2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Carrier bearing

[SHobbs]

What kind of longevity has everyone had out of this thing? With close to 270k miles on the original I have been wondering how much longer it will go. Also does anyone know the bearing size? Timken lists two of them one is 1. 57" 40mm bearing I. D 3. 25" the other is 1. 57" 40mm bearing I. D 2. 28". I am thinking the larger one is the right one just wanting to be sure incase I feel like replacing this thing.



Thanks,

Scott

 

[LSchulz]

Mine went out around 120k. The bearing itself was actually fine, but the rubber collar it sits in fell apart and the bearing walked forward, sliding the output shaft a little further into the transfer case. I was actually able to use a bunch of wire to hold the bearing more or less in place (it has a nice little groove around the outside of it) and limp it home.

 

[GAmes]

I have replaced mine twice. Neither time was it worn out, but the u-joints needed replacing so I replaced it as well.

 

[SHobbs]

The FSM is a little vague on how this thing comes out. How bad of a job is it to replace it? I need to redo the seal on the rear of the transmission might be a good time to change it as well.

 

[SRath]

For a very minimal labor charge, the driveline shop where I buy my genuine dana u-joints and other components will r&r the u-joints and the carrier bearing and check and rebalance the driveshaft. I'm a tightwad and don't like letting anyone else work on my vehicles, but that is one job (the carrier bearing) I am happy to pay the small charge to let pros do. U-joints don't thrill me either so i just take them my driveshafts and axle shafts. There is no chance of any warranty issues that way either, though I've never had a problem.



A word to the wise: When you remove the straps and tiny little bolts on your u-joint axle yokes, GET NEW ONES!! Never reuse them! They only cost $6 per kit and are designed to stretch once, and if you reuse them you run a very high risk of trashing your very expensive yokes. Ask me how I know...

 

[LVJUNIOR]

I lost my carrier bearing at around 120k also. I also learned to check it in neutral. I heard a clunk and couldn't find it then one day I was having my suspension checked by an off-road shop and they checked the u-joints in nuetral and one of the bolts had snapped off of the carrier bearing and it was just hanging there. When I checked it in park it had rotated and held it tight enough to the frame that it felt good.

 

[JMcCoy]

Put it in nuetral and tug on it. Don't forget to block the wheels. There should be just a little movement in the rubber collar. When you start getting metal on metal movement, it's time to think about replacing it. I inject grease in there during services. Mine was loose at 185,000 (and had been for a while), so I changed it a couple months ago. Not hard at all. You'll have to take the shaft half somewhere to have the bearing pressed on and off. Car quest charged me $20. 00. Well worth it. Good luck.

 

[SHobbs]

Is it possible to change out the rear shaft to utilize the straps and bolts to attach the driveline to the transmission? Guess it's called the output yoke shaft? The driveshaft connects to the Dana 80 this way, would be nice to have this type of connection at the transmission. Make it easier to drop the driveshaft and replace the rear output shaft seal.

 

[SRath]

NP205's were produced with both rear output yokes and rear slip shafts. They can be converted and the yoke is much preferred by 4-wheelers because it will allow you to remove the rear driveshaft if you break it or a u-joint and limp home in front-wheel drive without losing all your t-case lube. I have in fact done this before with one of my old chevy's. You cannot do it with a slip-yoke output.



I do not think the NP241 was ever offered with a yoke output, so finding the parts to do the same thing might be impossible. You would also need to have your rear driveshaft modified with a slip-sleeve if it doesn't have one already. I know the ex-cabs do since they have a fixed-position carrier bearing, but I don't know about the reg-cabs.



The conversion that would be worth doing, and is far superior to the troublesome and weak straps and tiny bolts, is the flange-style driveshaft-to-rear differential connection now being used on truly-heavy-duty Fords.

 

[S.Morris]

I have found the carriers last longer on auto equipped trucks.

The torque load is more constant/consistent with less shock loading transmitted in general.

The manual trucks really stress the rubber especially in lower gears if trying to get a big load moving and getting in to big of a hurrry.

The rubber gets sloppy and the side shift from torque load throws ujoint angle out and creates vibration under heavy load.

Installed a one piece in sons 04. 5 auto and it just feels like there is a lot of efficiency gained. He really likes it as compared to the two piece.