Catch Can

[JReichenbach]

Are any of you guys running a crankcase vent catch can, if so which ones do you like. My 2005 is leaving a little residue on top of differential housing. Thanks, Jim.

 

[KATOOM]

I eliminated my catch bottle years ago and extended the vent hose another five or six feet. It now exits right under the drivers seat area under the truck. You just have to make sure there's no dips or sag deep enough to allow oil puddling which will block venting.

I cant speak for the 3rd gen or whether or not Dodge addressed the issue but for the 2nd gen the engine vent catch bottle which hung in front of the engine would allow the oily air from the vent to be sucked back into the radiator and over time clog it up with dust and debris. You cant visually see the clogging either as it takes place on the backside between the radiator and the intercooler. But when it gets bad you'll notice hotter temps while towing and the AC doesnt work as good in stop and go traffic.

So it was a must for me...

 

[Ozymandias]

Service the crank case filter under the plastic cover.

 

[mfurrh55]

Service the crank case filter under the plastic cover.

Does an 07 w/5.9 have this?, ive never seen any evidence on mine

 

[Ozymandias]

Pretty sure yes, as it started with the Rail Engine 2003.
Remove the plastic cylinder head cover, there you'll find it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-...9L-Diesel-03-10-/382002626849?redirect=mobile

This part separate oil from air and its efficiency derates over the years.

Mine dripped oil to, after replacement it stopped.

 

[mfurrh55]

Pretty sure yes, as it started with the Rail Engine 2003.
Remove the plastic cylinder head cover, there you'll find it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-...9L-Diesel-03-10-/382002626849?redirect=mobile

This part separate oil from air and its efficiency derates over the years.

Mine dripped oil to, after replacement it stopped.

Wow, Thanks Ozzy, never knew i had it, how do you know if it needs replaced?, don't see any oil anywhere, man that sucker is expensive too

 

[Ozymandias]

If you don't loose oil then leave it alone, it doesn't need regular replacement.
Replace it when the Truck starts marking his territory.

 

[mfurrh55]

If you don't loose oil then leave it alone, it doesn't need regular replacement.Thanks Ozy, Monte
Replace it when the Truck starts marking his territory.

 

[mfurrh55]

Thanks Ozy, Monte

 

[JReichenbach]

"Marking its territory" that about says it all. Thanks!

 

[Prairie Dog]

Mine dripped/leaked from new. Dealer tried installing clamps and I finally gave up and lived with the mess.
Many years later I decided to look at it again and found that after Icleaned it up, I could see that it was leaking from the seam around the top. Bought a new one and it's been dry ever since.
I took the thing apart. There's nothing to it. Nothing to wear, get clogged or ever wear out. Seriously, you could take it off a million mile eng and run it on another.
Only replace it if it's leaking and making a mess.

 

[cerberusiam]

Pretty sure yes, as it started with the Rail Engine 2003.
Remove the plastic cylinder head cover, there you'll find it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-...9L-Diesel-03-10-/382002626849?redirect=mobile

This part separate oil from air and its efficiency derates over the years.

Mine dripped oil to, after replacement it stopped.

That is for the 03-05 with the harness in the VC riser. The 06-07 with harness in the VC gasket use a different one that is just a separator and not replaceable, have to get the whole VC cover I think.

 

[CVR222NV]

While stripping my motor to the long block prior to shipping to be remanufactured I noted that the driver's side of the block had substantially more oil soaked caked on dirt than the passenger side. I attributed that to the fact that the crank case vent tube discharged on that side. I am exploring a solution to this problem. I note that in response to Cerb's post above that my 2006 valve cover does have some sort of crank case ventilation filter but it does look like it is possibly replaceable. See the four screws in the photo below. They are not Torx heads but some other head that I do not recognize. Does anyone recognize the head and the necessary tool to remove them? I don't think they are rivets. I would like to remove it to clean it or replace it if possible.

I like the idea of a catch can and found this one made by Mishimoto:

Mishimoto Universal High-Flow Baffled Catch Can Kit

Has anyone used this kit? You have to supply your own hose. I cannot locate any instructions but am a little confused as to how it works. I assume one hose routes from the valve cover to the "IN" port on the catch can which is mounted somewhere in the engine compartment. However there is an "OUT" port on the catch can and I'm not sure where the hose that would attach goes? Do you route it further down the vehicle frame? Can you put an air filter on the end and attach it somewhere in the engine compartment like the firewall or maybe just on the catch can itself? Any assistance/ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Ozymandias]

From Mishimoto.

The included 3/8” NPT plug in the bottom of the can allows you to drain the can without removing the bottom, or attach our available drain kit for even easier servicing.

Either you plug it or you attach a valve and a piece of hose to that port.

IN is from the engine, OUT goes straight to the Environment.

I'd not attach an air filter to that dump hose as the air coming out will still carry some oil in it and plug that filter together with dust from the environment.

 

[Diesel Gunner]

My truck has 206K miles on it. Used nothing but DELO for the first 150K or so and then switched to Guardol ECT TI and started using Hotshot Secrets Stiction Eliminator and FR3 per instructions. Truck used to mark its spot if it were parked for more than a day. Now, I barely have to wipe anything off when I change the oil on the bottom side and it never leaves a drip anywhere no matter how long its parked. The catch bottle fell off years ago and I just extended the breather hose down below the axle. I check to make sure that it has no blockage each oil change and drive it like I stole it.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Just throwing this out there, but you could get a bung weld it to your exhaust pipe and run a hose from the ccv to it. Venturi effect; oil gets burnt off as its exits. A Powerstroke fabrication shop was selling the bungs, but the design is simple and universal enough.

This is a route im considering.

 

[CVR222NV]

From Mishimoto.



Either you plug it or you attach a valve and a piece of hose to that port.

IN is from the engine, OUT goes straight to the Environment.

I'd not attach an air filter to that dump hose as the air coming out will still carry some oil in it and plug that filter together with dust from the environment.

Thanks Ozy. If I go this route I'll just plug it. Just wanted to understand if it required an outlet for some reason. I would empty and clean the can on each oil change.

 

[CVR222NV]

Just throwing this out there, but you could get a bung weld it to your exhaust pipe and run a hose from the ccv to it. Venturi effect; oil gets burnt off as its exits. A Powerstroke fabrication shop was selling the bungs, but the design is simple and universal enough.

This is a route im considering.

Thanks DBM. Where on the exhaust pipe would you weld the bung? I have a catalytic converter and a muffler but only a downturn tip after the muffler which dumps out in front of the real axle.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Thanks DBM. Where on the exhaust pipe would you weld the bung? I have a catalytic converter and a muffler but only a downturn tip after the muffler which dumps out in front of the real axle.

Down stream of anything with rare metals or sensors requiring 5v reference signals. After the cat would be my go to, keep in mind EGT's and converter temps when selecting a hose to plumb the bung with. Double check the area your looking at with a temp gun.

 

[AnonEd]

@CVR222NV I can't tell for sure but those fasteners look like five-point tamper-resistant torx.