Carpenters/Cabinetmakers, look here please

[Briar Hopper]

Hey guys, I have a particularly expensive piece of particleboard paneling to cut for my shop, don't want to mess it up. What saw blade do I use (7 1/4 ) in terms of teeth type, brand name , whatever? in order to get a smooth cut without flaking or breaking chunks off... .

The more detail you can give me, the better! My 10" compound mitre saw is the only one that has ever given me a smooth cut !!!! I don't think it'll work well as a handheld saw if removed from the base.

 

[RJ2]

Use a carbide blade and cut it upside down.

 

[Batman]

Briar Hopper, here are a couple of things you can use to give you smooth cuts. (I assume you are using a circular saw based on the 7-1/4" dia. blade)

- get a carbide tipped blade with as many teeth as you can... ..... less teeth will give a cut that looks like a beaver did it)

- measure twice, cut once

- clamp a straight edge to your workpiece, and keep the sole plate of your saw tight up agianst it. (less wobble, smoother cut, and you don't have to wtch the line)

- use a fairly slow feed rate, but not so slow it burns the material

- have your blad extend no more than 3/4" through the workpiece.

- cut the workpiece with the face side down. (chip-out will be on the opposing side)



These are some of the techniques I use all the time. Some material will chip-out more than others.



Good luck,

George

 

[nickleinonen]

you could always use one of those 6 1/2" blades that the maketa and dewalt cordless circular saws use. they are super thin, carbide and many teeth. like the others said, cut it good side down so the tearoff will be on the back side. you could also run a strip of 2" masking tape to the cut line. cut down the center of the 2" tape. the tape can help minimize tear out. .

 

[Partyat33]

Wrap masking tape over the cut area.



Toss it in your truck and bring it up here.



Seriously, you might look around for woodworkers shops and clubs, probably get it cut really well for $ 5. 00 to $10. 00.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Tom,



I use "Frued" blades, IMO they're the best on the market. They make a blade for EVERY application. The blade that would best suit you would be the DR40, it's a 7 1/4" 40 tooth thin kerf Teflon coated awesome blade, I use one, when I can't use the table saw. You'll love it, also clamp a straight egde to your work, that'll stop the majority of your problems. BTW, I do Custom Woodworking for a living, and have using these blades for years.



Later, Rob

 

[JConley]

IF you want to make a super smooth cut, take a metal cut-off wheel for a circular saw, and use it to cut the plywood. Put masking tape over the line you are cutting, and it will literally sand the wood rather than cut the wood when making the cut. It makes smoke, (you should be used to that ) and it takes a while, but you cant get much smoother than a sanded edge.

 

[RHARVEY]

The cleanest blade that I have used on something like this is the Marathon blades'40 tooth'. . I have used them and keep one on hand in the shop for stuff like this...



Rick

 

[Briar Hopper]

..... less teeth will give a cut that looks like a beaver did it..... ROFLMAO HAHAHAHA Exactly what I want to avoid. Don't want people coming into my shop, taking one look, then leaving to spread the legend of the "beaver-cut board" on the wall at Black Mountain Diesel.

Thanks guys... . what a wealth of good information.

I'm familiar with Freud blades, just wasn't sure WHICH ONE to get... . also knew about the tape trick , but forgot about turning the board upside down.....

 

[Mitch Rockwell]

I will have to agree with the Freud blade suggestion, just can't remember which one I use. Here's another tip or two. I wrap the base of my saw with masking tape when cutting, this prevents scratches on the finished piece. Another thing I do is mark the cut line, place a straight edge(I use an aluminum "clamp-n-tool guide") onto the line, and score the line with a sharp utility knife. I use this technique whenever I cross-cut veneer doors or any other laminated wood product, never have chipout. Hope this helps.



Mitch

 

[DarrellB]

What they said.



Buy a good carbide tooth blade with a very thin curf and you'll be fine. I used to work for a custom cabinet shop and we used good thin curf carbide blades all the time. You should see the looks on women's faces when you take a circular saw to thier $8,000 cabinets. (not that I've ever done that)



The blade will cost you about $8. 00 to $9. 00, well worth it though.



Darrell

 

[ETOBICOKE]

Other Suggestions

Carbide blade is the way to go, use a 24 or more teeth. Two other tips for you, tape does work well, you have to be careful when removing it not to peel off the veneer, sometimes the glue line is poor in spots. What I do is score through the veneer with a striking knife and straight edge, then cut just outside of the score line. Another tip is to minimize the depth that the blade penetrates to about 1/4" more than the sheet thickness. If you require a super clean edge, cut just slightly oversize and clean up the edge afterwards with a router guided with a straight edge.



Neil

 

[Big P]

I'm probably late but the Freud 40 tooth Diablo teflon coated blade is DEFINETLY the one to get. As was suggested before face side down and use a straight edge. If the saw goes straight the teeth can't bind and chip the finish.