2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission camper questions....

[KPotter44]

Well the return trip from Plumas County with the torklift stable loads installed went well. Seems like it leans less when cornering. Also, the truck does not squat down as much in the rear. As far as tie downs, I had already installed the torklift tie downs. The rears utilize the OEM trailer hitch sliding into the open ends. The fronts are designed to bolt to the frame and are pretty beefy. Next will be aftermarket towing mirrors and after that a set of new shocks. Should be the end of the camping season by the time it's all set up. Thanks again for all your input.

 

[Regcabguy]

The Torklift tiedowns are really good. That swaybar and shocks will minimize the lean.

 

[Reddog1]

I have a 1996 2WD 2500 Extended Cab, with auto trans (modified), exhaust brake, and carry a 4200 pound Bigfoot Slide-in Camper. I have no overload springs. I do have Airbags, anti-sway bar, Rancho Shocks, Timbrens (front), and 19.5 tires. I have had this setup since 2004, with over 100,000 miles and made each mod one at a time.

If you are interested, I can tell you how I did each mod and the change it made on my truck.

Wayne

 

[JMcCoy]

I have a 1996 2WD 2500 Extended Cab, with auto trans (modified), exhaust brake, and carry a 4200 pound Bigfoot Slide-in Camper. I have no overload springs. I do have Airbags, anti-sway bar, Rancho Shocks, Timbrens (front), and 19.5 tires. I have had this setup since 2004, with over 100,000 miles and made each mod one at a time.

If you are interested, I can tell you how I did each mod and the change it made on my truck.

Wayne

I think we all would like to know.

 

[Reddog1]

I am having internet difficulties, so I will see how it goes.

I think it is important for me to give everyone an idea of my background, so they can better determine how and why I came to various conclusions. I have had several trucks and slide-in truck campers since 1972. I have installed/used various spring setups, including overload spring packs. I have a very strong mechanical background, with a pretty fair education and rarely hire someone to work on my equipment, and then only is special equipment is required.

Tires - I think this is typically the single most important thing in how your truck handles. Due to expense, tires are usually the last thing addressed. I will ignore the load capacity issues for this discussion, and simply state the softer the sidewall, the greater the flex/squirming of the tire. Most people believe this to be sway. In my opinion and experience it is not sway, and can only be solved with a stiffer sidewall.

Anti-Sway Bar - As the name implies, it eliminates or reduces sway. It has no other function. The larger the bar, the greater the reduction of sway.

Shock Absorbers - Again, I will say, as the name implies, they are intended to absorb shock. They typically play a very small part in reducing sway, and have nothing to do with supporting the load. They have a major role in reducing porpoising, which is related to the truck wheelbase and the concrete slabs at a given speed. This is where incab controllers can be very helpful.

Airbags - They can impact several things on your truck. Simply stated, they carry weight. The best install is individual air valves. The deluxe install would be individual air valves with an in-cab controller. If over inflated, can cause sway. They work with your spring setup, and are not intended to replace the springs. They can be used with most spring setups. Because they are adjustable, they can be used with or without a load on the truck. My primary use is to bring the rear of the truck back to its normal height with the camper loaded. I use the bags to level the truck side to side, especially while camping. Forget to air them down without the camper, and the truck will feel as though it has no rear springs. I have had the same bags since about 2002, with no bag failure. I have damaged both upper mounting brackets hitting speed bumps at too high of a speed.

Springs - Lots of options here depending on your use of the truck, how it was equipper and what you want for a finished ride. I will not go into all of the available add-ons, and will simply say my springs were stock (no overloads) for about seven years. I added a leaf, and am not happy with the change with an empty truck.

Each of the things above will be a little different on each truck, and overall weight. They are all designed to work together. The only regret I have with my suspension is the extra leaf I added to the spring pack. A very small improvement loaded, but too stiff with an empty truck. Regardless of your configuration, I encourage you to keep an open mind, identify what it is you do not like in your trucks road manors, and solve one issue at a time. I am convinced that an anti-sway bar and airbags will always be my first suspension upgrades. Depending on my tire load capacity, the tires could be moved to the top of the list.

Wayne

 

[Grizzly]

Wayne, That is very good advice and very helpful to anyone with a truck camper. Thank you.

In 1974 I had an F250 Ford with a 390 engine and a 4 speed trans. Then I purchased a 10.5' Travel Queen camper, which was very heavy. The sway and handling were miserable. I added overloads, which helped very well. Then a installed HD shock, which made no difference. Then I purchased super single wheels and tires. That made the most difference.

I purchased a new 1995 Dodge DRW, with a Cummins, 5 speed with factory overloads and sway bar. In 98 I purchased a 11' 3" Lance camper. The dually is the answer to carrying a truck camper In 05 I purchased a 05 Dodge DRW, with a Cummins, 6 speed, with overloads. No sway bar. I loaded the same Lance camper. This truck is rock solid with a camper, No sway even when an 18 wheeler passes me from either side. The 05 DRW is much better then the 95 DRW with a camper. I now have a 27' Arctic Fox 5th wheel.

george

 

[Reddog1]

Thanks for the feedback. I was beginning to think no one read my post.

Through the years, I have found that each of us have different comfort levels with the road manors of our vehicles. Some people never feel comfortable hauling Slide In camper. I think the best anyone can do, is to drive their setup. discover what handling charistic they do not like, then research what is required to correct it. Each truck and camper is different enough to require different mods. The basics are the same with all of them.

Wayne

 

[Bill Stockard]

Thanks for the feedback. I was beginning to think no one read my post.

Through the years, I have found that each of us have different comfort levels with the road manors of our vehicles. Some people never feel comfortable hauling Slide In camper. I think the best anyone can do, is to drive their setup. discover what handling charistic they do not like, then research what is required to correct it. Each truck and camper is different enough to require different mods. The basics are the same with all of them.

Wayne

Yes, I went through that "school" beginning in 1986 with a '84 Ford F250, hauling a '86 Lance 9' slide-in camper towing a '86 Ranger bass boat. I too made modifications to the truck as I went along. Heavier rated springs helped the most, but adversely affected the empty ride. The truck wasn't a daily driver and seldom was driven without the camper loaded so a harsher empty ride wasn't a big problem. The biggest improvement in handling was going to a dually.

Bill

 

[Grizzly]

I completely agree Bill about the dually. Been thier done that. I too went through the school of hard knocks.

Thanks again Wayne. I may want to chat with you some more about truck campers.

george

 

[Reddog1]

I had single rear wheels on most of my trucks. I did have a dually (GMC) for over twenty years. It was highly modified, with a 454 and custom transmission and flatbed. The MPG was consistent, 6 to 8. With the exception of the MPG I liked everything about it except when it came time to buy new tires. I made a good buy on my SRW 1996 2500 Dodge. I made many mods to compliment my camper. I am very comfortable with how it handles, having put well over 100,000 with the camper.

Wayne

 

[Reddog1]

Be flattered if I can be of help Grizzly.

Wayne

 

[Bill Stockard]

I had single rear wheels on most of my trucks. I did have a dually (GMC) for over twenty years. It was highly modified, with a 454 and custom transmission and flatbed. The MPG was consistent, 6 to 8. With the exception of the MPG I liked everything about it except when it came time to buy new tires. I made a good buy on my SRW 1996 2500 Dodge. I made many mods to compliment my camper. I am very comfortable with how it handles, having put well over 100,000 with the camper.

Wayne

Before our slide-in camper years, I owned a couple of Chevys with 454 engines and Turbo 400 automatic transmissions. I kept the engines stock and put nearly 500,000 miles combined total miles on the two of them. They consistently got 10 mpg on regular leaded gasoline whether towing our Airstream trailers or running solo. I never had any engine and/or transmission problems and they did an excellent job of towing.

Bill

 

[jeepit]

Currently own an 8.5ft Lance TC and a Jayco G2 26ftTT. The Lance has been in the family since 2006.
Have use for both of these units so for now we have 2 campers. Really like the Lance and the only thing I needed was the Rancho adjustable shocks since we have the camper package with the overloads and swaybar.
Currently have 265 E rated tires.
In preparation for retirement the next Ram will be a 3500 dually!

 

[Grizzly]

You won't regret having a dually jeepit. I'm on my second dually. Before I bought my first dually I was told by a friend that once you have a dually, you'll never go back to a single wheel. My only regret is when I have to buy new tires.

george

 

[sheamc]

The last thing for me is the rear sway bar. I bought the air bags and new bilsteins when got my slide-in. I also have 17" wheels off of a 3rd gen I am putting 265/70s on to minimize some sidewall flex. I have the tork lift frame tie downs and their super hitch with an extension to pull my boat. Their stuff is top notch, just pricey.

Shea

Just wondering, any particular size rear bar I should look into?

 

[Regcabguy]

The airbags simply level the load. The Hellwig Big Wig or smaller will minimize the sway. Even with my popup it made a heck of an improvement.
The Biggie is 1 5/8". My friend used that one for his hardsided camper and I used the standard 1 1/8" model with the popup.

 

[Reddog1]

The last thing for me is the rear sway bar. I bought the air bags and new bilsteins when got my slide-in. I also have 17" wheels off of a 3rd gen I am putting 265/70s on to minimize some sidewall flex. I have the tork lift frame tie downs and their super hitch with an extension to pull my boat. Their stuff is top notch, just pricey.

Shea

Just wondering, any particular size rear bar I should look into?

You want the largest diameter bar they have for your truck, I think it is Roadmaster. I would encourage you to call and confirm which model, do not simply use a chart and order. I belong to a RV Forum, and several folks ordered on the net, just to find out the mounting brackets do not fit their truck. The company was great and responsive and sent them the right stuff, but they did have the drama to go through. Easy problem to avoid, call and let them provide the model number of the bar.

Wayne

 

[jeepit]

Before I purchased my current truck I had driven a dually just to make sure it would fit in my garage.
It did fit but my wife was not liking to drive it...

 

[Grizzly]

The airbags simply level the load. The Hellwig Big Wig or smaller will minimize the sway. Even with my popup it made a heck of an improvement.
The Biggie is 1 5/8". My friend used that one for his hardsided camper and I used the standard 1 1/8" model with the popup.

With all due respect Regcabguy, a Hellwig Big Wig is still an air bag. How is it better that just air bags?

I'll put my money on overloads and anti-sway bars.

george

 

[Regcabguy]

With all due respect Regcabguy, a Hellwig Big Wig is still an air bag. How is it better that just air bags?

I'll put my money on overloads and anti-sway bars.

george

The swaybar keeps the load in a parallel plane with the axle without affecting the ride height or street ride.
I've got Carli's airbags which raise my back end but really act as soft bumpstops.
The addition of my swaybar immensely improved my handling without adding a leaf in my situation..
I added a leaf on my '99 which indeed killed the lean but killed the ride also.
Overloads would help minimize the lean also. Nothing from the factory in a 2500.
My friend extended the stops on the overloads on his '05 3500 so they engage sooner,but he still likes the handling of my '07 better. We carry similar campers. Same 2.5 shocks valved for campers.
You've got the safest,most practical suspension for carrying a hardsided camper or towing.