Caster disaster

[Prairie Dog]

So the allignment shop cranked my caster from just under 4.2 to 5.2 degrees (susp. is stock- no lift). It drives terrible. No return to center and very heavy steering. It's hard to even keep it in the lane without constant input and attention. Can't imagine what towing is going to be like.
Originally the setting was straight up. You can see where it is now.

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I don't know if I want to get into it with the shop (Omni) - the guy is very opinionated and isn't open to anyones questioning his work. I'll probably call him tomorrow but I don't expect anything more than an argument.
So I'm considering fixing this myself and I'll just set it straight up or at the first positive line - open to suggestions.
However, I've never done this. Can I just loosen the bolt at the cam or do I need to loosen the upper radius arm bolts too?
Then will it the cams just turn or is there some special way of moving them ?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Wayne M.]

Just loosen that nut and wrench on the bolt end. The eccentric will push/ pull and pivot the axle. You could loosen the forward upper arm bolts to prevent bind.
That said, do you have before/ after printout of this alignment? What equipment is he using?

 

[Prairie Dog]

Thanks, I dont know anything about his equipment Wayne but here is the printout:

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[Wayne M.]

From what I see on paper, you really shouldn’t experience what you are. He helped your toe (wheels pointed straight ahead) and while your caster was in spec, he added some, to the spec limit. More caster can lead to steering issues, some like you describe. Taking caster out should help with the heavy feel and make it more sensitive to input. Ask him to return the caster to the prior number, which was in spec anyway.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Hmm, that leaves me wondering if something is also up with my steering gear which was so loose it was causing issues maintaining a lane when towing. I adjusted it just before the allignment and it took 1.5 turns to get the adjuster to the stopping point, then I backed it off slightly.
After the allignment, I backed it off more to make sure it wasn't effecting my steering but it would not back off very much. It was also looser than I had adjusted it in the first place (was able to turn the adjuster in 3/4 of a turn until it came up tight. I then tried to back it way off and it would only go 1/2 a turn until it stopped for some reason. I left it that way but the steering seems like it hasn't got any slop.
Really strange, wonder if it's failing...

 

[Wayne M.]

I suspect your steering gear more than the alignment. Address it before you go back to that shop.

 

[Ozymandias]

Yep, with that much Caster it should easily return to center and track nicely. But feel heavy doin a turn, thats ok.
Everything else is in shape, no binding MOOGs in the knuckles??

 

[Prairie Dog]

Yep, with that much Caster it should easily return to center and track nicely. But feel heavy doin a turn, thats ok.
Everything else is in shape, no binding MOOGs in the knuckles??

Nope, no binding in the BJ's or the U-joints and no looseness in any of the joints. I was thinking more pos. caster meant poorer return to center. Guess I had that backwards.
Waiting till my mechanic buddy gets back from vac. so I can get a discount on a Redhead gear.

Thanks!
Scott

 

[Ozymandias]

Dont mess with aftermarket, get the 2008.5 steering upgrade from Mopar.
Do it once do it right.

Thats my opinion on the 6 bolt Box.
It is still as thight as 60K Mikes ago when i installed it and a lot if rough off road Miles in it.

If you do not want to do the whole upgrade then just get the box, it comes with two steering arms for the old and the new linkage.

 

[Bill Lins]

Dont mess with aftermarket, get the 2008.5 steering upgrade from Mopar.
Do it once do it right.

Thats my opinion on the 6 bolt Box.
It is still as thight as 60K Mikes ago when i installed it and a lot if rough off road Miles in it.

If you do not want to do the whole upgrade then just get the box, it comes with two steering arms for the old and the new linkage.

Will that upgrade fit a 1998 Ram? If so, would you happen to have the part #(s)?

 

[04blackcherry]

Dog, Don't forget Red Head in Auburn for a new box.

 

[Wayne M.]

Dont mess with aftermarket, get the 2008.5 steering upgrade from Mopar.
Do it once do it right.

Thats my opinion on the 6 bolt Box.
It is still as thight as 60K Mikes ago when i installed it and a lot if rough off road Miles in it.

If you do not want to do the whole upgrade then just get the box, it comes with two steering arms for the old and the new linkage.

Ozy, that comes with a box too? I thought it was just linkage.

 

[TFucili]

I did the linkage update on my '05 when we did the ball joints. Nice upgrade, for sure.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Dog, Don't forget Red Head in Auburn for a new box.

Yeah, sorry Oz but that upgrade just isn't worth it to me. I've always been happy with the way mine drives and I dont have any big tires or anything. Is there some other benefit?
We have Red Head gears nearby and they have a very good record so I'll be using them. I appreciate your thoughts on the matter though.

Scott

 

[cerberusiam]

Actually, the 2013+ box is a better choice as it is a fast ratio, not slow ratio like the 08-12 box. However, that takes some customization to install because the pitman arm is no longer centered. The conversion end to the inverted Y steering used to be available but like anything else that can change unless the aftermarket picks it up.

If you had vertical play in the pitman shaft and now the adjustment is wonky it is probably the box just worn out. A redhead is about the best bolt in choice if you want to maintain the current ratio.

Some like the t-type conversion, I never had any luck with it especially with a leveled suspension. All out trucks have gone, or are in the process of going to, cross over steering with much larger components. That and DynaTrac ball joints is the only way we can keep from replacing suspension and steering parts twice per year.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I've had an SBS on it for most of its life. I had hoped that would provide a secondary function to keep the pitman shaft from wearing and maybe it has. It could be something else that's worn.
It became very apparent last year when I was towing. Also seemed like the steering response wasn't linear. I would continue turning in a sweeping curve when all of the sudden it would veer sideways. Then I'd have this overcorrecting thing going on. I'd be swinging the steering wheel back and forth just to keep control. When I got home I found all the slop in the gear and an ever so slight looseness in one tie-rod.

 

[EDankievitch]

After reading that print out I have to ask short of bending the axle tube how does one adjust the Camber on the rear Axle? Or the fronts, unless you have adjustable ball joints in the front upper that is.

 

[Wayne M.]

ED, on a truck like this, you’re only looking for bent and damaged components in camber and the rear adjustments. He’s showing slight negative camber, which is desirable even if it’s adjustable.
He needs a box, and he’ll be good.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I'm no expert but I suspect the fr. camber would be closer to perfect with brand new up BJ's?
The ones in there now have .007~.008" of sideways play (Dodge spec is something like .060 max.).

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm no expert but I suspect the fr. camber would be closer to perfect with brand new up BJ's?
The ones in there now have .007~.008" of sideways play (Dodge spec is something like .060 max.).

It’s hard to factor in minimal play like that. Once you consider that the angles are putting a slight load on components, it’s sort of nil.
Depending on the machine used (it’s not called out on the report) the truck is rolled into position (rolling compensation) and the wheels cut on turn plates to obtain the measurements. Between that and the static weight of the truck, slight joint play is not even a consideration.