CAT fuel Filter setup?

[JCJohnson]

Here is what I'd like to do, I would like to add a CAT 01-0750 filter after the OEM filter/water separator. I have already picked out a filter head that will work and comes with 1/2 inch ends. What is the kind of fixture size would I need coming off the fuel/water filter and then going into the pump? I do not want to replace the pump I want to keep that OEM. How much diesel line needed? Does it need to be biodiesel compatible? I'm new to this. What kind of fuel pressures are we seeing at the filters? I ask that question because I can get the filter head with a liquid filled gauge on it, but need to know what kind of pressures I'll see. Thanks your help beforehand!

 

[Jim W]

I was looking into using the Cat fuel filter also but it was too long for my application where I was going to place it.

I ended up buying a kit from Glacier Diesel Power called the MK-2 + Big Line Kit. The kit includes a 2 micron fuel filter from Fleetguard "FF5320". This mounts by the CP3 and the filter is access from the top.

Here is the link for your reference. Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail

Jim W.

 

[ejc252]

I also went with the GDP kit. it's easy to install and service the filter. The mounting location on the engine looks to be designed for the kit.

 

[JCJohnson]

What kind of pressures are we running on the fuel system prior to the fuel pump? CP3 I forget what that stands for, sorry a newbie. "The fuel pump"

 

[JFought]

i installed their kit as well. i get 8-9. 5psi before injection pump.

 

[CKelley1]

see the following

we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 some like 33406 better for the drain. the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.



the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5. 9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to -- email address removed -- and i will send pix and instructions

these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance. #ad


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[BIGNASTY]

Filter setup

This is for my 04. 4 LBCC I installed the BF1212 between the fuel tank and the AD 100 as I was told it liked the fuel drawn not pushed thru it. to the AD with the FS19594 and the FF5613 to the stock filter with the Baldwin PF7977 to the cat 1r0750 to the pressure gauge to the CP3. You can say I have 5 fuel filter and 3 water separators. I made the filter brackets from 3/16 in plate that I welded together to make the brackets. The 1212 was mounted from the rear seat bolts I have the split seat pulled the (Metric)factory bolts and installed new ones about 3 inches longer put large washers between the floor of the truck and the filter bracket to have a flat mount surface And nylock nuts to lock it down. The Cat filter is the same mount but I mounted it under the Master Brake Cyl. there are some long bolts that I mounted the it to. I wish I could take credit for that mount but found it on the TDR site from another member it looks like it was made to be there. I also installed a coolant filter same kind of idea I dont know if it was needed but what the hell the filter heads were free. If you get a bit dizzzzzzie from the pics so did I it was cold on the floor of the shop and you know what they say about sitting on cold concrete. Fuel pressure is 14 to 15 and 10 at WOT. Next thing is to remove all lines and have SS lines made up.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Bolts

The seat bolts in the jump seat mount

 

[BIGNASTY]

coolant filter

This is the coolant filter setup

 

[BIGNASTY]

cubby hole for jump seat

This is the jump seat cubby hole with air bag comp.