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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Cam Plate question

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission cad replacement

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) sealant for fuel fittings

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My truck has a 180 pump at 15. 5 deg, #6 plate, 330 marine injectors, 4" exhaust with a Walker off-road big truck muffler.



The #6 plate made a big difference but I could only make around 20psi of boost. I installed the 330 marine injectors next. My boost jumped to 30psi with what felt like a huge increase in power.



I have a hybrid Super 40/35 turbo that I will install next. I am very pleased with the 330 injectors but I have no idea what my HP and TQ is.
 
PKirby said:
My truck has a 180 pump at 15. 5 deg, #6 plate, 330 marine injectors, 4" exhaust with a Walker off-road big truck muffler.



The #6 plate made a big difference but I could only make around 20psi of boost. I installed the 330 marine injectors next. My boost jumped to 30psi with what felt like a huge increase in power.



I have a hybrid Super 40/35 turbo that I will install next. I am very pleased with the 330 injectors but I have no idea what my HP and TQ is.



You can adjust the waistgate on the turbo for more boost.
 
Still no answer to my question. I will correct some errors, the 95 did NOT haver EGR and the plate on the side of my engine states 175 hp, not 180. I believe it was late 96 that the EGR went in effect.
 
surfbeetle said:
the plate on the side of my engine states 175 hp, not 180.



The '95 Manual transmission WAS 175hp.

1994 & 1995 Ram / Cummins Horsepower and Torque Curves

Manual Transmission

Compression Ratio: 17. 5:1

Power: 175 bhp @ 2500 rpm

Torque: 420 lb-ft @ 1500 rpm

BHP/Liter: 29. 7

Max. Engine Speed (Governed Speed*) : 2700 rpm

Max. No Load High Idle Engine Speed: 3000 RPM



Scott
 
So the original intent of this thread was when Tom C asked if there was a difference in plates when put into trucks that had different original power ratings. There was talk of the 215 pumps and the 180 pumps. I asked about the California 175 pump and now the thread has been turned into debate over what the CA trucks were. Sorry to cause a thread hijacking.



Now to reiterate my original question (with clarification): Knowing that the CA 12v was originally 175 hp for a 5sp truck, if you drop a #5 plate into the truck, does it end up with the same hp as if you put a #5 plate into a 215 hp truck? Hopefully we can get this thread back on track.
 
surfbeetle said:
Knowing that the CA 12v was originally 175 hp for a 5sp truck, if you drop a #5 plate into the truck, does it end up with the same hp as if you put a #5 plate into a 215 hp truck?



Quick answer is, no.



I assumed you have seen this chart before but in case you have not I will post it here.



This is assuming you installed the plate as per TST directions, in the stock location. On the chart your truck is a 175 engine, same as the rest of the 1995 5 speed engines. There was not a special CA engine in 1995



#ad






As mentioned this chart is merely a guide and for the most part it get's thrown out the window nowdays. Especially since everyone wants to grind their own plates and say they have a 10 or a 0 ect... . :rolleyes:
 
So with a stock 94 auto, the above chart & TST says a #6 plate will not hurt the auto trans, but with all the reading I have done many say it will not be good for it, a #10 is preferred. . but what will the hp/tq be then?

Another question that I have not seen posted, why not add 3gsk with a stock plate? Ken
 
Especially since everyone wants to grind their own plates and say they have a 10 or a 0 ect... .

ditto. Some dont realize how much differene a small error in grinding can make, hp wise.

Besides, 200$ for a plate is a steal. to be able to add that much hp and torque, for 200$, is awesome. Dont get me wrong, I've ground many of my own plates, but I have the Actual #10 from TST, designed by Joe, in my truck right now.



Governor springs dont work with certain plates because of the fueling curve. For instance, a #11. If the governor lever is adjusted enough, you can make it work. the problem is, the springs will cause the foot to ride up the plate slower, per se. So depending on what plate you have, the fueling may come in so late that its un-useable. or perhaps you will never even get in the full fueling curve of the plate, depending on gov lever adjustment, and the rpm range you actually are making use of.



Surfbeetle, I think the confusion is arising from the fact that you are refering to your truck as a CA 95 5-speed. The only time the fact that it comes from cali is pertinent, is when its a 96-98, especially a 5-speed cause then its not 215, its the 180. All of the 94-95 trucks are rated the same, regardless of where they are from. The only diff being 160/175, regarding auto/manual, respectively.



--Jeff
 
Surfbeetle,



After reading everything I'm taking it as a 'no', The same plate in different pumps (175,180, etc) will give different HP/Torque curves. Too many variables ie: DV's, Injectors, GSK, timing, plate position, etc.





Pwerwagn,



Interesting on what you said about the #11 not working well with the 3GSK. My neighbor has the same truck I do other than his is a stick and mine an auto. We both have the 3GSK, AFC springs & same size tires but I have a #10 and he has #11, My truck will walk from his at any speed (TC locked or unlocked). And his truck has the 215 pump and mine the 180. HHHhmmmm. .



PS: I still have the stock exhaust. Muffler and all and my neighbors is a straight pipe.



Any thought why this is happening? :confused:
 
Jim,



What kind a fuel milage do you get with that HP?



Looks like you've tinkered a little with these motors :rolleyes: . What do you think would be a good combination to get 350 - 400HP from with good fuel mileage?
 
With my white truck? 15-16 around town and 18-19 range on the road... . Keep in mind it's low compression and a big cam. Around town I drive it how ever I like to and that is usually aggressive. On the road I'm usually at 70-75, that's with 265 tires and a 3. 54 gear... ... . very streetable at that HP level, still streetable with the big I. I. EDM injectors you just have to pay a little more attention at the initial start off. We'll see how the new cam changes that!



Jim
 
Jim,

Have a 10 I am wanting to try with my setup. Understand it may be too much for towing. Your opinion please.

Smitty
 
Smitty,

I run a #10 while towing with no problem. we have a similar turbo too. The only thing is, a 10 will smoke your stock clutch in short order. My stock clutch held the 11 fine, then with the 11 only about . 020 foward it would slip the clutch in 5th. The clutch had no chance with the 10.

The 11 worked better for smoke control while towing. But I still prefer the 10 to tow. I use the 0 when im at the strip or something.



Pwerwagn,Interesting on what you said about the #11 not working well with the 3GSK. My neighbor has the same truck I do other than his is a stick and mine an auto. We both have the 3GSK, AFC springs & same size tires but I have a #10 and he has #11, My truck will walk from his at any speed (TC locked or unlocked). And his truck has the 215 pump and mine the 180. HHHhmmmm. .



You guys might wanna try playing with the gov lever adjustment with the 11. It would make a tremendous difference in the way my truck acted when I had the 11 in it. With the 10, I dont notice much difference when playing with the adjustment. With something like a 0, there will be no difference as long as the lever isnt going under the plate ever.



--Jeff
 
The only thing bad about a 10 is when it comes on it for real, but you can slide it back along way. I think you will like it better overall.



Jim
 
OK, I think I will try the 10 for a while. I have an upgraded clutch, though only slightly better than stock. I also watch the egt's and keep them under control with the right foot. I have the 11 slightly forward and will start with the 10 centered. May be a few weeks before I tow again and will post some results, if I can remember. Senior moments seem to be getting more frequent.

Thanks, Smitty
 
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