Bypass Oil Options

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

From what I am looking at Amsoil sells the only kit for this year of truck. They do sell a dual head unit that has an adapter that makes both filters remote but it's not recommended for this truck.
I suppose I'd be happy enough going with bypass filtration as long as I don't have to mount the filter pretty much front and center of the engine compartment I've heard people use different locations.

I'm currently using the fleet guard dual stage oil filter which is kind of a poor man's bypass oil filter but it's a darn good filter. I imagine if I had a bypass oil filter I could potentially look into a different filter set but what I mainly curious about is it would be such a luxury and so convenient if both filters were remote and shared the same head unit. I searched on Bobistheoilguy and he did a DIY but there were springs and ball bearings and stuff involved as well as a gauge which for me isn't really a problem because I do have an open slot, but when it comes to engine oil I think it's best not to mess around if you can get away with it I've heard that people with compounds to do this sort of thing and the filter isn't really in the greatest spots in the world so if I'm going to install one I just didn't know if I should be looking to get everything done at once if a dual remote mount with one being a bypass filter was a possibility.

I also have a treasure trove of aircraft quality fluid lines I think I have a pretty good idea of what adapter I would want to use I just didn't know if this was a viable thing or if I should just focus on the remote bypass filter and leave the original filter the heck where it is. Also didn't know if Amsoil was the only game in town for a bypass oil filter option.

If anybody feels like discussing this or linking some options for consideration I don't tend to go off half cocked and I'm probably about 6 months away from actually doing this with all the other stuff I have to do to my truck so there's plenty of time for me to do research doesn't matter where speaking theoretically or hypothetically or whatever.

I appreciate your time.

 

[CVR222NV]

I have the Amsoil Bypass single head with the ports on the top:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/filter-mount-assembly-bk303/

They also have the single head with the ports on the side:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/filter-mount-assembly-bk305/

I have no problem changing the regular filter in the stock location so I saw no need to remote locate it. It's location keeps it clean and out of harms way. I did not want the By-Pass filter hanging underneath the truck so I mounted it on the lip of the passenger side cowl inside the engine compartment. The system is plumbed to a special oil filter cap on the valve cover. I can't seem to find that oil cap on the Amsoil website. I also added a sensor port off the filter head for an ISSPRO oil pressure gauge. I plumbed it with stainless lines and -AN fittings.

 

[Ozymandias]

You can also just use the Fleetgard 9028 Filter, it has a built in fine filtration element.

 

[Topzide]

I did the remote dual filter unit on my truck. Get the Amsoil unit and their remote filter location unit to send your oil to the remote unit. I plumbed mine with 1/2" hydraulic lines. Hard part was making a skid plate to protect the filters which are located under the passengers floor broad on the frame rail. I know that it wasn't needed on our trucks with the newer oils and filtration. I wanted to have extra oil in the system and the filtration is a bonus of the setup.
Here's link to pick before I changed out the lines. Didn't like the original lines I had plumbed. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/oil-relocation-kit.270735/page-2#post-2667495

 

[p-Bar]

Back in the day 2005 there was a lot stuff made for the 3rd genners. I'll try to post the pic of my setup.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

These are all pretty interesting suggestions thank you very much. I am using the 12TBN 15/40 and the Fleetgaurd LF9028 with the 2 stack of standard and ultra fine venturi pass. Pretty smart. Cut one open once, pretty interesting.
Of course the oil turns black fairly quick but the labs are always good.
I have heard some say that the bypass system actually keeps diesel oil looking clean-ish? Seems unlikely but if true that is crazy considering how small that material is. Even if it does turn black anyway, I figure the benefits are there. Not selling it, not exactly driving it like a grandma either so whatever helps it last and if I change the oil less based on Blackstone that's just a luxury.

 

[Ozymandias]

Our engines are happy with just occasionally new oil and a standard filter, they won't last any longer by these additional filter kits. It is a basic industrial turbo diesel engine that runs around the world under that worst conditions and with any diesel engine oil that is available right there and excels.

I used the LF9028 for some time to extend the oil change intervals which it was designed for. But went back to regular intervals after some time because engine oil is so cheap.

 

[Topzide]

The oil doesn't stay the clear amber color with a bypass setup. It does stay a cleaner black if that makes sense. The only reason that I put it on mine, was the fact that I had gotten it for another project before I acquired this truck! I don't extend the oil changes, just like the extra capacity for the system. This fall when I do my oil change, will put in an insulation pad behind the mount, to cut down on sound transmission from engine. I was able to use holes already in the frame and used "jack nut inserts" in them. Their the rubber flange with nut in the hole and draws up like a toggle bolt. Just not enough insulation for the sound transmission. Simple fix. If you mount down on the frame, make a skid plate to protect from road debris! Good luck with installation!

 

[bigceltic]

I ran the Amsoil Bypass system on my truck for many years but never saw any real benefit. My UOA always indicated changing as recommended by the Manuf, and after removing it (was contemplating a twin turbo setup and needed the space) I have not noticed any differences in my UOA.

 

[slowmover]

The factory spin-on is pretty much a screen. Can’t be otherwise as full-flow is required. A bypass is “nice”, but it’ll take a centrifuge to keep oil cleaner “longer” (engine hours and/or miles).

Today’s oil is flat-amazing versus even a dozen years ago. The last two fleet trucks I’ve driven (15L, different manufacturers) had 60K OCI and spec’d T5 10W-30. Trucks were loaded to near max every time. That OCI was the warranty provision. No deviations.

An O/O might want to continue with washable SS screen full-flow + centrifuge using an oil which is far past minimal spec. Not many others will benefit in dollars & cents.

The exception I see is where SHTF and oil of any real quality is difficult to obtain. That’s reasonable given what’s going on. (Same with best quality tires now).

Coolant and other filter systems same reason.

Other than that given that one controls Average MPH and limits number of cold engine starts (4-hours; combine all trips) it’s harder today to see a benefit to a bypass system.

.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

The factory spin-on is pretty much a screen. Can’t be otherwise as full-flow is required. A bypass is “nice”, but it’ll take a centrifuge to keep oil cleaner “longer” (engine hours and/or miles).

Today’s oil is flat-amazing versus even a dozen years ago. The last two fleet trucks I’ve driven (15L, different manufacturers) had 60K OCI and spec’d T5 10W-30. Trucks were loaded to near max every time. That OCI was the warranty provision. No deviations.

An O/O might want to continue with washable SS screen full-flow + centrifuge using an oil which is far past minimal spec. Not many others will benefit in dollars & cents.

The exception I see is where SHTF and oil of any real quality is difficult to obtain. That’s reasonable given what’s going on. (Same with best quality tires now).

Coolant and other filter systems same reason.

Other than that given that one controls Average MPH and limits number of cold engine starts (4-hours; combine all trips) it’s harder today to see a benefit to a bypass system.

.

Do you have a link for something resembling the centrifuge system that you used on your setup?
That sounds pretty interesting.

You were also the only person to mention SHTF. Looks like you figured me out. I run Amsoil 12 TBN 15W40. Just the liquid is 120 bucks and the fleet guard double stage filter that Cummins now recommends for his engines well those are 50 bucks.
You talking about a centrifuge for cleaning oil off of the truck are you talking about a centrifuge that operates as the engine operates?
Also I have seen these reusable oil filters that you can essentially just clean a screen which is what I'm used to seeing on aircraft engines and the filtration on aircraft and since they're so good that just based on the amount of oil that comes out of the engine during servicing we never have to do oil changes we just clean that screen reinstall it about 20 to 30% of the capacity comes out and the oil always looks like it's the same color.

Keep in mind that turbo props are essentially diesel engines in a way as jet a also known as Aviation kerosene as well as kerosene and petrol diesel are all sort of like cousins. I've actually run plenty of jet fuel in my truck although it's a heck of a lot dryer so I had some lubricity to it it's almost like giving it a tune-up. But I digress.

These turbo drops with their production gear boxes and accessory cases and various bearings that have oil ports heading to them don't exactly live easy lives either and they're producing somewhere in the range of 2400 foot pounds of torque for something that probably weighs about the same amount as our engine does on the smaller side for things like King airs and 1900s the pt6 is probably the most popular type of problem in the world.
But even on the larger she e ct7 same thing and even on straight up jet engines, oil changes really aren't required and they all have a cleanable screen filter.

I also work on reciprocating engines that have rings and combustion Chambers some of them are diesel and they do run on jet a. And the oil looks different and additionally they use the throwaway filters however there are supplemental installation kits to use filters that allow you to clean them as well.

I would say if we're talking to you talking it makes a lot of sense to have a filter that can be cleaned however I don't think it cleans as tight as this dual stage fleet guard that I've been using and that Cummins recommends .

Oil talk and get pretty interesting and involved and everybody has a different opinion.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

I ran the Amsoil Bypass system on my truck for many years but never saw any real benefit. My UOA always indicated changing as recommended by the Manuf, and after removing it (was contemplating a twin turbo setup and needed the space) I have not noticed any differences in my UOA.

Another reason for me looking into this now is that I'm contemplating either changing my turbo or going with some compounds as well. I've heard that people with compounds like a remote mount for their oil filter even if they're not using a bypass system.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Our engines are happy with just occasionally new oil and a standard filter, they won't last any longer by these additional filter kits. It is a basic industrial turbo diesel engine that runs around the world under that worst conditions and with any diesel engine oil that is available right there and excels.

I used the LF9028 for some time to extend the oil change intervals which it was designed for. But went back to regular intervals after some time because engine oil is so cheap.

Yeah I'm doing the Blackstone thing now specially after I did my head gasket and put the 165 Plus head studs in they were like $2,000. 20 year old engine, it's been my daily driver in Florida and I'll be moving to Montana soon which will be quite the difference. I am running power adders although I haven't been able to afford a turbo yet or injectors. Running the 12 TBN 15W40 Amsoil diesel marine oil I used to use their filter until I found out that flea card made a better one and they say that you can run their oil for a ridiculous amount of miles I was hoping I could get at least half that.

What do you consider our service interval to be when you're dumping two and a half gallons of Amsoil in the truck, I was someone pleased with the idea of running someone longer intervals as long as I'm doing Labs on it.
I almost have 270,000 miles on the engine I just had all of my valves valve springs head gasket rockers upgraded to the new style of rocker. This truck is never going to be for sale however I don't intend to drive it like a grandma and I'd like to add a moderate amount of power to it without reducing its life.
What is the absolute advertised ideal service interval versus the higher end of what we think that it's safe to extend it to?

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

What do we think is the recommended service interval for oil?
What would be considered to be the higher end service in the world for people that are running good oil which I found to be the Amsoil 12 TBN 1540 and the fleet guard filter.
And would we based on our anecdotal experience push that a little further if there was a bypass system on it as well?

 

[slowmover]

Do you have a link for something resembling the centrifuge system that you used on your setup?
That sounds pretty interesting.

You were also the only person to mention SHTF. Looks like you figured me out. I run Amsoil 12 TBN 15W40. Just the liquid is 120 bucks and the fleet guard double stage filter that Cummins now recommends for his engines well those are 50 bucks.
You talking about a centrifuge for cleaning oil off of the truck are you talking about a centrifuge that operates as the engine operates?
Also I have seen these reusable oil filters that you can essentially just clean a screen which is what I'm used to seeing on aircraft engines and the filtration on aircraft and since they're so good that just based on the amount of oil that comes out of the engine during servicing we never have to do oil changes we just clean that screen reinstall it about 20 to 30% of the capacity comes out and the oil always looks like it's the same color.

Keep in mind that turbo props are essentially diesel engines in a way as jet a also known as Aviation kerosene as well as kerosene and petrol diesel are all sort of like cousins. I've actually run plenty of jet fuel in my truck although it's a heck of a lot dryer so I had some lubricity to it it's almost like giving it a tune-up. But I digress.

These turbo drops with their production gear boxes and accessory cases and various bearings that have oil ports heading to them don't exactly live easy lives either and they're producing somewhere in the range of 2400 foot pounds of torque for something that probably weighs about the same amount as our engine does on the smaller side for things like King airs and 1900s the pt6 is probably the most popular type of problem in the world.
But even on the larger she e ct7 same thing and even on straight up jet engines, oil changes really aren't required and they all have a cleanable screen filter.

I also work on reciprocating engines that have rings and combustion Chambers some of them are diesel and they do run on jet a. And the oil looks different and additionally they use the throwaway filters however there are supplemental installation kits to use filters that allow you to clean them as well.

I would say if we're talking to you talking it makes a lot of sense to have a filter that can be cleaned however I don't think it cleans as tight as this dual stage fleet guard that I've been using and that Cummins recommends .

Oil talk and get pretty interesting and involved and everybody has a different opinion.

https://www.alliedreliability.com/spinner-ii-oil-cleaning-centrifuges

Then something similar to HUBB 8505, but full-flow/low-restriction. (Let centrifuge get small stuff).

Plenty of reading to do (example):

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fleetguard-centrifugal-separator-ch41102-anyone.227434/

I think most wind up with something simpler.

https://4wdmechanix.com/tag/frantz-filter/

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