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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Camshaft question...

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Thinking about buying a 12 valve....

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killer Dowel Pin

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hey im going to put a p-pump on my 24valve and i am curious if the 12 valve cam will work in a 24 valve? can anyone tell me the difference between the two besides the lobe for the mechanical lobe?
 
If I understand you correctly, a 12v cam in a 24v, no. Think about, a 12 valve in a 24 valve. I think something is missing there. You can call Piers or search Helix, there are others also that make or sell a 24v cam with the lobe on it that will work the mechanical LP that 12v's use.
 
sorry guys, i didnt realize that my question wasnt getting to the point i was after... i dont want to have to pull the cam gears off of the two, i just want to swap the cams to make it easier to time the p-pump. . im not gonna be using the factory 12 valve lift pump, i will use a FASS...



kelly- whats up man?? i tell ya what, on top of a 3b that thing is wicked!! ive got a lotta air now, just need some more fuel, lol!!
 
It will work fine. If your going to change cams then you need to change the tappets and push tubes as well.

David
 
If your going to change cams then you need to change the tappets and push tubes as well



Why? I just did a cam change in a 99 with 130k on the clock and I used the same lifters. I did pull one to check it but I took the advice of the cam grinder DonM and used the stock lifters. Truck runs great...

Stock lifters and push tubes or push rods were put right back in the same spot they came out of. .



Rick
 
Changing cams isn't going to have any effect on the timing procedure for the p-pump.



well im after the timing mark on the cam gear is why i was interested in doing it this way. . do you know of a way i could do this without having to mess with the cam gears? i mean getting a timing mark, because i want to be dead on with timing...
 
If you are going to use a FASS system for fuel, why change cams? You'll want to stay with the 24V cam gear, that way your tach & charging system will work properly. As for TDC. Forget the pin, make up a pointer, attach it so it's easy to read & then mark the harmonic balancer for TDC. To find true TDC.

Remove the valve cover & use the alt. nut to turn the motor over. It'll only turn it in reverse, but that's okay. Turn the motor over and watch the valves. You'll want to watch the valves on #6 cyl. As you turn the motor over you'll see the intake valves coming up, as they approch the top, watch the exhaust valve. As soon as you see the exhaust valve start to move down, STOP. Both valves on #6 cyl should be tight & both valves on #1 cyl should be loose. You are close to TDC. Now move the engine a 1/4 turn off of TDC.

Take the adjusting nut on the exhaust valve of #1 cyl and tighten it down 2 full turns. Now gently bar the engine over till the piston touches the valve. Carefully mark the harmonic balancer at your pointer. Now turn the motor in the oppisite direction, until the piston again touches the valve. Mark the harmonic balancer. These 2 marks should be about 2" apart. Middle of those 2 marks will be true TDC DON'T forget to reset the valve.
 
If you are going to use a FASS system for fuel, why change cams? You'll want to stay with the 24V cam gear, that way your tach & charging system will work properly. As for TDC. Forget the pin, make up a pointer, attach it so it's easy to read & then mark the harmonic balancer for TDC. To find true TDC.

Remove the valve cover & use the alt. nut to turn the motor over. It'll only turn it in reverse, but that's okay. Turn the motor over and watch the valves. You'll want to watch the valves on #6 cyl. As you turn the motor over you'll see the intake valves coming up, as they approch the top, watch the exhaust valve. As soon as you see the exhaust valve start to move down, STOP. Both valves on #6 cyl should be tight & both valves on #1 cyl should be loose. You are close to TDC. Now move the engine a 1/4 turn off of TDC.

Take the adjusting nut on the exhaust valve of #1 cyl and tighten it down 2 full turns. Now gently bar the engine over till the piston touches the valve. Carefully mark the harmonic balancer at your pointer. Now turn the motor in the oppisite direction, until the piston again touches the valve. Mark the harmonic balancer. These 2 marks should be about 2" apart. Middle of those 2 marks will be true TDC DON'T forget to reset the valve.



thank you so much! thats what i was looking for! now i have no worries about doin this project...
 
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