Here I am

Cab Clearance Lights - After the fact?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Fuel Line Upgrage--retaining test ports-?

Sad Story/Happy Ending

Status
Not open for further replies.
My 96 2500/v10 had cab clearance lights. My 01 2500/Cummins has none. I haven't asked my dealer if these can be installed after manufacture, and I'm a little leery of anything that requires the interior to be dismantled. I don't want any rattles or leaks.

Does anyone know if these can be installed after-market?

Thanks again.

David
 
Hey... my lucky day...

I have inquired about that too. It sure can be done although I've heard different stories about the wiring already being there and something else about having to change out the headlight switch. In short, it can be done, but I haven't yet done it... I also have the fear of the interior not fitting properly after the install... . or worse... that one of the lights is crooked or something. . #ad
 
Well guys,

I added cab clearance lights on my 98. 5, and the hardest part was aligning the paper teplate on the roof. But after about 45 minutes of screwin' with it, I got it lined up, and I made the marks for the holes...

Then came the drilling... Drilling that beautiful green roof made me sick... #ad
Each light needs 3 holes, 2 for screws, and 1 for the wiring.

After you do all of that, and get the lights mounted, start taking apart the interior. Take off both pieces of A-pillar trim, the sunshades, and the overhead console. The headliner must be pulled down at the front only. It is not necessary to take the whole thing down. So after you get it partially down, run the wiring, and connect it to the lights... Now you are ready for final connections...

This is where I ran into a snag with my 98. 5. In the "directions," it says to put the positve wire into an open cavity on a brown connector that goes to the overhead console. Sounds pretty simple, right? *LOL* It is simple only on paper! The little brown connector is located waaaaay up under the dash, and you need 7 elbows and some extra fingers to get it out... So after dozens of 4-letter words later, I get the connector out, and add the wire to it. I put the connector back together, and presto, the lights [b'don't[/b] come on...

I checked all of my connections at the lights, and everything was ok. The problem was in the lil brown connector way up inside the dash... Turns out some trucks have the procision for cab lights, and others dont... And, well, mine was one of the ones that didn't have it. DC idiots! I wanted to kick some DC engineer butt! #ad
Anyways... So I had to fold my arm into a pretzel again to get the connector out, and take the wire out of it. To fix the problem, I simply wired the lights into the parking light circuit under the dash on the 72-way connector. I found the black wire with a yellow tracer, stripped off some insulation, and center spliced the cab light wire to it. I taped it up, put it all back together, and the lit up perfect, all 5 of them! Looked like this:

#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad


Good luck guys!

***Needless to say, I ordered the lights from the factory on my 2001. ***

BOMBED
------------------


<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">

<font color="#000080" size="2" face="Tahoma">

Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers

</font></p>

<font color="#800040" size="2" face="Tahoma">

'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Mopar rubber mats, Cummins badging, SPA Technique boost & pyro gauges. 5,250 miles since 4/26/00! Look for me on AOL as “Beck2500!”
</font></p>

<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Tahoma">

<marquee> Check out NW PUNK for more info! </marquee>
</font></p>

[This message has been edited by Evan A. Beck (edited 07-07-2000). ]
 
The forums are a little messed up ... I just added the kit to my Y2k, and detailed a lot of my experiences.

Like Evan mentioned . . remove the rubber molding from around the doors, remove the A pillar covers (they pry off), there are some rubber covers over 2 torx screws for the passenger side assist handle. Then remove the visors and clips . . the headliner easily comes down.

There is one gotcha with this method. The ground wire in the harness is designed to be attached to a grounding screw in the roof. Since you really only have enough room to manouver the wiring harness . . you need to extend the ground wire . . piece of cake down the drivers side A pillar.

Additionally . . I used an auxillary relay . . everyone here recommended this highly. The wire from pin 8 of the plug . . feed the coil and I ran a fused 10 amp circuit through the load contacts then to the wiring harness.

As Evan mentioned . . that plug is really under the dash. If you pull the fuse cover there is a blue relay . . directly behind that area of the fuse panel . . is that "brown" socket.

Don't let me scare you . . sounds like a lot . . but its really not that bad. 2 hours + a little for pickin up the mess.

The hardest part was drilling and mounting that center lamp. Evan . . wouldn't you agree? Boy was that a b_tch!

But my wiring instructions from the kit were correct . . the only dievation from the install instructions was the addition of the relay.

Its worth the effort!! #ad


Michael
 
Light Kit, Running, Part # 82205120
This is a DC/Mopar#

------------------
'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, 300 injectors, JRE III power kit, 4" turbo to tail system, boost/pyro, did I mention 12 valves? GOT DIESEL?

[This message has been edited by old school (edited 07-16-2000). ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top