Cam & Lifter question

[WOT]

Poking around Piers website at Cams I see that there are no lifters offered for '03 and up. Looking in the service manual for my '05 I see they are listed as tappets. Are the '03 and up truly tapets (non-hydraulic)? I have always been under the impression that if you put in a new cam you replace the lifters (or tappets), is that not the case on the '03 and up?



Thanks,

Bob

 

[Tinman]

If the truck has less that 50K miles, lifters aren't necessary. I have one on the way from PDR and I didn't get lifters. I'm at 40K.

 

[rbattelle]

Indeed, these engines use tappets (solid lifters) rather than hydraulic lifters. I've always assumed most (all?) diesels use solid lifters.

Ryan

 

[CKelley1]

tinman you will love that pdr cam it will give you 2+mpg and an entirely different feel

 

[WOT]

If the truck has less that 50K miles, lifters aren't necessary. I have one on the way from PDR and I didn't get lifters. I'm at 40K.

What about if you are over 50K? Is Cummins the only place to get lifters or does Piers carry them but just not list them on their site?

 

[Tinman]

I'm looking forward to the cam. I went ahead and got a spearco intercooler too.



If you need lifters, you can get them from Cummins for <10$ each I think.

 

[moonranch]

When I got my PDR cam, I purchased lifters from them at the same time. I called in the order, maybe they just don't list it on their website.

 

[AMcCormick]

I've been thinking about this mod as well. How hard would this be to install your self? The actuall cam is not that spendy.

 

[WOT]

I've been thinking about this mod as well. How hard would this be to install your self? The actuall cam is not that spendy.

It was covered in issue 54 and doesn't look too difficult. There are a couple special tools needed and there is a risk of dropping a lifter into the oil pan which would be unpleasant.

 

[Tinman]

I'm planning on doing it myself so I'll let you know in a few weeks.

 

[WOT]

I'm planning on doing it myself so I'll let you know in a few weeks.

Too bad you aren't a bit closer we could have a cam replacement party . I'm in NC.

 

[brods]

Anybody get theirs in yet?



How bad is it to do the lifters at home? Sounds like a PITA.



Does the oil get a lot less sooty with the new cam?

 

[Motorhead]

Do the lifter holding sticks fit under the body ledge on the third gen truck?

 

[jbucha4]

does anyone have the website for the camshaft?

 

[NDaniels]

Install is here (pretty useful thread):https://www.turbodieselregister.com...003-2007/150432-cam-install-3rd-gen-pics.html Also the TDR article is very useful.



I wouldn't change tappets unless the cam shows abnormal wear- I did my 98. 5 around 105k and it looked good. I reused my tappets with no problems. I just got another helix2 for my 05 along with some of Don's springs. I'll try to hold off until spring for the install- I'll see if I can wait

 

[Tinman]

I finished my cam install a few weeks ago. It's not hard, just tedious and time consuming for the uninitiated. One of the best things you can do is get one lifter/Tappet (if you are not replacing them) to see how the dowels fit in them. I test fit each dowel I made to make sure it was tight. There are reliefs cut into the coweling for #s 5 and 6. Those dowels where cut shorter also. At 40K my old cam looked pristine. I wouldn't want to lifters if I didn't have to. I got the local Cummins shop to press off and put on (with heat) the cam gear. I am new to welding so I had a hard time with the cross member. I got it welded but I kinda holed it in a few spots. It seemed strong but I bolted it anyway.



Truck runs much better now. Spool in instant with the BB turbo. Smoke is way down. Runs and sounds smoother. Matt400's post is excellent and I used that and the FSM as my guide. So far no issues except my drive belt will slip under heavy throttle now. Don't know why, but I just got a new one. I don't have any good mileage data yet. I put a Spearco IC in while I was at it and promptly loaded Smarty SW#9

 

[MRFost]

Would it be just as well to pull the engine and work on it like a gentleman (on the stand) vs. cutting the truck to get to the cam? I'd like the PDR cam as well, and I'd probably call them to see if it would have bad match to the Smarty Jr. that I'm already running. I certainly wouldn't want to have bad interactions, and I'd certainly want no more smoke. I can generally keep the smoke in now for the most part.

I've just thought that pulling the engine and then not needing to buy special tools seemed like the best way to do it. I imagine that it'd take longer to do that way. I guess I'd have to buy a head gasket if I disassembled the engine vs. doing it with the engine in the truck. I presume that the cam is an easy swap if the engine is out and you pull the head...

 

[brods]

The factory service manual recommends jacking the motor up for the cam to clear the core support, so it isn't mandatory to cut the truck. Pulling the motor and then the head would entail lots more work, as well as a serious engine hoist and engine stand. Not sure what special tools you you'd avoid needing by doing it that way. Just the wooden dowels?

 

[Tinman]

Besides the dowels, the only "special" tool is the half cylinder type tool used to get the tappets in and out. The miller kit comes with that and the dowels. Yes you can jack up the motor. Seem like a lot more trouble to me. Pulling the engine would be a lot of hassle with no really benefit. The only real trick is getting the cam gear on and off.



There should be not problems with the smarty jr and the cam. I run the smarty (same programing, less power levels) and the cam really reduced the smoke. I've been very dissappointed in the smarty smoke and the cam makes it tolerable (not desirable) now. I'd say the smoke is down at least 50% if not more for my truck.

 

[ENafziger]

Would it be just as well to pull the engine and work on it like a gentleman (on the stand) vs. cutting the truck to get to the cam?

Like has been said, it is very easy to remove the cam without any cutting or welding. Simply remove the two motor mount bolts, and lift the front end of the engine up enough for the cam gear to clear the crossmember.

It's not necessary to buy the expensive Miller kit for the dowels. Just use 1/2" dowel rod, cut to about 16" in length. For cylinders 5 and 6, cut to around 13" or so for clearance.

--Eric