2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Carrier Bearing Out Again

[Silver Ratler]

I replaced the carrier bearing on my '01 3500 about 20k miles ago... ... felt some slight vibration when starting from a stop, checked the driveline and sure enough... ... carrier bearing is shot.



Shouldn't this have lasted more than 20k? When I replace it this time, I was thinking that it would be wise to have the drive shafts balanced... ... Any thoughts? I thought I would go ahead and replace the U joints as well. My thinking is that if the drive shaft(s) are out of balance, that would explain the short life span of the bearing.

 

[JR]

Where did you buy it from? I have not had much luck with many aftermarket parts companies in the last few yrs when it comes to drive line and brake parts. Quad 4x4 sells Spicer carriers for around 120 bucks. They are a good source for driveline parts. IIRC Napa sells their version for around 80-90 so there is a bit of a price difference but well worth it IMO.

 

[JR]

Where did you buy it from? I have not had much luck with many aftermarket parts companies in the last few yrs when it comes to drive line and brake parts. Quad 4x4 sells Spicer carriers for around 120 bucks. They are a good source for driveline parts. IIRC Napa sells their version for around 80-90 so there is a bit of a price difference but well worth it IMO.

As for the universals it really depends on mileage. If they are fairly new as well, I would just double check them when you drop the shaft to replace the carrier bearing. You will be able to feel any binding by fully articulating each joint.

 

[Silver Ratler]

Support and bearing was an SKF from Rock Auto... ... .

 

[GAmes]

It is a bit far for you but I'm having my driveshaft componants and pinion seal replaced by the shop in Austin that built the custom driveshaft I needed when I did the G56 conversion. I have almost 300k on the u-joints and bearing. Nothing wrong with them, but winter is coming and sometimes I find myself a long way from home. I believe a balance is a good idea. The carrier should last hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[JR]

SKS should be a decent unit, you may want to dig into it further like you mentioned with the joints and balancing. I'm sure you marked the shaft when you dropped it last time? They are balanced as a pair and assembling them 180* out can cause vibration which can lead to premature failure. If you do the universals yourself you will want to replace them before you take it in to have it balanced.

 

[JR]

It is a bit far for you but I'm having my driveshaft componants and pinion seal replaced by the shop in Austin that built the custom driveshaft I needed when I did the G56 conversion. I have almost 300k on the u-joints and bearing. Nothing wrong with them, but winter is coming and sometimes I find myself a long way from home. I believe a balance is a good idea. The carrier should last hundreds of thousands of miles.

Do you know what joints they're using? That's very impressive especially if most of those miles are towing.

 

[GAmes]

Sealed Spicers. I don't like u-joints with grease fittings. I don't know who made the support bearing.

 

[GAmes]

I dug out the DS build sheet. U-joints are spicer 5-801X http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-5-801X.html

The hanger bearing is also aSpicer 211848-1X http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-...m-dana-driveshaft-center-support-bearing.aspx

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Definitely balance the driveshafts. Make sure the u joints are in phase, and the bushing in the tailhousing is good.

 

[fest3er]

I had this happen on my ancient F150 years back.



The slip-joint in your driveshaft is no longer slipping. Thus whenever the rear suspension is compressed, the driveshaft shoves everything toward the trans.



If it does slip properly, then the driveshaft is too long. The effect is the same.

 

[Smokin' Larry]

Take a close look at the photo in his post. It looks like the bearing is misaligned at the mounting surface as you look across it. I agree with the slip-yoke theory also. After a awhile it just doesn't slip and slide like it should. JMO

 

[GAmes]

I don't have a slip yoke anymore and don't have a problem. When I had my driveshaft built I had to measure the distance from the G56 flange to the mount bolt of the hanger bearing. I've never had a hanger bearing apart, perhaps it contains a slip yoke device.

 

[Silver Ratler]

Took the truck into the shop this afternoon to have everything checked out. So if the slip yoke is not functioning do you replace it or is there a fix? As to the alignment of the support housing... . It was not out of line prior to it going bad. I had checked the drive line just prior to our last trip to the mountains... ... . bearing went out on the return home.

 

[B.G. Smith]

The front shaft is definitely pushed forward, what puzzles me is, I don't see a "U" Jont behind the center support bearing. The drive line has to flex somewhere when the rear differential goes up and down, as when the load on rear axle is different. bg

 

[NIsaacs]

what puzzles me is, I don't see a "U" Jont behind the center support bearing. bg

I think it is just outside the picture frame. Either the bearing froze up and spun it'self out of the rubber cushion or the slip yoke is not sliding and like others have said it pushed the front shaft forward.



Nick

 

[HHhuntitall]

If you're pushing some above average torque out of your truck, then it's very likely the slip yoke is faulty. Most likely the nylon coating is torn and coming off, causing it to bind at times... . Probably not lubed correctly when installed originally. I see them failed very regularly, and currently have an '03 in the shop that has the same problem with 138k-ish on the clock. Definitely have the shaft balanced and have them check the slip yoke, as well. The carrier bearing usually fails because it is either poor quality or is stressed by the slip yoke, both as suggested above. A bad u joint will cause a vibration and knock the rubber out of them, as well... .

 

[Silver Ratler]

Well, got my truck back this afternoon... ... 2 Mechanics and drive shaft shop checked over the drive shaft, u joints and slip yoke..... They could find no reason for the support bearing failure! So, now I have a new support bearing and we will see what happens. They all want to see the truck in a few weeks to check things out again.

One good thing that came out of it was they noticed that my ball joints were starting to go... so got those replaced. Front end is all good now, unfortunately this fix did not help the steering, so I guess I will be replacing the steering box

 

[HHhuntitall]

Have you checked that steering box? Does it have excessive endshaft play, allowing the pitman arm to move side to side instead of turning in a radius?

 

[lfwood]

I have just had the fourth carrier bearing failure since September, 2009. The first two were replaced with NAPA junk, and they lasted one to two years. The last one I replaced with a Dodge unit, and it has lasted close to two years. I had all the u-joints replaced the last time, even though only one was bad. I made it 11-1/ 2 years on the first carrier bearing. Right now, I am thinking something is amiss with one of the driveshafts balance, like maybe one or both had an encounter with a road hazard. Bearings at the tailshaft and differential show no issue. I do not think these units should fail like this.

Any other suggestions?