Camper hold downs

[GFritsch]

No, the camper will not clear without "dually brackets" on the front camper legs. The legs have a hinge, which allows them to swing away from the camper. With a dually there is also possible conflict with the tie downs interfering with the dually fenders. In our case I needed to build an extension piece that allows the tie down point to change. I think I have some pics in my readers rig regarding this. I used a 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 inch angle iron and bolted it to the front and rear camper hold down holes extending it as needed to create new tie down points. This also allowed me to relocate the front tie down point allowing the fuel door to open without hitting.



As far as the frame twisting, I suppose it is possible no matter how the camper is attached. It would just be transferring through the bed otherwise.



Good luck,

Greg



On edit, here is a link to Dave Pelletier's readers rigs with better pics of the dually modification for the tie down points. (Not needed on all campers)



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=9905&albumid=16256

 

[SRehberg]

I have the Torklifts mounted on the rear of my dually and they fit just fine, even on the closest adjustment point. If I wanted, they have another spot to allow further extension but I figured shorter was stronger.



As far as frame twisting, I don't see how that's possible. The front brackets have arms that go up and attach to the bed structural member giving support to the hold down. It would have to punch through the bed or lift the bed to even begin rotating the frame if that was even possible. They're pretty sturdy hold downs.



Good luck.

 

[jmtandem]

You will probably pull the anchors out of the camper lomg before before you twist the truck frame. Go to www.rv.net/forum and there is a section on truck campers that covers about anything you would ever want to know

 

[wedodgediesel]

as far the truck frame being a problem... I would think the tie downs would fail long before. as far as clearing the dually fenders you need to have swing away brackets on the front legs. I had happijack on my '01, just brought an '06 and installed torklift tiedowns. I noticed much improved handling with my Lance 1161.

 

[Grizzly]

When I purchased my 98 Lance, the dealer installed the Happijac tie downs system with the bar on my 95 Dodge dually. I also had a rubber mat on the bed. The truck and camper went from coast to coast and through many miles of rough terrain without any problems. My new truck, 05, was equipped with a new Happijac system for the new generation truck. I have had no problems with the way it is. This truck and camper are going to Alaska this August. I have the factory installed bedliner with a rubber mat on top in the bed My question is, should I remove the bedliner for better stability of the camper?

 

[DKlimas]

fkovalski,

You would use 'swing-out' brackets with your jacks for a dually.

As another alternative check this link for my custom frame mount brackets.



Cheers, Dave

 

[GFritsch]

fkovalski,

You would use 'swing-out' brackets with your jacks for a dually.

As another alternative check this link for my custom frame mount brackets.



Cheers, Dave

Great info on your link. I have a Bigfoot as well and had to do some of the mods you describe for tie down point relocate. I am particularly interested in the electrical power mods. I run 4 blue top batts and was considering a set up just as you describe to be independant of a generator. Now I just need to talk to an electrician friend to help me decipher.



Thanks,

Greg

 

[Grizzly]

How stable is my Lance camper with a rubber mat on top of the factory equip, under the rail, bedliner? Without both, the bedliner and the rubber mat, my camper will sit on the rail caps at the rear of the bed. On the new generation Dodge, the rear rail height is taller then the front rail height for some . dumb reason.

 

[DKlimas]

Grizzly,



While I can't specifically answer the question 'How stable is my... "

If the bedliner is the typical 'hard' slick plastic variety I would remove it and get another rubber mat thick enough to keep your camper clear of the rails. I have heard of some folks using a sheet of plywood with the rubber mat to raise the camper.

IMHO the objective here is to eliminate or at least minimize the tendency for the camper to move/shift. My thoughts are that if you can minimize the ability for camper movement with the use of bumper pads, blocks or other devices along with a 'sticky' mat, the loads the tie down system are exposed to will be greatly reduced since it no longer has to keep the camper from shifting in the bed.



Cheers, Dave

 

[GFritsch]

How stable is my Lance camper with a rubber mat on top of the factory equip, under the rail, bedliner? Without both, the bedliner and the rubber mat, my camper will sit on the rail caps at the rear of the bed. On the new generation Dodge, the rear rail height is taller then the front rail height for some . dumb reason.

In my case I had to use 2 rubber mats with a piece of plywood in between to keep the rear doors from scraping the cab over portion of the camper. Has worked fine. As stated before ditch the plastic bedliner right away. Even w/o a load in the bed they do more damage to the bed than protection. Learned that the hard way on my last truck when I removed it after a couple of years and discovered that the grit and moisture under the liner had caused paint to be removed, and rust to thrive in this protected damp environment. The camper will also sit more secure not flexing around on the plastic liner.



Greg

 

[Rman]

I use a 1/2 inch piece of extruded poly foam to raise my camper a tad, this is to clear my Atwood folddown ball goose hitch. The plate sticks up off the bed a little and I don't want to bust the floor out of my camper. I used plywood for a long time, but the foam does the same without all the weight.

 

[azpete]

Had the plastic bed liner in my 94 and the camper would slide all over the place. When I bought the 01 went looking for a rubber mat and they were not cheap. Found a truck accessories and camper sales dealer with a bunch of mats but none for the Dodge. They had a bunch that looked like they have had for years to fit mid 90's Fords. $40 out the door and just had to cut a couple inches in front of the wheel well to fit nicely.

 

[Grizzly]

Thank You, DKlimas, GFritsch, Rman and azpete. This is some very good advice. I'm going to remove the bedliner and get another rubber mat. I like the idea of finding an old close out and cut to fit mat. Your right, the Happijaks will work much better If I eliminate the slick surface for the camper to slide on. Thanks again.

 

[Rman]

Hey anything for a camper hauler, not too many of those around these days!