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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cab Light Installation Question

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Wheel studs?

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TWhiteside

TDR MEMBER
The installation of the cab lights went well with the help of Larry Willard. - Thanks again Larry!!.



The question is: Who has installed cab lights and was able to get the plug out of the back of the distribution panel to put the +12volt wire into slot 8 of the plug? I have had my hand every way I can think of under that dash and cannot get that plug unplugged from the socket. Does it take a special tool?



Thanks -
 
I did, but....

Tom:



I got the plug out and got the new plug in. It was the longest part of the installation. You have to be a contortionist, be patient and lucky.



Haven't seen a locked-in date for the MD-TDR Nov wrenching session; I'll give ya a "hand" with it if you don't get it by then. You can call and come by if you don't want to wait that long.



See ya, Wiredawg
 
Name the time - Name the place

Wiredawg - I'll take you up on the offer. In fact, if the Wrenching Date is too far off, maybe I can stop by and let you try your patience.



Thanks,

Tom
 
I tried, my dad tried, a friend or 2 tried, finally we give up and spliced into a wire that was coming out of the light switch, unsure of witch one we used. but they are working great with no problems.
 
Tom,



Aside from that, how was the install? I have been thinking of doing this to mine. Any tips you want to pass on? I figured the wife might like a set of clearance lights for Christmas.



-Vic
 
I couldn't even see where to plug that sucker in, I too just went with wiring it to the light control knob. Forgot which wire it was???
 
Cab Light plug.....

Been there and done that two times!!!:eek: Yes you gotta have small hands as well as being a contortionist:rolleyes:

Persistence will pay off. it's a b***h! You'll get it,keep the faith.



Phil S
 
yelloweyes I got my light kit from the local dealer. The kit comes with everything you need even a template that you tape to the top of the cab that helps you drill your holes. It tells you to take that headliner out. but I just dropped my down enough that I wouldn't hit it with the drill bit. Drill your holes and install the lights hook up the wires and then the hard part trying to get that plug out the fuse box. The dealer kit comes with a new plug that you can slip into the fuse box but I was unable to get the old plug out in order to put the new one in. The light install took maybe 2 hours with most of the time checking and double checking to make sure I was about to drill in the right spot. Its not that bad of a job after you drill the first hole in the roof of your new truck, because you know after that first hole their is no turning back. :D
 
I didn't remove the connector, I simply (ok way understated)... After cramped hands and cussing for nearly 15 minutes, I managed to install the wire with the connector in place under the dash from the backside with needle nose pliers. ALSO "BIG TIP" Use a 7/8" holesaw to drill the middle hole not a drill bit as it will grab and tear the roof, a holesaw makes it a lot cleaner.
 
Mission Accomplished

Guys:



It takes two to really do this right. TWhiteside and I fixed his truck in around 30 min. The trick is to remove the lower plastic part of dash and have your helper carefully bend back the plastic in front of where the fuse panel is. While your helper holds the plastic back and a flashlight to see, use a skinny long handled screwdriver to push in and leverage the connector out of the back of the fuse block. Contort your hand up to pull it out and down, pry up the connector lock, push the cab light lead in, push the connector lock down, take the plug and contort your hand back insid the dash while pushing the plug in.



And there it is.



There were a couple of uneccessary details where I had forgotten how the plug worked, so I broke the pin off in it trying to push it in with needlenose pliars without removing the connector. I then used the step above to remove the connector from the fuse housing and I repaired the pin with solder and proceeded to do it correctly.



Hope this helps the rest of you who might be considering this project.



Wiredawg
 
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Installed mine today....

Bigstick -



NOW YOU TELL ME!!! Man, we had a hell of a time installing my cab clearance lights today. We used a 7/8" drill bit (after using progressively larger starter bits), and you're right, it grabs if you drill slowly. The first hole was a nightmare. After that one, we put a heavy layer of masking tape just above where the bit tapers out to it's full width. That way, we could drill high speed and not worry about the bit getting sucked into the roof - worked well.



The second major problem we ran into was those cheap-ass white inserts you put in to the holes that the screws go into. We followed the instructions to the "T" and those damn things just spun in the holes as we tried to turn the screws in. :mad: We ended up holding the white inserts from below with pliers while we turned the screws in. What a PIA! I don't know what I'm gonna do if a bulb ever burns out - probably have to sell the truck! Anyone else have this problem??? I'm gonna start another thread on this issue because I need to fix it right.



Third problem was that damn plug behind the fuse panel. We gave up after an hour of jerking with it. We ended up splicing into the black/yellow wire coming off of the headlight swich.



After a LONG day, the lights are on and working. So much for that 2 hour project!!!



Steve
 
As Wiredawg indicated, we did get the plug out and the wire inserted and all is good.



I agree that the drill bit will catch. I almost had a nice hole in the headliner from it grabbing. We then resorted to lots of tape on the drillbit and holding the headliner down.



Larry and I had a similiar experience with the little white screw tabs spinning. On one, Larry did have to hold it from the inside while I put the screw in from the top. When the others started to spin, I just put a little more down pressure on the screw. Just be careful, if the screwdriver slips, you could end up with an extra hole or at least a really bad scratch on the roof.



Thanks to all who responded and especially - Larry Williard and Wiredawg!!!!!



P. S. The team to have for the installs is Larry Willard and Wiredawg!!!
 
One last thang...

Guys:



With regards to the cheap little white inserts: Use a drill bit that is a tad smaller than the inserts. Then, put clear RTV on the inserts and push in. Install all of the inserts and let 'em set a while. You can run the wires down to the fuse panel and knok that out. Then, put a small bead of RTV on the bottom of the amber plastic lenses. Put a dap pf RTV around the heads of the screws and run 'em in, careful about not being too tight.



I'm in the comm business and have been working with plastic anchors for 25 years.



Well, everyone have fun



Wiredawg
 
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