Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Bypass Oil Filter mount?

[PRyker]

I bought a Amsoil single bypass filter and am looking for ideas for where to mount it. I have seen a few pics but nothing detailed enough to assist me with designing a mount. I like the idea of using the drivers side battery mount.



Can everyone please share ideas and pics if you have any?



Thanks



Phil

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Dunno about similarities between the Amsoil and Frantz like mine, but here's what I did:



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In case it's not clear, I used a section of 3/8 stainless tubing for the mounting bracket attachment - the passenger side battery hold-down bolt passes thru that tube to hold the bracket and filter canister.

 

[PRyker]

Gary,



Is that a steel tube that the battery bolt inserts into? If it is then it also looks like you secure it to the tube with two screws? But wouldn't they get in the way of pushing the battery bolt through the tube? How stable is that design? Amsoil mounts a bit different but I could make that work.



Looks like a heavier piece of steel on the back secured to a light piece that bends around the tube?



TIA



Phil

 

[PRyker]

By-the-way,



isn't the battery tray made out of cheap plastic? How secure are the bolts it attaches to?



Thanks



Phil

 

[PRyker]

"In case it's not clear, I used a section of 3/8 stainless tubing for the mounting bracket attachment - the passenger side battery hold-down bolt passes thru that tube to hold the bracket and filter canister. "



Sorry, Imissed that the first read...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Here's the backside of the bracket:

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You replied before my post above was completed - so part of your answer was added later - the screws you see were cut short to allow the battery bolt to pass thru cleanly - it is extremely stable and secure - I have another similar Frantz fuel filter mounted the same way on the other battery on the driver's side.



That one uses small U-bolts instead of the bracket shown here - probably works better since it permits up/down movement of the bracket to assure hood clearance.



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[Gary - K7GLD]

That plastc battery tray is designed to hold a 50 LB battery over varying road extremes for the life of the truck - an added 5 lb filter isn't gonna add much stress!

 

[PRyker]

Gary,



As usual your posts are excellent! Thank you for the ideas... it is like a light bulb went on in my head when I saw the steel tube.



Nice work!!



Phil

 

[Chipstien]

What I did was got a 5 inch piece of 4" angle and slid it under the battery. Then I just drilled and tapped the angle so the bracket can mount to it.

 

[PRyker]

I thought that you were not suppose to have a battery sitting on metal. I thought only plastic or wood was acceptable?? Could someone please enlighten me on this subject?? Somthing about the metal draining the battery quicker??



Thanks



Phil

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"I thought that you were not suppose to have a battery sitting on metal. I thought only plastic or wood was acceptable?? Could someone please enlighten me on this subject?? Somthing about the metal draining the battery quicker??"



Yet another old wives tale - many vehicles, industrial, farm equipment, RV's, etc, place the batteries on metal carriers - the battery could care less, as long as its reasonably protected from extremes of heat, cold and vibration...



Only reason for use of plastic is weight savings, ease of molding and lower cost to manufacture...

 

[Rman]

are the plastics as susceptible to corrosion as the old metal carriers? (I know plastic doesn't corrose, I just mean the harsh acids from a battery do some damage to those old school metal carriers) I'm not doubting the main reason is costs by the way.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Well, the battery cases are made of plastic - so it would seem to be pretty resistant to acid corrosion...

 

[PRyker]

I like what each of you have done. Here is my thinking now...



I am going to use a piece of angled steel to sit under the battery and come up the side of the battery like Chipstien did, however, I am also going to use some U-bolts to add a hollow steel tube for the battery bolt to go through as well on the side of the angled steel. Will require some cuts but it will be fun!!



Thanks for the ideas guys...



Phil

 

[PRyker]

Drilling the oil fill cap????

OHH...



one other question here...



When you drilled the oil fill cap did you need to take it apart? Do I just drill right through the top into the bottom or did you make a hole in either end?



Suggestions?



Phil

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Check with Wayne - Amsoilman for info on a swivel fitting and a Stant cap to use it with - better than messing with drilling and adapting the stock cap.

 

[Rman]

Wayne has had some success with drilling the cap, I went and talked to him about it and he showed em how it was done. However, he has also run into some failures down the road after some miles have been put on. Apparently they start to leak.



So, after much thought and heartache I decided to drill my valve cover. Yank it off, clean it up real nice, drill the "R" drill bit hole, tap it with the 1/8" NPT tap and clean it up again, reinstall and your set. I did that with mine and 6k miles later I have NO leaks anywhere with my bypass.



OK, OK, 6k miles isn't squat I know. But this method worked well for me. Drilling the cover took some stones, but hell if I screwed it up I could just buy a cool colored one right?



The amsoil swivel fitting doesn't fit by the way without lengthening it with an adapter. I have an extra one if anyone is interested.



Another fella on here said that a 2000 Nissan Xterra oil cap fits our trucks and the cap works with the amsoil swivel no problem. I've yet to verify this.



Good luck.



CPFF also makes a nifty mount for the bypass. It encases the battery and mounts where the battery mount does. It's quite a nice piece, 60 bucks though. I have one and I like it.

 

[PRyker]

Rman,



Is CPFF a members name here on the TDR? Yes, I have seriously thought about tapping the valve cover as well. What do you mean that the swivel fitting is not long enough? I thought is was designed for this purpose? What did you have to do to modify yours?



Has anyone had any failures with the stock oil filler cap tapped?



Thanks



Phil

 

[Rman]

Yes CPFF is a member, he's a machinist and makes some fine stuff. The amsoil swivel will have to be modified to fit the stock dodge cap. To avoid this I believe Wayne was advising a stant cap be used instead of the stocker. I think this may have licked the leaking problem. Wayne was telling me that the modified (JB welded) stock caps would develop leaks after some period of time.



The stock cap, is very deep to contain the mechanism that prevents over tightening. You just have to thread another adapter to the end of the swivel and then fasten it with a larger size nut on the bottom. I opted to drill the cover and am glad I did, it looks better to me. I'll snap a pic of my setup tonight and post it.

 

[Rman]

http://www.tricountymachine.com/



CPFF's webpage and his contact number.



376k miles without an oil change!!! How's that for all the non-believers.