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Bypass oil filter for 6.7L

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Asian Transmission Question / Service Manual

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With all the oil service problems with the 6. 7L I am convinced that for the sake of engine longivity we need to add a bypass filter. For you guys with 6. 7s that have added a bypass filter please let us know if it seems that your service light is coming on less often. Please share your hard facts with us. I do have a problem with bypass makers claiming that you should only change the filter at 10k miles or longer.



Thanks a bunch
 
Spinner II Retrn Oil Feed

Currently I am the process of installing a Spinner II in the 6. 7. There is very little room in the engine compartment so I had to find a way and means to install something in the small space. Hanging something down underneath on the frame, does not make sense, to me as it will be forgotten. (out of sight out of mind) I have had a lot of help with this install and will send pictures of the final install once we are satisfied with the placement and arrangement of the inlet and return oil lines. Extended oil drain intervals may not be possible with the 6. 7 as the oil is so contaminated with soot with the use of the EGR pumping so much crude into the engine. It really makes me wonder why we bother to filter the air intake to turn around and feed raw, soot contaminated, exhaust gas into the intake. The throttle body after two weeks has 1/8 inch of caked on soot. The result is the oil is coal tar black with a very high soot content. When I talk with the Fleetguard people they have the nerve to tell me the 6. 7 was not designed to have any additional oil filtering (Bypass). These are the same people who designed the fuel filter to be placed in such a position requiring the removal for the drivers side front wheel and fender liner to change out the fuel filter, and then go on to complain that the fuel is contaminated because the filter has not been changed often enough. end of rant.
 
courierdog... . When I talk with the Fleetguard people they have the nerve to tell me the 6. 7 was not designed to have any additional oil filtering (Bypass). These are the same people who designed the fuel filter to be placed in such a position requiring the removal for the drivers side front wheel and fender liner to change out the fuel filter said:
Fleetguard may have designed the system, but it is Dodge who "stuffed" it in the chassis, and the EPA who mandate all the "crap" that is added onto the engine. Just my $. 02 Shadrach
 
I installed the FS-2500 And I am coming up on 5000 miles since the install. I am going send in an oil analysis to blackstone labs and change all the oil and filters for the first time and then go from there to see what kind of interval I can get bases on the future analysis. I may not save any money for awhile but I will know in the long run how long I can safely go on an oil change. Then I think the savings will come. As to courierdog, I didn't like the mounting on the frame either but that is where I had to put it. I don't think I will ever forget it's there.

I just hope it was money well spent. Time will only tell. It may be wishfull thinking but my oil does not look quite as black as previously.
 
Mounting of the FS2500

Actually there is a place to mount the FS2500 under the hood.

It is in front of the Air Intake horn. There are three engine mounting holes in the block which I have seen used for this purpose.

Let me see If I can find the post showing this mount.
 
With all the oil service problems with the 6. 7L I am convinced that for the sake of engine longivity we need to add a bypass filter.



The oil change monitor is set by two parameters: 1) distance, 2) duty cycle - essentially fuel dilution in the oil due to regeneration. For folks who are getting a "Oil Change Required" message before 7500 miles a extra filter will do no good as an extra filter will not help out with fuel dilution.
 
I'vse been doing a lot of looking for a bypass oil filter for my 6. 7. There are ALOT of them out there. Most of the manufactures give you suggestions on capacity and how small of a micron rating, suggested flow rates and so on. To my understanding your 'Oil change required' light is a calculation from the ECM of RPMs, load, fuel consumption, temps (Inside and out of the engine), EGR cycles, Regen cycles, time and a few others. If you are constantly at high loads and on the pipe you will experience a shorter interval between the light going on. So the opposite is also true. Think about it, the soot in the oil of all of the other engines is dependant on it use? right. Yes the EGR will add a lot to it as well. When I tow heavy for an extended period the light will come on sooner, if I drive like a civilized human it delays the activation of the requirement. I honestly do not think the the claims of 7,500 are realistic, given the nature of the emissions crap on these engines. But they are here to stay and we knew that. They were there when we purchased our trucks, Right? Overly optimistic engineers at dodge lead us a little astray with the extended interval oil change ideas. I seem to remember this same sort of debate when the Cummins first got introduced in the late '80's. Big fleets that are concerned about the life of an engine will short and actually over service the oil to keep the engines alive, (I know I did with L10's, DT 466's, 3208T's and Big Cams at 7,500 miles on the oil, I was getting 500,000 to 750,000 between Roll Ins) Just my Observations.
 
FS 2500 in Engine compartment

Yes while this picture is of a 5. 9 mount this space is also available on the 6. 7 and the same mounting technique should work quite well.

I have seen the same mount on 6. 7 but cannot find that picture, yet.
 
Cummins is telling us to run the motors. Heavy pulling is what they were designed to do. Yet we are being kicked with early oil changes. They say if you let them idle a lot and run them like a girly they will soot up. Where is the middle ground.



I still think a bypass is needed even if it helps us a 1000 miles between changes.
 
I agree. My personal choice is a bypass for keeping the heavy crud out. My question is how big, where to put it, how much is a filter element vs changing the oil and what is the availability of the filter element. I am going to do the oil sample tracking to mine and invest in a bypass filter. It's just a matter of finding the one that is economical for me to use. If changing the oil and filter cost $100 and a bypass element cost $50 is the 1,000 miles really worth it. I am trying to find one the has a good moisture absorbing capacity and will filter down to . 5 microns. when I come up with what meets that I'll post my findings.
 
I would like to give an example.



In my basement I replumbed everything and had the plumber to add a 1"large water filter. I normally run a 20 to 30 micron filter. My water flow in the back yard this year while watering some plants my water volumn was OK. While at the plumbing store I picked up a couple of 5 micron filters. WOW the water volumn was cut way down.



I think filters of all kinds in our truck would operate the same way. The mear size of 2 or 5 micron would not flow near as much oil as the regular filter. I am sure they are designed to filter your oil just a little at the time.
 
Fuel Filter Changes

Our last two trips west have cost us 6 or 7 fuel filters due to getting bad fuel (Love Truck Stops). Would sure hate to have been crawling under an 07 to do these changes.
 
I'm one of the guys who works the truck like it should be, and haven't gotten any oil change msg's at short intervals. I changed the oil the first time at 3,000 miles (no msg, but figured it was a good idea) then I didn't change it again till 10,000 miles when the computer told me to.

Maybe there is something to it, people who do frequent town driving, no towing etc are having trouble with oil contamination so the computer is saying change it?

Mine usually goes into regen every 50 miles or so (towing or not :rolleyes:) so you'd think the fuel dilution would be high.

There's no doubt my oil is black as coal which in my mind can't be that good for it, but I figure I'll simply do what Dodge says on oil changes and if the damn thing has any problems it can be their problem.

I'm curious about the throttle body sooting up so quickly, I wonder if we're gonna start having problems with the throttle plate sticking?

Anybody monitor their air intake temperature? I usually run about 140 - 160 degrees, whether it's 80 outside or below zero. Obviously due to the EGR, oddly enough when I'm in regen mode the EGR turns off and my intake temps drop to about 30 degrees over ambient. That seems azz backwards to me too, if the whole idea is to heat up the exhaust... . Oh well, you wouldn't think it would regen when the pyro is already sitting at 1400 because of a 10k load and headwind either. LOL
 
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Most all of the bypass type oil filters that I have looked at lately are metering the oil flow to them to abot . 040", Thats pretty small. Most of them are rating their flow to 1 to 4. 0 Gallons per hour, low pressure of course because it is located after the restriction. They are verry effective in filtering out very small particals in the oil. Some have cookers so that the fuel, Glycol and water can be 'boiled' off.

T
 
AMSOIL makes a great bypass kit for these trucks, for less $ than the FS system. I run one on my '02.



-Chuck



Yep and thus far I'm happy with mine! The mounting I used the rubber deals. It's on another thread, and it sits next to the A/C deal on the firewall.



Chuck, I'm going to be sampling the oil this weekend and I'll let ya know my results when they are in. Remember, I had 2500 miles with no-bypass and installed the bypass and a new full flow at that time. it's close to 2500 miles now and I'm just getting back on the "every 5,000 mile" schedule.



Curious to see what the conditions are.
 
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