Carli Upper Ball Joint Service How To

[WUrbowicz]

OK isn't Carli warrantied 4 life. y not replace t ball joint?

 

[AEdelheit]

OK isn't Carli warrantied 4 life. y not replace t ball joint?

Why not properly spell words ?????

 

[Wayne M.]

Thanks for putting this up. I wanted to do more research before taking the plunge. Lots of curiosity satisfied here.
JKosten, great write up but one question. It sounds like the "pin" wasn't seated in the knuckle taper. You needed to hold it back with the 7/16, and just yank it, correct? Shouldn't the pin, or stud (regarding a normal joint) taper be seated tight in the knuckle taper? This bothers me.

 

[ranger 393]

Thanks for putting this up. I wanted to do more research before taking the plunge. Lots of curiosity satisfied here.
JKosten, great write up but one question. It sounds like the "pin" wasn't seated in the knuckle taper. You needed to hold it back with the 7/16, and just yank it, correct? Shouldn't the pin, or stud (regarding a normal joint) taper be seated tight in the knuckle taper? This bothers me.

I just replaced all of my ball joints with carli's, and I can honestly say that they are very well made(high quality). As far as seating the pins it is pretty straight forward, they just set down in the cup.I did alot of research from other users on forums to find out their "reviews, experience" with these ball joints and I don't recall finding anything negative to sway my decision. I would not hesitate to buy them again, customer service is top notch. Just my .02

 

[Wayne M.]

I just replaced all of my ball joints with carli's, and I can honestly say that they are very well made(high quality). As far as seating the pins it is pretty straight forward, they just set down in the cup.I did alot of research from other users on forums to find out their "reviews, experience" with these ball joints and I don't recall finding anything negative to sway my decision. I would not hesitate to buy them again, customer service is top notch. Just my .02

10-4 that, but my concern was not the pin in joint, but the pin in knuckle taper. After you remove the castle nut, you should need to seperate the pin from the knuckle. Usually done with BFH (Big Friggin Hammer) I didn't catch that step.

 

[ranger 393]

10-4 that, but my concern was not the pin in joint, but the pin in knuckle taper. After you remove the castle nut, you should need to seperate the pin from the knuckle. Usually done with BFH (Big Friggin Hammer) I didn't catch that step.

I think I understand what your asking, on the upper ball joint you press in the cup,and then insert the pin. I'm not sure how hard the pin would be to get out after a few years, I know I tapped it out with a rubber hammer with no trouble but it had not been under load at that point. The bottom joints,they say do not disassemble for installation, but they are supposed to be rebuild able, hopefully they won't be to difficult when time comes. I feel compared to the original ones they have to be easier to replace.

 

[JKosten]

Thanks for putting this up. I wanted to do more research before taking the plunge. Lots of curiosity satisfied here.
Shouldn't the pin, or stud (regarding a normal joint) taper be seated tight in the knuckle taper? This bothers me.

Due to the tapered design once you apply rotational force to pin it will loosen, and allow the pin to be removed. Most tapered ball joints do not provision a surface to rotate them for removal. Carli engineered them to be serviceable without having to use a BFH.

 

[Wayne M.]

Ok. Thanks.