on your AD100? The original filters where worse than the OEM one.

donaldsons, and that is one of the reasons I've never had to change injectors.

 

[AH64ID]

donaldsons, and that is one of the reasons I've never had to change injectors.

Good choice.

P551315 and a P550550?

 

[RDeFayette]

Good choice.

P551315 and a P550550?

yup, both fuel and WS

 

[AH64ID]

yup, both fuel and WS

While you have a long mileage record behind you I would consider a Baldwin BF1275 over the Donaldson f/w sep. The Donaldson is rated a little lower than OEM for emulsified water separation, and the Baldwin exceeds OEM in free and emulsified separation.

 

[RDeFayette]

While you have a long mileage record behind you I would consider a Baldwin BF1275 over the Donaldson f/w sep. The Donaldson is rated a little lower than OEM for emulsified water separation, and the Baldwin exceeds OEM in free and emulsified separation.

Thanks might have to give it a go next time around. still have the Donaldsons on a shelf but as I have said before. no point in cheaping out on something this expensive (initially and to repair).

 

[brods]

There is no need for fuel bypass filtration on a single tank setup, as mentioned most the fuel gets filtered at least twice before going thru the injectors.

An additional f/w sep and a 3um filter are the best way to go.

......

.... A water absorbing filter will stop all fuel flow when it is full of water, this is why you don't want it on the fuel line to the truck as it would cause your engine to die.

The fuel will be drier than just the filters on the AD or FASS.

.....

So how would you incorporate a water absorbing filter on a single tank without using a "bypass" or kidney loop arrangement?

 

[AH64ID]

So how would you incorporate a water absorbing filter on a single tank without using a "bypass" or kidney loop arrangement?

I personally wouldn't.

I do believe that Todd, aka TC, does have one on his main feed line. Not sure about his 13 thou.

 

[TCDiesel]

No, The last person that I'm aware of that installed the Aqua-Zorb on direct filtration went thru 3 lift pump motors in 2 Years, Also the water will freeze and plug the filter in 20 or less temps or saturated.

You must install Auxiliary filtering to stop contamination.

These 2 owners (Jim Sam) may chime in when they calm down, both installed the popular systems advertised on the NET/FORUMS after purchasing new fuel system Pump/Injectors, Jim had to replace both pumps and injectors, Sam is replacing his engine, Sam had to drive after the contamination occurred, unfortunately it ruin hole #1.

All filters had trash and water found, X% was liberated form the filter media allowing it to continue to injection component's Thus destroying them.

I have multi filters on our test equipment, When the fluid needs replacing I spin on filters for testing. I have plugged the Zinga filter that was downstream of the filters claiming to stop 2mic, I added 16oz of water thoroughly stirred to 20 gallons the Zinga filter AE-03AZL plugged shut after 8.4 gallons, the Water separating filter I gave up on after pumping 60 gallons, 20 Gallons 3 times. during the process I kept checking the filter then I left it sit for 7 days, the internals of the filter were corrode form the bypassing water thus becoming the problem NOT the cure.

Most filters are designed to filter fuel, NOT stop contamination, Your 1st pass filter is the most important. So make the 1st one that stops contamination, not just filter or recycle the fuel.

 

[STEVEBROOKS]

Update on my original post: have decided to go ahead with a fully separate fuel by-pass filtering system. Have a pretty good design for this system worked up, and it will involve a sump being added to the main tank. Would like to hear about any positive/negative feedback and installation advice from anybody who has added a sump like this http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=STK5500BO or something similar.

Thanks in advance for the replies!

Steve

I have completed the majority of the fuel by-pass filtering system on my truck. Very happy with the results so far. Only remaining task is to add the sump to the main tank and plumb it in to the system. That said, I'd like any advice as to where to place the sump on my main tank from anybody who has added one to theirs. Rationale is that I had an in-tank pump added to my truck years ago under warranty and, with the '03s originally not having an in-tank pump, there are not cast markings on the bottom of the tank indicating where the in-tank pump is located above. My understanding (perhaps wrong?) is that those year models that do have a factory-installed in-tank pump have cast indicators on the tank to show where the pump is located above. I've been advised to place the sump "at the lowest point of the tank", but don't want to assume doing that won't interfere with the in-tank pump. Any photos and/or sump-locating measurements anybody can provide will be greatly appreciated!

Steve

 

[TCDiesel]

SJBrooks the in-tank pump is the module pump,(Just like gas) All you need to do is install 1 Pickup Tube and 1 return to tank. The sump will just make the system more complex and is NOT necessary. You will also be adding some risks to leaks, you just don't need the sump.

 

[TCDiesel]

Here's a picture of MY Ecodiesel Tank with Pickup and return.

 

[Mathes308]

Only real way to prevent a debris failure would be a filter on each injector.
Otherwise even shavings from a failing CP3 will crap an injector.
As for "first time fuel" greater than 2 microns shouldn't make it through, if it makes it through once what says it doesn't make it through the fancy bypass.

BP filters their fuel down to 0.05 micron or less.
They claim it saves their equipment, consider how much fuel they move a day, end result is super clean fuel.
Most likely cause of dirt is the guy dumping the fuel into the tanks and your truck dissolving from wear.

Kind of like the synthetic oil post I just read, if you spend $10,000 in fuel filters over 250,000 miles, you could of just ran a stocker and rebuilt the engine twice.
Then you would of had 2 new rebuilds instead of one worn out engine with a pile of filters.

 

[RDeFayette]

Only real way to prevent a debris failure would be a filter on each injector.
Otherwise even shavings from a failing CP3 will crap an injector.
As for "first time fuel" greater than 2 microns shouldn't make it through, if it makes it through once what says it doesn't make it through the fancy bypass.

BP filters their fuel down to 0.05 micron or less.
They claim it saves their equipment, consider how much fuel they move a day, end result is super clean fuel.
Most likely cause of dirt is the guy dumping the fuel into the tanks and your truck dissolving from wear.

Kind of like the synthetic oil post I just read, if you spend $10,000 in fuel filters over 250,000 miles, you could of just ran a stocker and rebuilt the engine twice.
Then you would of had 2 new rebuilds instead of one worn out engine with a pile of filters.

Post up where you saw that BP filters down to 0.05 microns. I/we need to see that one.
$10k on fuel filters in 250k miles? even if you changed the fuel filter every 1k miles that's only 250 filters @$30 a piece (pulled out of a receipt box) that's still "only" $7500. And I don't know anyone that changes that often!
rebuild twice for $10k? don't think so. average "stockish" rebuild (due to hung injector/holed piston) including injectors is around $10k.

 

[Mathes308]

Eh, didn't fine tune the math.
All in all, seems a waste when you can just do the CAT filter like everyone does.

As for the BP bit, I'll try to dig it up, I nagged a bunch of local suppliers about their fuel filtration, BP was the only ones that gave me any useful info. My actual questioning was about the filters at the pump but BP sent me a long winded explanation on filtering. Really makes sense, not only does it save their equipment but also keeps costs down due to trashing fleet trucks all over the world with bad fuel and paying out court fees.

 

[Mathes308]

Sorry, added a zero somehow, here's more exact data.

http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/diesel-fuel-cleaniness.pdf

They list the fuel as a min of 55 cetane rating and 0.45 micron filtration.

Scientifically speaking, the vent on the fuel tank and the crap covered nozzle you stab into the tank is probably 99% of the contamination problem in our trucks.

Run the 2 micron cat filter right before the CP3 and call it a day.

 

[brods]

You are reading more into it than is there: "Particulate matter – up to 3 mg/l by ASTM D2276, which filters diesel through a 0.45
micron filter."

What that implies is they use a 0.45 micron filter pad to test the fuel. 3mg/l or less of particulate will be left behind on the pad after the diesel is run through it. That is in no way the same as filtering all their fuel through a 0.45 micron filter.

If you look up the next spec ISO4406 16/12 you will see the fuel is nowhere close to 0.45 um. 15/11 (which is cleaner than 16/12) allows 160-320 particles 5 mic and larger and 10-20 particles 15 micron and larger per unit of volume.

http://www.pirtekusa.com/fwp/skyharbor/PFSfiltration/CaseStudiesIntroductiontoOilAnalysis.asp

 

[cerberusiam]

Scientifically speaking, the vent on the fuel tank and the crap covered nozzle you stab into the tank is probably 99% of the contamination problem in our trucks.

The largest source, and hardest to fix, of contamination is the tanks themselves and the delivery systems. It doesn't matter much how clean the fuel is at the refinery when it is drawing moisture and picking up contaminants ever inch of the distance to the vehicle tank.

 

[The patriot]

I have a Fleetguard FL 1000 on my truck. Replacement filters are about $10 and I get the 1 micron one.

 

[AH64ID]

I have a Fleetguard FL 1000 on my truck. Replacement filters are about $10 and I get the 1 micron one.

FL1000 or FS1000?

AFIK fleetguard doesn't have any 1um media. Their best media is the new nanonet media at 3um.

 

[cerberusiam]

FL1000 is not a valid Fleet Guard number and nothing is 1 um. A FS1000 is 10 um, only as good as the old stock filters and inadequate for a CR engine.