Archived carrier bearing

[CEbbert]

my carrier bearing just went out. i have a 01 2500 extended cab with long bed. there is a 6" lift on it. i just replaced a carrier bearing 1 week ago. and one about 6 months before that. the bearings aren't bad it just heats up the rubber bushing and the bearing slips out of the housing making an awful noise. it does have drop shims for the bearing, about 1 1/4". what is going on? please help

 

[Joe Mc]

You may need more of a drop w/the 6" lift. My hunch is there's a problem with the angle of the dangle or drop with the bearing.

 

[p-Bar]

You may need more of a drop w/the 6" lift. My hunch is there's a problem with the angle of the dangle or drop with the bearing.

I agree with that also, I assume this is a 2wd?

 

[CEbbert]

no this is a 4wd, hence the 6" lift. i am not the type to do that to a 2wd. ha ha

 

[Simplysmn]

drive shaft

its the angle of the dangle that is all wrong take it to a 4x shop or even a driveline shop and get them to check it out . :-{}

 

[CEbbert]

hey guys thanks for all the help, its nice to be a member of this group Oo. Oo.

 

[Joe Mc]

CEbbert - get yourself a signature set up, makes it easier for folks to help and just for us to see what you have. Go to top of the page, look for "Discussion Forms" pull down, than select "User Control Panel", then "edit signature" this is where you type in the infomation you want to be displayed under your posts.

 

[CEbbert]

JoeMC tanks for the advice

 

[CEbbert]

hey guys i went to find a shop to put the new carrier bearing on saturday. i didn't have the new one yet but i went scouting around. the only shop that was open was a big rig diesel shop and he said that you didn't need to get it "pressed on" that you could just do it with a sledge and a drift pin, and that is how he got the old one off, it went smooth. he said once i got the new one to bring it in and he would put it on for free. will that work? does anyone know?

 

[ttbird]

just put it on with a 4lb hammer and a piece of pipe that fit over the splines and lines up with the race on the new bearing. Mine came with a collar to drive on the new bearing,so almost any size pipe would work. Didn't measure the pipe but maybe 1 1/4", just grabbed it from the pile in the corner.

 

[Joe Mc]

CEbbert,



Nice signature - you're welcome - and sorry for the delayed welcome to the TDR - It's a great place. I think you are replacing the carrier bearing because it wore out, prematurely after replacement of the original . . after installation of the lift, which was the initiation of this post. May I recommend that once you get the new carrier, don't put it on unless you've found a 4 X 4 shop that has the degreed shims/plates needed to correct the drive shaft angle which is within 10 miles or so from your house/shop. I mention a 4 X 4 "shop", because some places just sell kits and accessories, the "shops" do installation of those kits and accessories and would be more than likely most proficient with correcting the angle of the dangle (correct your pinion to trans misalignment/correct the degree) by installing different degreed spacer on the carrier and re-degree the rear housing with shims between spring and perch to put the trans (shaft leaving the trans case) to rear diff back in correct degrees. Additionally, you should have them look at the degree of the front differential. Double cardigan joints aren't cheap, and the correction needed at the front should be able to be performed with existing equipment as the lower control arms (I think it's the lower one?) have cam washers which can angle the housing. Although I could be totally off here because these cams may screw up the alignment geometry. I'm sure, if I'm wrong, someone will chime in soon. But, the basis of my humble opinion is: get the angle of the dangle back in tune or you'll keep wearing out carrier bearings, start to get vibrations or worse.



Best regards,



Joe Mc

 

[CEbbert]

hey thanks for the info but unfortunatly the only 4 by shops around are the ones that just install lifts by reading the install book. but ill try a driveline shop or the local diesel performance shop there really into their RAMS!

thanx for all the help joemc!

 

[CEbbert]

i finally figured it out after visiting a handful of shops, long story short i feel stupid it was the slip joint i didn't have it greased good so it was siezing up and pulling the carrier bearing out of the housing.

 

[Joe Mc]

Great! I've never seen a zerk to lube the slip yoke on my 99. Is there one on yours? Or is this something that you do by separating the two back shafts?

 

[CEbbert]

yeah, you have to seperate the 2 shafts and make sure the slines are greased good, it was just one of those things that never even crossed my mind but at least now i know thanks for the concern and advice. from all this i sort of found out what shops actually know what there talking about, which is very few.

 

[SKing]

See you have already helped me. Your mistake will help with my carrier bearing repair. I never would have thought to grease the slip joint. This how we all learn.

 

[Joe Mc]

See you have already helped me. Your mistake will help with my carrier bearing repair. I never would have thought to grease the slip joint. This how we all learn.

Indeed "That", is what it's all about.



Now all we need is for someone to come up with where to drill and install a zerk fitting on the slip.



I can't understand why DC neglected/decided not to install zerk fittings in simple arse places that make sense. Unless they were programing failure? My Toyotas (85 std cab, LB, 4 cyl 4X4 and a 89 4-Runner, 6 cyl 4X4) both had zerks for the slip joint and ball joints etc.



Super light duty foreign truck - yes ah go head we giv grease fitting fo you.



Light duty American truck - pfff, screw you install your own zerks - go ahead I hope you get metal shaving in there and have to take it to the dealer anyway. . . .



Go figure

 

[p-Bar]

And thats why Toyota is the #1 automaker in the world