Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Camshaft swap Instructions

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I thought someone posted instructions on swapping cams once, but I'm thinking about tackling this except I don't have a shop manual.

Basically I'm thinking it's remove radiator, fan & shroud, trans cooler, swing AC condensor out of the way, remove timing cover, remove valve covers, remove long head bolts & valve rocker stands, pull pushrods to install dowel rods to hold up tappets. Remove lift pump, remove cam retaining bolts, swap cam.

Anything I'm missing? I've seen posts about the dowel rod thing but can't quite picture how they "grab" onto the tappets & hold them in place. Is this a safe way to make sure a tappet isn't going to fall out?

Also, I don't need to lift the motor or anything for the cam to clear the radiator crossmember? Lastly, I shouldn't need new tappets right (that's probably up for debate)? Engine has 180,000 miles on it.

Vaughn

 

[JAmos]

As far as new tappets, its your discretion. If they don't seem excessively worn(maybe someone can send ya some specs) they should be good unless its important that a new cam have new tappets to break in with-i'm not sure on this.



As for the dowel rods, I couldn't find my file so I scraped them on the floor(evenly all the way around) to put a taper on one end, then took my hack saw(which i did find) and cut a one inch slit in the center so that when I tapped the dowels into the tappets with a wrench(also known as the nearest hammer at the time) they wedged with a little "spring" action. Basically instead of trying to drive the dowel in, it uses the "spring" pressure of the special tip to start in easy and hold good. Rubber band each pair together and you'll be fine. For peace of mind a pipe(plastic is best), can be slid in till you're ready with the new cam. Let me know if you need any further help. If the dowels sound confusing, you can borrow my set. Or maybe atleast I could post a pic.



Jordan

 

[Highfinance97]

How hard would it be to replace the Tappets while the engine is in the truck??

Use string???:-laf

Seriously can it be done???

 

[JGK]

Vaughn,



You pretty much have it. You'll be removing the bumper and I think you need to remove the passenger side battery and tray as well for easier access to the radiator connections. No need to lift or tilt the motor. Make your hold-up dowels and check them by pushing them into the tappet and pulling them up, the pop it out to see how well it holds. You need a point on the dowel that is sort of blunt. Not sharp like a pencil point. You'll just have to experiment with one or 2.



Highfinance97,



It can be done.



You really have to have a trough made of a piece of metal or plastic pipe to slide in after you remove the cam in order to take out and install new tappets. To remove a tappet, slide the trough in (make sure the back end is capped to make sure a tappet from #6 doesn't roll off the back end of the trough) pull the wooden dowel to let the tappet fall into the trough, then either remove the trough or, like I did, use a wooden stick with a small hook on the end to reach in and drag the tappet out. Using the stick is much safer. Leave the trough in place until the job is done.



Now to put the new tappet in, you need a string with a small rubber stopper fastened to one end (use a small sheet metal screw). You drop the string down the push rod hole until you can see it down the length of the trough, reach in and grab it with the stick with the hook and drag it out. Stuff the rubber stopper into the end of the new tappet and pull the string to slide the tappet down the trough. The stick will help you tip the tappet upright and by pulling the string it should slip into place. Now rotate the trough 180* to block the tappet from falling out when you yank the stopper out of the tappet. Push the hold-up dowel into the tappet and pull it up and rubber band or clothes pin it to hold it up. Rotate the trough 180* to drop the next tappet.



Be aware that when you drop the stopper on the string down the push rod hole, there is a slight possibility it will find it's way down one of the oil drain holes aft of the tappet hole. The push rod path is not a tube so, because the engine sits with its transmission end lower than the front, the string may miss the tappet hole and drop into the oil drain hole. This happened to me and I was actually able to pull the tappet up into this hole a ways, but it didn't feel right. I was unaware of the oil drain hole. It took some time and a lot of peering down the push rod hole with a mirror and flashlight before I figured out what was going on. This was doubly hard since it happend on #6 so looking down the push rod hole was tough. So just make sure the little rubber stopper goes down the right hole.



It's a bit nervous but not too bad. Just make sure the dowels are secure in the tops of the tappets to hold them up and keep the trough in place until you're ready to slide in the new cam.



-Jay

 

[BPonci]

This might help. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...201382-need-dimensions-cam-lifter-dowels.html

 

[KLockliear]

either remove the trough or, like I did, use a wooden stick with a small hook on the end to reach in and drag the tappet out. Using the stick is much safer. Leave the trough in place until the job is done.

A telescoping magnet tool works well too.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

This is helpful guys, thanks much. I take it the dowel rods sorta work ball-in-socket style. I think swapping tappets will be more than I want to tackle, I'll be doing a Helix cam and as I recall reusing tappets will be fine. What I'll do is use the trough and drop the first one out and inspect it to be sure. Jay maybe I'll come down & let you help me some weekend

 

[Doughboy21kd]

I found this on You tube if it helps. It says KDP replacment but it sounds like he pulls the cam also.



YouTube - KDP Repair home video Part 1



YouTube - KDP repair on my Dodge Cummins Part 2



YouTube - KDP Repair home video Part 3



YouTube - KDP Repair home video part 4

 

[cahammer]

k i am getting ready to do this also what about replaceing the cam bearings while replaceing the cam mine only has 168k on it do the cam bearings need to be replaced?

 

[BPonci]

There is only 1 bearing in the b series motors. The front bearing. With a 168k i would venture to say that the bearing is in good shape still. It is always good to check it when the cam is out.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The 12” x ½” dowel pins, with chamfer and hacksaw slit in one end, fit snugly into recesses in the tops of the lifters to lift them up against the mushroom feet against the bottom of the lifter bores in the block. You need to make a trough from 2” exhaust pipe to catch the lifters when you pull the dowel out after removing the camshaft. You will use a 36” long ½” dowel with hooks screwed into the ends. The tight hook grabs the string just behind the stopper, and the loose hook pulls out the lifters. You can use a brass tube 3/16” or ¼” diameter, 11. 4” long to help guide the stopper down the right hole in the block. With the engine on a slant from the factory, the stopper tends not to go into the lifter hole. I use a Danco 00 beveled faucet washer, ½” OD, part number 88579, instead of a stopper to fit into the top of the lifter. Procedures and photos appeared in TDR #33, pp. 46-48.

 

[JGK]

... Jay maybe I'll come down & let you help me some weekend

Sure, Vaughn, run on down and we'll knock it out in no time.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

The 12” x ½” dowel pins, with chamfer and hacksaw slit in one end, fit snugly into recesses in the tops of the lifters to lift them up against the mushroom feet against the bottom of the lifter bores in the block. You need to make a trough from 2” exhaust pipe to catch the lifters when you pull the dowel out after removing the camshaft. You will use a 36” long ½” dowel with hooks screwed into the ends. The tight hook grabs the string just behind the stopper, and the loose hook pulls out the lifters. You can use a brass tube 3/16” or ¼” diameter, 11. 4” long to help guide the stopper down the right hole in the block. With the engine on a slant from the factory, the stopper tends not to go into the lifter hole. I use a Danco 00 beveled faucet washer, ½” OD, part number 88579, instead of a stopper to fit into the top of the lifter. Procedures and photos appeared in TDR #33, pp. 46-48.

Cool, thanks Joe. I think I have Issue 33 kicking around so I'll go take a look