Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Bypass Oil Filter mount?

[PRyker]

Rman,



Yes!! I would love to see a picture of where and how you drilled the valve cover. Thanks



Phil

 

[Rman]

I'll be sure to clean my engine compartment, it's kind of dusty where I live... I'd hate to shame myself compared to some of the more anal TDRers that clean there's religiously!

 

[Johnstra]

I want to see where you tapped the valve cover too, Rman. I've been saying I'm going to punch my oil pan but I still haven't pulled the trigger. I'm thinking I'd rather tap the valve cover so if I ever sell the truck or remove the filter I just have to pop in a 1/8" plug.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Here's how I did mine:



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[Rman]

See, Steve's compartment you can eat off of. Mine will not look ANYTHING like that I know how much work that was to polish Steve so a well deserved kudos for ya!

 

[PRyker]

I like it!!



I have never removed the valve cover before... Can someone give me some pointers? What should the vavle cover bolts be torqued to? Can I reuse the same bolts or do I need new? I would assume I need a new valve cover gasket yes? Also, what pattern do you tighten the bolts to make sure the cover does not warp?



Are there any gotchas??



Thanks



Phil

 

[Chipstien]

FWIW, I just welded a 1/8" NPT bung onto the turbo oil return line and drain the bypass there. That way it is all downhill from the bypass filter to the block.

 

[PRyker]

Chipstien,



I am weary of doing anything that could slow the flow of oil back into the block. I have heard from others here as well as a friend who was a marine diesel mechanic to never use the turbo oil return for anything.



It is probably going to be fine for you but I am just too much of a coward!



Phil

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

The valve cover gasket is reusable (good thing too cause it's ~$80). The bolts are torqued to 18 ft/lbs and there is no special order, I just torque them in steps like I do with everything.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Call me dense (been called worse... ), But for the life of me, *I* can't figure why anyone would prefer to actuall REMOVE their valve cover, DRILL it, and then risk the leakage potential of that removal/replacement, when all ya need do is:



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PLUS, as an added advantage, taking an oil sample for analysis is as simple as merely unscrewing the oil fill cap and allowing oil flow to be diverted into a suitable container...

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

In my case Gary I figured the likelihood of having future problems with oil leaks, etc was much higher having a swivel fitting and a line into the fill cap that I would be opening and closing (thereby spinning that swivel fitting) and moving out of the way (thereby bending and unbending the line and connection of that line to the fitting plus putting stress on the fitting and the connection to the cap). I've had my valve cover off 4 times (injectors changed twice, valves adjusted, polished cover put on) that I can think of and never any problems with leaks - I've opened my fill cap a ton more times than that. I also think it looks more finished going to a hard point than into a fill cap - JMHO.

 

[Chipstien]

Originally posted by PRyker

Chipstien,



I am weary of doing anything that could slow the flow of oil back into the block. I have heard from others here as well as a friend who was a marine diesel mechanic to never use the turbo oil return for anything.



It is probably going to be fine for you but I am just too much of a coward!



Phil

I hear what your saying but in reality there is NO possible way that this can happen. The size of the orifice feeding the turbo is about a 1/8 of a inch while the return is around 1" tubing. That coupled with the fact that the bypass filter flows very little in itself leads me to believe this is not a problem. TEHO.



Anyways, the easiest thing is to tap the manifold. Like Steve, I feel that going to a "hard point" looks far more finished. However, as Gary pointed out, it is far easier to take a oil sample when going to the oil cap. I personally dont bother with Oil Analysis. Good luck.

 

[Rman]

My digital camera's battery is FUBAR, so I'll try and use my digital this morning at work.



Gary,



I've heard nothing but problems from people adapting the amsoil swivel fitting and chose to mount it permanently, I installed a petcock for oil samples. Removing a valve cover is common on these engines and they are very durable compared to the corck style gaskets on V8 heads.



I've taken off my valve cover several times now with no problems, maybe I'm just the lucky one, it's sure easy enough for me though.

 

[JCyrbok]

mount

I originally had a amsoil dual by pass mounted to TDR Member CPFF "battery box" mount. When I switched to the single by pass I used the same mount. All I had to do was drill some holes and bolt the filter mount right up. looks reall good, almost stock looking and is very strong.



I also use the swivel into the filler cap and have had absolutely no problems in two years. No leaks or concerns. Plus like other have stated it is very handy for pulling a sample from.



Hope this helps.



J-



I'll try to post some pics if my work digital is charged up when I get there.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

It's true that adapting is needed to use the stock Cummins oil fill cap with the swivel fitting - never could get mine completely sealed - but use of the Stant replacement with it's different construction totally eliminates that issue. The other benefits have already been covered - but *I* sure wouldn't want to ruin the looks of that fine Cummins valve cover when so easy an alternative is readily available...



Besides, if you ever need to remove the bypass, such as transfering it to another vehicle, you need not leave any traces of mods behind... I guess I'm just a bit more anal concerning creation of permanent defacing attachments of add-ons than some...