camper springs/ opinion

[LMautone]

Ok--First let me say, as usual I'm amazed at the info you guys have. I'm looking at getting a slide-in camper after the summer. As you can see from muy signature i have a 2500 QC 4x4 LB. I'm real impressed with the Lance 915 but am also looking at the Fleetwood Elkhorn LE 9K.
I have a thousand questions but let me start here. I plan to have Rancho 9000's installed on front and rear. I have the camper spring package. So my question is how much weight can the springs handle or am I going to be forced to go with air bags. I'll stop here for now. Thanks.

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Y2K, 2500, SLT, QC, LB, 4x4,Cummins of course, 3. 54,Michelin M&S265/75,driftwood, tow and camper, trip computer, sliding rear window, agate leather,cab lights and all the rest of the options I could fit, including auto (my wifes request),Ventshade Vent Visors, Bedliner, Diamond Plate rail caps and tailgate protector, diamond plate Delta tool box, Sidewinder anti-theft alarm with keyless entry, Sanyo wireless remote 10 disc CD player, Midland 77-115 40 CB, black Westin step bars.

 

[DennyDay]

Forget the Fleetbox, go with the Lance. Don't think their campers are any better than their travel trailers, and the trailers are very poor quality.

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Denny
'99 2500 4X4 White short Q cab to much added to put here
Mom's Ram 2001 Qcab CTD with auto trans and all the bells and whistles

 

[MChilds]

LouieM.

I tow a 5th wheel with my 2001 3500 2WD. The hitch weight is 4,000 pounds. I installed Timbren springs and am satisfied. You can check out the web site at timbren.com for more info. For me it works out better than air springs.

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2001 3500 SLT Plus 2WD 6-Spd, Pac Brake

 

[bbutler]

If you want to haul a slide in camper, trade your 2500 in for a 3500 or by a 5th wheel, your 2500 will pull that much beter.

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2001 3500 HO Quad Cab with all the yada yada yada.....

 

[ARARAR]

There was a recent posting about this same subject. Get your self a set of air bags; much more flexable and read the thread in the latest TDR issue about this, especially the part about the front shocks.

[This message has been edited by arar (edited 05-29-2001). ]

 

[Deezul1]

Had airbags on a truck with a 3200lb camper on it and was extremly happy. the truck was rated for 7700GVW and it weighed about 5800 so the bags were a must. The only way to go.
Try it without the bags and put em on if needed, they really helped with cornering sway too.

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97 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, Ranch Hand front and rear. Gauges, EGT, Boost, fuel pressure, oil temp,indash CB, custom switch mount-6 switches BD brake extra fuel tank 45gal. Oh oh dang cat fell off, took the muff with it. Member NRA/USPSA

 

[Utah Willie]

I had a '96 2500 and mounted my 8'6" Lance, extended cab and was scared silly on my first trip, what with all the swaying. Even had a trucker remark to another trucker to catch the camper waddling up the highway. When I got to Missoula, I had had it and got to a shop that knew its business... he guessed I had a new Dodge... and he put on airbags. It took 90% of the sway out. I later installed Helwig's sway bar... didn't make it any better. I have a 3500 now... . the only way to fly! #ad

 

[brobeson]

I too have both a 2500 and a 3500 and have found the 3500 handle weight so much better than the 2500.

We pulled a 14K, 35 ft. 5er with the 2500 and it did just fine, or so I thought.

With the first pull with our 3500, there just is no comparison between the two.

Air Bags, be careful, while it may help the suspension, the newer Dodges have proportioning valves on the braking system, the more you load the truck the more the rear brakes work.

If you use air bags, then load the truck, the valve does not know you have loaded it so most of the braking stays on the front brakes, giving more braking performance, and wearing out the front pads quickly.

Good luck.

Bob


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2001 3500, SLT+, Green, Tan leather, Duel Power Seats, HO, 6 speed, 4X6, 4. 10, Towing Package, Trailer Tow Mirrors, Camper Package, Sliding rear Window, Jacob’s E-brakes (Dodge), Electric Steps (Dodge), Clarion overhead TC/VCR, In motion satalite, Mud Flaps on all 4s (Dodge) Line-X over the rail bed liner, 20K Reese 5th wheel Hitch with Gooseneck, 30” toolbox and tailgate box. Factory ordered, Picked up on 5-15-01. WOW!

Also have a 1998. 5, 2500, SLT, Red over Driftwood, 24V, 4X4, Auto, 4. 10, Light Group, Camper Special group, Convenience Group, Travel Group, Trailer Group, Keyless entry, 5 band EQ and 6 disk changer, 15K lil' rocker 5er hitch, tool box, rail guards, fog/driving lights, wood grain dash. (truck is 4-Sale)

 

[Cobra]

LouieM,
I bought my truck new this year. I also bought a new Coachman slide-in which weighs in at 3200#. Gross weight is 10,400#. I made one round trip to Fla from Pa. in Jan. 01. Then I put air bags on the rear and made the same trip in Feb. 01. I don't think the bags were necessary and I am considering removing them. Also the thread about the brake proportioning valve is a consideration. As for the weight, the 2500 will handle the same weight as the 3500. If you check the latest issue of TDR you will find that both trucks are the same except for the tires and the rear brakes. Well you and I have the Michelin 265s and mine has the rear disc which is comparable to the 3500. I spoke to a salesman about this and he said he couldn't find a nickles worth of difference between the 2500 and the 3500. (2001 year model). Your truck with the camper pkg and towing pkg and 265 tires will handle the slide-in of your choice. I say go with the Lance I can't wait to trade my Coachman for a Lance. But that will be down the road about 3 years. My two cents worth

Happy trails to ya

01 2500 4x4 QC SLT 5 spd LSD, towing pkg, camper pkg, westin cps nerf bars, rear air bags, Michelin 265/75/16E, Patriot blue/silver
97 Jeep Wrangler
93 Harley FLHTC


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Bill Kute

 

[Cobra]

LouieM

I forgot to mention that I also installed an exhaust brake on my Cummins. To be precise, I had it installed at the dealer because it had to do with warranty. The brake carries the same warranty as the truck, 36,000 truck and 100,000 engine. I have to tell you I really love that brake. It is good peace of mind knowing that I can stop on a dime at the bottom of a Pa. mountain if I have to. My brakes never get hot, even on the steepest mountain road. Lastf weekend I pulled an enclosed motorcycle trailer with my harley in it, thorugh the mountains for 200 miles. 15 minutes after I got home I could tough my brake rotors with my bare finger. Not hot at all.

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Bill Kute

 

[wrk2mtch]

Any 1st gen owners want to weigh in on this?

I am thinking about buying a camper (probably 10') and my truck just has the stock springs right now so I know I'll need either the airbags or the springs. I can get a 5-leaf overload set from Benz Spring in Oregon for $184

 

[WyoJim]

Terry, I have a 3000# S&S 9. 5ft. slide in. I traveled cross country several times with it on a 1993 W250 with out any packages or extra springs, no air bags and no Rancho shocks.



Never ran over 80 mph. Afraid I would blow it off. These trucks ain't wimps, go for it.



Put that camper on my 98 the other day and it set the back down 2 inches and the front measured the same as empty, truck to the ground. Whoopy

Friends have followed it and commented how well it goes around the corners without leaning.



I would use a rubber bed mat and good tie downs.

Enjoy

 

[Crazy Horse]

Well you asked for advice so here goes. I have a Lance Squire 5000. It's a 9ft 10 inch camper. When its in the bed and loaded the trucks front axle weight is 4900 lbs. and the rear axle weight is 6920 lbs. the truck GVW is at 11,820 lbs. I tried putting this same camper in a 97 Ford F350 and it just about put the rear bumper on the ground. The worst part was, it seriously buldged the single rear tires. I put air bags on the truck which helped when loaded, but when the truck was empty it rode as stiff as a board with the minimum amount of air (5lbs) in them. So we got rid of that truck for the Dodge Dually. The Dodge handled the load a whole lot better; no tire buldge and the springs were better but they needed a little help. I pulled out the factory overload springs (the 2 on top of the stack). I went to the spring shop and had them make a 4 leaf stack to replace them. Keep in mind that when the truck is empty those overload springs are not in contact with the frame so there is no sacrificing the factory ride. Now when the camper is in the bed and loaded the truck sits a hair high in the rear which gives me some leeway if I want to put a trailer on also. The big thing is, it rides just a little bit softer loaded now than when the truck is empty. The spring job actually cost me less than the air bags also, and they won't leak. Hopes this helps some, trying on trucks or campers can be spendy.

 

[wrk2mtch]

WyoJim, my truck sits level when empty (and maybe even a little high in the front). It rides like a truck but when I towed a little 2700lb trailer and had some camping stuff in the back (bicycles, bbq, etc) it seemed to squat a little. The rear springs are 7 leafs like they're supposed to be, but they just don't seem right. I wonder if they have been replaced or are just worn out.

 

[dewdo]

I guess I had better toss in my two cents worth.



I have a 11. 5 ft. Arctic Fox pickup camper with the slide out that weighs in over 4,500 lbs. I had the air bags installed prior to picking up the camper so I don't know how it would perform without the air bags. The truck has the camper/trailer package, but it still stooped a couple inches. Enough to blind pilots.



The thing I like about the air bags is it aids me in loading and unloading the camper. (I have the on board compressor) I can use the bags to help level me in the campground. I can back under the camper and inflate the airbags to raise it clear of the ground etc. I can use the on board compressor to inflate any device requiring air. baloons, tires balls and what have you. I can adjust them on the fly in case my headlights are pointing wrong.



The one thing I let the dealer talk me into and I shouldn't have is the tie down system. He used the "Happijac" tie downs that attached the camper to the bed of the truck and the rear bumper. Big mistake.



I took a trip from Seattle to georgia &Montana and after a few miles of swinging and swaying I stopped and started calling around for someone that could install a frame tie down system. Found one in Kalispell, MT. They had the mounts in stock and had me on the way and happy in just a few hours. Drove to Georgia and back hitting head winds, tail wind and cross winds with no problems.



Exhaust brakes are great as long as you don't get below about 30 mph. I once encountered a descent that was 10% for 16 miles with hairpin turns and I was never able to get above 30 mph. Exhaust brake was useless. On those straight descents they are great.



I also have a 35' fifth wheel trailer and it even makes my rear end stoop and the air bags are handy for levelling it out as well.



Lance is a good camper, but you might want to check out the Arctic Fox as well.



Good luck in your choice.



Dewdo in the other Washington



PS I have the Rancho 9000 shocks as well which makes travelling through Arkansas a lot more comfortable.

 

[Crazy Horse]

Hey dewdo, Here's a picture of my truck that just went over 20,000 miles in one trip with a set of Happyjacks without any problems. They went up and down the Alcan, from Alaska to Key

West and back. Head winds, side winds, torn up roads, and off roads, paved road @ 80MPH plus, and 11% grades. I guess it's all in how they are put on.

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

camper feedback

Originally posted by LMautone

Ok--First let me say, as usual I'm amazed at the info you guys have. I'm looking at getting a slide-in camper after the summer. So my question is how much weight can the springs handle or am I going to be forced to go with air bags. I'll stop here for now. Thanks.



<font color = blue>

Here's my own 0. 02cents. Just before I shipped my 1 ton dually and Lance 1130 camper back to Europe at the end of April, it weighed 12,500 pounds on the scales, (4750 front, 8250 rear). The rest of the specification/mods you can see from my sig file below.



Then travelling west coast to east coast USA during April on factory 16 inch rims and tires before upgrading with the Rixon 19. 5 (steel) set-up on TY303 rubber for a further 1000 stateside miles, made an IMMENSE improvement in ride and stability. As far as the Airbags go, when fully loaded, I want to ensure that the load rides evenly and my headlights are pointing out the road ahead rather than checking out the stars overhead.



Now you'll see from my sig file that I'm also based in Europe and a major consideration in selecting my own vehicle/camper set-up was reliability and confidence in dealing with all my original suppliers, if and when necessary (i. e. service parts etc) from more than 11,000 miles away.

 

[RobG]

I have to agree completely with John McIntyre about the 19. 5" wheels making a huge diffrence. I also have to point out (I don't recall anybody else mentioning it) that the Rancho RS9000's set to 4 or 5 in the rear (and 4 in the front) will also make a significant difference in how the truck handles.



If I'm driving on a twisty road, I set the rears to 5, otherwise I set 'em to 4. The thing drives as much like a sportscar as a truck with a camper on it can. Between the tires, the shocks, and the airbags, it's awesome. Oh yeah, and let's not forget the monster Hellwig rear swaybar.



I haven't weighed my 2000 Lance 1030 alone, or even the truck with just the camper, but I know that I should be right at the truck's GVWR (11k) with it loaded. I know that when the trailer is connected, I'm around 500 lbs over.



The main thing about the 2500 is the lack of the dual rear wheels... that alone will be a factor in sway, but if you upgrade to the 19. 5" wheels/tires, add airbags, the big rear swaybar (in place of the factory bar), and lose the factory overload springs in favor or airbags, you'll be set.



Rob

 

[dewdo]

Hey Crazy Horse:



Nice set up you have. I can see why you wouldn't have any problems with the bed mounting. Your rig looks well balanced compared to mine.



I leave the mounting rails in the bed of my truck and have a 3/4 " sheet of plywood and a 1/2 sheet of rubber to build up to the top of them. Then the camper itself is pretty high. I think I am at 12+ ft. from the ground to the top of my air conditioner.



It must be a foot between the cab of my truck and the camper. The camper is 11. 5 ft. and will accomadate a 7 ' person inside, so it is higher than I would like, but then I fell in live with the camper itself. It has the large slide out which makes it quiet comfortable and roomy.



I had a 1987 9' Western Wilderness on a 72 F### that looked a lot like your setup. It was bed mounted and drove great and my daughter who now has the rig thinks it better than my new one. (maybe because it was free for her)



I found a good source for rubber mats to place in the bed of pickups carrying campers. I needed a 1/2" mat and couldn't find any that thick in the auto parts places. I went to a feed store and they have the mats of different sizes that are used in horse stables. Works great in the bed of the truck.



I haven't figured out how to add a photo of my set up yet. I can do it with E-mail but haven't figured out how to do it on this board.



Dewdo in the other Washington

 

[Crazy Horse]

Dewdo, I agree a piece of rubber in the bed in very valueable in preventing the camper from sliding around. There has to be a certain amount of movement allowed with the camper in the bed or something is gonna bend or break. A company called Protecta makes a HD bedmat and its twice as thick as the ones you see in Walmart. They are near 1/2 inch thick. The big thing with the Happyjack setup is make sure you use the connecting bar inside the bed between the 2 sides. One thing I did also was rather than go to the rear bumper, which I didn't think could take any torquing; I made two detachable 1/4 inch thick extensions to come out of the reciever. When installed they came pretty close to where the rear mounts would have been on the bumper. On the extensions, I capped the ends after I installed 3/8 inch I bolts with lock nuts near the end of each one. These extensions went into the reciever about 4-5 inches. They had hitch pins holding them in place and preload bolts with locknuts coming up from the bottom to prevent rattling on bad roads. That 1/4 inch iron also gives some good protection back in those corners against automotive intruders.