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Cab Fumes - Dealer Solution Proposal

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MPG @ 3000 mi.

Sensor Performance / Rationality

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I experianced cab fumes when external HVAC is on. I also lacked plugs in the frame rails, taped instead from factory. At my first oil change (free from dealer!) I pointed out the missing frame rail plugs. The dealer ordered them and installed them - no charge.



I followed the discussion threads on fumes and absent plugs in the HVAC cowling and am guessing they may be related to absent plugs in the frame rails. If they ran out of one, they may have run out of both during assembly. The frame rails are externally apparent by looking underneath, the cowling requires disassembly to determine if present or not.



Here is what I did. I took my truck in on the transmission cooling line recall and explained to the service techician that I though the cowling plugs could be missing. I told him that I wanted them to remove the cowling and check for the plugs. If the plugs were there, I would pay the dealer the cost of removal and replacement. If the plugs were missing, then it is Chrysler's fault and they pay the dealer. The dealer/technician agreed.



The plugs were missing. They ordered plugs and will install them - Chrysler picks up the bill.



I had asked for the cowling parts description from their parts department. I combined that the pictures from: http://www.rounsevell.com/blowby.pdf . Both helped the technician, by demonstrating the part was supposed to be there according to assembly diagrams, and demonstrated pictorially where they were absent.



I will post results after the plugs are put in. I am interested in polling how many trucks, missing frame rail plugs, experiance cab fumes.
 
Its sad that with the amount of money we have all spent on these trucks, D/C still has seemed to cut as many corners as possible to save a few bucks at OUR expence. . . Rubber plugs replaced bt tape or worse yet, nothing at all, Paint not applied correctly or not at all in some places, and the couldnt care less attitude of the 5 Star dealers and the D/C reps.

My latest pieve is that the latest recall about the defective trans lines and trans cooler, my 5 star dealer couldnt care less and claims that I get to wait a month until they can get to it. I also get to rent a car if I want to return home as they claim that they need my truck for 1 or 2 days to do this 30 min job. This my friends is a JOKE!
 
Don't beat up on Dodge. The dealer could be busy and since it's not a "safety" recall, there's no hurry.



Also, it's not just dodge that's cheaping out. I have Ford Windstar and it's a piece of crap. I got the run around from dealers also. I had to go to three dealers before I could get one that agreed with me that I had a bad cv joint at 30k. I'm not saying that Dodge is great, but they're just like the rest.
 
CFenton, thanks for the info I too get fumes in the cab. When I installes my nerf bars, I noticed I also have tape vice plugs in my frame.



Is the dealer required to install plugs as part of the warranty or do they do it out of the goodness in their heart?



Does anyone know if there is a TSB or a warranty type fix for the cab fumes?

I've had my truck since the end of January, I have the ability to fix it myself, but after paying my left arm for the truck I don't think I should have to.
 
I also have diesel smell in cab But do not know yet if cowl plugs are missing, The ones under the truck are not there ( just tape ).

750 miles on truck
 
CFenton, great detective work and great attachment. Would it be safe to assume that if one is missing the plugs from the frame rail that they're probably missing the plugs under the cowling? Maybe it would be helpful to post a pic showing where the frame rail plugs are supposed to be. Just seems easier than removing the cowling.
 
Originally posted by KKlepfer

CFenton, great detective work and great attachment. Would it be safe to assume that if one is missing the plugs from the frame rail that they're probably missing the plugs under the cowling? Maybe it would be helpful to post a pic showing where the frame rail plugs are supposed to be. Just seems easier than removing the cowling.



I don't think that's a safe assumption. I have tape on the rockers, but no diesel fumes in the cab. 5000 miles on the truck. Unless the plugs are the same, there is no reason to think that there is a relationship between one or the other or both being missing.
 
Reverse side of the rocker panels on the vertical. On the quadcab it is eight to a side covered with tape or a rubber grommet. The holes are oblong about 2x4.



jr
 
Don't count on your "diesel" smell disapearing with the addition of the plugs under the cowl, mine didn't get better until I added 4 feet to the engine breather hose.



You can read more here with pictures.



http://www.nwbombers.com/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=20;t=5826





BTW one of the rubber plugs with the drain is not available for order by Dodge or it's dealers I took the part in and they said maybe a wrecked truck.....
 
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Here is the missing part you can't order... . Hey maybe if I complain enough somebody from the line will mail me one... ... ;)
 
If you are going to install the 55276332AB, be sure you cut about 3/8" off the bottom. Otherwise the flap will plug the drain hole, and you will end up with potential water leak and debris.

Also plug the oval holes above and in front of the drains with aluminum tape. Seal the cowl to cowl cover with 1/8" foam tape all the way across. The fix is about 80% effective. Now with 8000 miles and oil being changed at 6500, (smell will always come back after oil change for a while) I hardly smell anything.

And quit worrying about the sill plugs. That is a wet panel anyway, and water and junk can and will get in there. If you look, there are drain holes below the plugs. Putting in plugs is just a waste of time. Besides, it's galvanized steel anyway.
 
I know my fix will eventially plug up so in a couple three years I will open it up and clean it out. By then I hope I will have another flapper part so I can trash my home made one.



The cab smell is almost never back only when the wind carries the blow-by or exaust into the cowl
 
Cab Fumes Follow-up End of Story

Sorry this follow-up took so long; work, computer failure, vacation, etc.

I took the truck in when the parts/plugs came in. Wrong plugs for the cowling. These where a different set of plugs for the left and right interior fender pannels. The previous entries validate the cowling plugs are no longer a valid part.

I have very high praise for my dealer: Cueter Dodge, Ann Arbor. These guys did serious research and suffered the expense of this venture. Well above the call of duty. My cost in this was nothing, zero.

So, my hypothesis was wrong. The service tech's said Dodge and Cummins said you may get some fumes/smell in the cab. My guess is the part listed above would get somehow stuck to the inside panel and then in combination with junk (like cottonwood) sucked in would plug the drain and flood the cab. Dodge elected fumes over flooded cab; again, just my guess.

I will probably route the breather back to mid-truck. The Cueter tech suggested that as a best alternative.
 
I run my AC on Max all the time to keep the outside air out of the evaporator as much as possible. Pollen and dirt along with salty sea air around here make acid slime in the evaporator housing. The acid slowly eats away at the evaporator as it sits in it's own slime for years never completely drying out. Then when it gets a pinhole in it, Dodge wants over $750 to replace it and the local auto repair shop wants over $1100. The mechanic said to give a shot of Lysol down the cowl vents with the AC on outside air until you smell the Lysol in the cab. Then shut it off for a couple of hours. It'll help kill the acid producing bacteria in the slime pool at the bottom of the evaporator housing and may help the evaporator last a little longer. Just my $. 02...
 
I too mostly use MAX A/C-I just leave the AC on all the time, and have for years-I have only replaced one compressor in a car and that was before I left it on all the time-and it failed in the winter-the clutch bearing went out and overheated and burned all the seals out. When I used the defroster I switch back to MAX AC as soon as possible...
 
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