Cam shaft postion sensor test

[SMalafy]

Can anyone tell me how to check my csps on my 95 12 valve. I can not find anything in the service manual for a diesel model only the gas jobs

 

[SMalafy]

This is on my old truck which is not on the road, not the truck listed below the first post !

 

[BigPapa]

The 12-Valves don’t have a Camshaft Position Sensor. Your ‘01 does. Are you having a problem?

 

[DavidC]

Probably means crank sensor ?

 

[BigPapa]

Well, it don’t have me of those either. That would be the ESS, Engine Speed Sensor.

 

[DavidC]

Well, it don’t have me of those either. That would be the ESS, Engine Speed Sensor.

Scott, you getting technical with me .

 

[SMalafy]

The 12-Valves don’t have a Camshaft Position Sensor. Your ‘01 does. Are you having a problem?

Yes ,My old truck will not turn over and the last time that happened was when the sensor above the fly wheel went bad and left me stranded on the side of the road. I tied the shut off solenoid back and was able to get it running and drive home and replaced that sensor and it ran fine. Now even with the shut off solenoid tied back it still will not start !

 

[SMalafy]

Well, it don’t have me of those either. That would be the ESS, Engine Speed Sensor.

Yea maybe thats the name of it on the front of the engine above the fly wheel.

 

[BigPapa]

Is the starter turning the engine over and it won't start or is the starter not engaging?

With the solenoid tied up, it should start unless it's not getting fuel or the timing has slipped. If the ESS is bad, the tach won't work, the alternator won't charge, and the A/C won't work. It has nothing to do with the engine starting or running.

 

[SMalafy]

Is the starter turning the engine over and it won't start or is the starter not engaging?

With the solenoid tied up, it should start unless it's not getting fuel or the timing has slipped. If the ESS is bad, the tach won't work, the alternator won't charge, and the A/C won't work. It has nothing to do with the engine starting or running.

Yes the starter is turning the motor over and it will not fire ! It did for a few times (5 or 6) when I tied the solenoid back and now nothing.

 

[GAmes]

The lever that the FSS pulls up is clamped to a shaft. That shaft has woodruff key which can get sheared. When that happens the lever moves but the shaft doesn't, resulting in no fuel. If you look on top of the p-pump you can see a shaft sticking up about 1/2 inch. That is the other end of the fuel shutoff shaft. If the woodruff key is not sheared you can see the top shaft rotate when you actuate the lever.

 

[SMalafy]

The lever that the FSS pulls up is clamped to a shaft. That shaft has woodruff key which can get sheared. When that happens the lever moves but the shaft doesn't, resulting in no fuel. If you look on top of the p-pump you can see a shaft sticking up about 1/2 inch. That is the other end of the fuel shutoff shaft. If the woodruff key is not sheared you can see the top shaft rotate when you actuate the lever.

I will take a look at that tomorrow then and see if that is the problem. Thank you all for the replies !

 

[GAmes]

This might help. Pictured is the rod with the tip of the screwdriver resting against it. I tried to take the picture at about the same angle as you would be looking between the pump and the engine. As you can see it is below the front edge of the AFC cover.

 

[SMalafy]

This might help. Pictured is the rod with the tip of the screwdriver resting against it. I tried to take the picture at about the same angle as you would be looking between the pump and the engine. As you can see it is below the front edge of the AFC cover.

View attachment 125281

This engine layout might be different than mine in the old 95 as I can not see what the screw driver is pointing at as it looks like it is toward the front of the engine. What is P-pump, the primer pump ?

 

[GAmes]

The p-pump is the injection pump. (The P-7100 pump is commonly called a p-pump) The picture is a pump I have in the shop with a screwdriver tip resting on the shaft. You'll need a light source to see under the engine intake shelf to see the top of the pump. The fuel line under the screw driver is the return line out of the OFV.

 

[SMalafy]

The p-pump is the injection pump. (The P-7100 pump is commonly called a p-pump) The picture is a pump I have in the shop with a screwdriver tip resting on the shaft. You'll need a light source to see under the engine intake shelf to see the top of the pump. The fuel line under the screw driver is the return line out of the OFV.

Got it ! I will look later on today as I have a appt and it is only 29 deg outside right now but will be much warmer tomorrow.

 

[SMalafy]

The p-pump is the injection pump. (The P-7100 pump is commonly called a p-pump) The picture is a pump I have in the shop with a screwdriver tip resting on the shaft. You'll need a light source to see under the engine intake shelf to see the top of the pump. The fuel line under the screw driver is the return line out of the OFV.

The shaft is moving when I move the FSS so that is OK

 

[BigPapa]

I'll wager it's a fuel issue. Have you pumped the primer button on the lift pump? You may have the notorious fuel return line issue allowing the fuel to drain back and the lift pump to lose it's prime. It may take MANY strokes to get it back. I use a piece of an old broom handle @ 2' long to pump mine. Much easier than trying to reach down there and do it with your hand.

 

[SMalafy]

I'll wager it's a fuel issue. Have you pumped the primer button on the lift pump? You may have the notorious fuel return line issue allowing the fuel to drain back and the lift pump to lose it's prime. It may take MANY strokes to get it back. I use a piece of an old broom handle @ 2' long to pump mine. Much easier than trying to reach down there and do it with your hand.

I did have a problem 1 time when I was trying to sell the engine showing it to a prospective buyer. Started up the truck and after a few seconds he told me shut it off. Showed me there was fuel leaking from around the top of the fuel filter. Changed the filter but it did not help or stop the leak. I felt back there with my hands and could not find a crack in the lines. Then I started to move it again and the leak stopped . The next time is when it would not start at all and I tied up the FSS and was able to move it several times and again no leak. I will try tomorrow to prime the pump and maybe even remove the F- filter and look back there again to see if I have a bad piece of line.

 

[BigPapa]

There was a lot of info on it here:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/help-fuel-problem.267506/page-2#post-2654668