Can't get my rotors off

[DFrank]

I am replacing my own brake pads for the first time in 20 years.



I got the truck jacked up and the wheels and calipers off, but the rotors are not budging. I started with a little rubber mallet and have progresssed to whacking the side with a framing hammer. the studs have a little play but there is no room at the hub. It looks frozen tight. This is the rear; I have not tried the front yet.





Aside from whacking it, how can I loosen or pry them off?



Would it be absurd to replace the pads with out turning the rotors? That looks real tempting right now.



Also do I need to remove the little retaining clips at the end of the pads or can they stay put?



Thanks. This is not how I planned to spend the weekend, but couldn't afford a brake job right away and they are THIN.

 

[Prairie Dog]

If the rotors are in good shape then I would not turn them. There's not usually enough metel on them to turn them more than once anyway.



Scotty

 

[bighammer]

I removed my rotor when I was trying to get the hub off for a U-Joint replacement. If I remember right, the wheel studs are holding the rotor onto the hub. If you knock them inward they come out one by one. (you have to line up to an area where there's enough clearance to get the stud out) I'll try to doublecheck in the manual...

 

[bighammer]

The manual says after the caliper is off, remove rotor from hub/bearing wheelstuds. I think mine was rusted on. (Just like the hub that I gave up on and took to the dealer :{ )

 

[vciesielski]

The rears require you to remove the axle and hub nut under that, then the rotor and and hub come off as one unit.

 

[CIverson]

The rear rotors are a HUGE PITA! I had to replace mine when my rusted out pads gouged them up bad.



The problem is the e-brake. It is like a small drum setup on the inside of the rotor. It does not want to let the rotor off. I had to beat mine into submission to get them off, and alot of prying w/ a long prybar. Basically I destroyed the rotor taking it off, but it was already bad anyway so it wasn't a big deal.



Also, make sure you have removed the small metal retainer pieces at the base of the studs, it keeps the rotor tight when there is nothing to hold it against the hub (lug nut, wheel).

 

[DFrank]

Thanks for the responses. They were pretty smooth, so I'm leaving them alone. I got the new pads in on the rear, and will do the front in the AM.

 

[MConyers]

I've removed both the front and rear rotors. Remove the retaining clips from the studs (or whatever their name is) and unbolt the caliper adapter bolts, hang the caliper so it doesn't hang by the brake line. Get a piece of 2x4, a foot long or so, place it against the inside of the brake rotor and give it a couple of hammer blows; the rotor will come off easily.

 

[DPKetchum]

If no pulsation and look ok no need to turn.

 

[DFrank]

I've removed both the front and rear rotors. Remove the retaining clips from the studs (or whatever their name is) and unbolt the caliper adapter bolts, hang the caliper so it doesn't hang by the brake line. Get a piece of 2x4, a foot long or so, place it against the inside of the brake rotor and give it a couple of hammer blows; the rotor will come off easily.

No such luck with mine. Much hammering with no movement. The hub looks fused to the inside of the rotor.

 

[SSpitzer]

Dumb question, but is your parking brake set? If the brake is set, it will not allow you to pull the rotors.

 

[DFrank]

Good point on the e brake. It was not set though. 3 of 4 rotors were frozen on there to where they didn't even rattle when wailed on with a framing hammer. The front right woud have come off easily, but they really did not need to be turned. It is now all back together and works great. Except fot flailing with the rotors, this was very easy. I spent only $110 on pads and brake cleaner. The MAN wanted $269 per axle. I am glad to have done it myself, but not sure what I will do when the rotors actually need to be turned or replaced. The hardest part was jacking the thing up on to some cribbing with an underprivledged bottle jack. Muscling the 315s back on wasn't that fun either.

 

[LFJ]

I don't want say that you was wrong in just putting on just Pads. But, In my past experence. I have done just that. But I though that I couldn't afford to have the rotors or drums turn. In the short run, and time. I had to go back and get new shoes,or pads and still have the rotors,or drums turn. Maybe I am harder on brakes than most people. I will wait till it shakes the s--ff out of you , then I will do the job as soon as I can get to it. Or the wife makes me do it. You may have better luck. The rotors need to have a rough surface when you put the pads on not real smooth. Would be interesting to know how longm or how many miles you get on this job. Good Luck with the brakes.

 

[DPKetchum]

There are actually TSB's from manufactures that if at all possable DON"T turn rotors if surface looks good and no pulsation. Installed many many sets without turning and no issues on customers vehicles in the past and on my own.