Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Catch can

[petersonj]

We discussed removing the pleated vent and mounting it up higher like near the brake master cylinder. Maybe doing that will keep the oil mist from getting to the filter.

Thoughts?

I think the biggest problem with the OEM crankcase venting is that Cummins is trying to drain separated oil via the mesh screen back into the engine using the same passage that crankcase oil saturated vapors are entering from the engine. In this application, oil will have difficulty flowing against the air current produced by normal engine blow by. Not a good plan.

The Cummins retrofit kit actually uses a separate oil drain, which makes sense to me. The kit is a bit expensive and looks like it could be labor intensive to install.

So, extending the crankcase venting hose does not take care of the oil saturated vapors. All it does is get the vapors away from the radiator, which is a good thing.

I have mine extended to the back of the head and down behind the starter. Of course, it drips oil.

- John

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Different owners certainly have different concerns about this "modification" - as to cold temps, ours get down to zero, and I've been out in temps cold enough to stop me because the diesel fuel froze in the lines - but NEVER any issues with my particular engine oil vapor catch mod. As to doing mods that still allow oil leakage, that might be acceptable for those who park their vehicles outside or in the dirt, but is totally unacceptable for me, because I usually am working underside my truck where it is usually parked - and NO WAY do I intend to be crawling around on an oily mess - NOR do I want it dripping off all under my truck in various places! I realize everyone isn't like me, or as particular - but my truck is 20 years old, and other than mods, looks VERY much as it did that day I bought it new, both TOP, inside, and BOTTOM side!

Yeah - I am an "extremist" when it comes to my rides - but getting - or offering - info related to specific issue of Dodge/Cummins maintenance and repair is why I come HERE - and yeah, MOST folks can't - or won't - take the same attention to detail in their stuff. Some even get a little huffy when I print or show some of my stuff - but I come from a sorta poor backround - and look long and hard at stuff I purchase - and then take very good care of it after - I'm definetly NOT part of the "throwaway" generation!

Here's a pic of the area of my garage floor that is normally under the engine bay of my truck - and the stains seen are dry, and from previous owners of our place:

AND, the engine bay itself:

And yeah, that's the way it looks right now - TODAY!

 

[Cummins12V98]

I think the biggest problem with the OEM crankcase venting is that Cummins is trying to drain separated oil via the mesh screen back into the engine using the same passage that crankcase oil saturated vapors are entering from the engine. In this application, oil will have difficulty flowing against the air current produced by normal engine blow by. Not a good plan.

The Cummins retrofit kit actually uses a separate oil drain, which makes sense to me. The kit is a bit expensive and looks like it could be labor intensive to install.

View attachment 133193

So, extending the crankcase venting hose does not take care of the oil saturated vapors. All it does is get the vapors away from the radiator, which is a good thing.

I have mine extended to the back of the head and down behind the starter. Of course, it drips oil.

- John

Don’t think you get what I was thinking about doing. My PEAK canister is mounted inside my DS bumper. I want to remove the filter from the canister and run a hose from there to the master cylinder area with filter attached. I would hope the oil vapors won’t go up that high.

 

[petersonj]

Don’t think you get what I was thinking about doing.

I think you are correct. Are you talking about leaving the cannister inside the driver's side bumper and just running a hose from the cannister to the filter which would be relocated by the master cylinder?

If that is what you are thinking, it is possible that could work, but maybe not. Whatever oil is being carried by the vapors after leaving the cannister still has to be addressed. That oil will need to be separated out and have a way to return to the cannister before it reaches the filter. Using a large diameter hose to reduce the velocity of the vapors and to allow oil to collect and run back down may help. Maybe a second mesh screen would help as well. One would have to make sure there are no droops in the line which could allow oil to collect and create back pressure.

Have you had the cannister apart? I was wondering if there is a mesh screen inside. Also, just curious, what is the diameter of the rubber hose included in the kit?

- John

 

[Cummins12V98]

Hose is 3/4”ID. Yes I would use same side to run up with no dips. Yes canister is staying inside bumper. No idea what’s inside canister if anything.

 

[petersonj]

@Cummins12V98 , I would like to hear the results if you decide to go that route.

I think all of these engines have different rates of blow by. My truck has dripped oil from the crankcase vent since it was new, but the rate has never changed - I am talking about more than two or three drops. My brother-in-law has an '02 as well and his truck OEM crankcase vent area stays dry - you hardly ever see a drop.

- John

 

[garylmoore]

I completed my Catch Can install. I used the same catch can as Cummins12V98.
First of all, throw away the 5/8" heater hose supplied with the kit. I suffered for a couple hours trying to get this hose over the barbed connection at the can and the nipple of the vent and finally gave up. I purchased 3\4" heater hose and it slipped right on.
I drilled and tapped two holes for the supplied catch can bracket into the frame rail right below the coolant tank to mount can (it took a 3800 rpm drill, hard stuff!). Only about 3 threads in each hole, I hope it stays, cannot get nuts in the boxed rail. I will probably red locktite these socket head cap screws.
I stubbed a 2 1\2" piece of heater hose onto the vent nipple. Used !/2" PVC Pipe with an elbow and short nipple and band clamp, to tie into stub hose. Ran this pvc straight pipe below the upper heater hose to the alternator and attached the heater hose to the catch can there. Maneuvered the hose down the far side of the coolant reservoir and past the intercooler and bottom radiator hose. I have tied it with a zip tie to keep it stable, but looking for for a 1 1\4" cable clamp to make it permanent. I made sure there were no rubs on any of the hoses and I am done. I will post pics when it becomes daylight.

 

[Topzide]

@garylmoore, What about putting a rivet-nut in to the hole for mounting it to the frame rail? That way, you'd have a lot more threads to catch on. They come in lots of flavors for aluminum to SS. They're a great tool to have in the toolbox for mods! JM2C

 

[garylmoore]

They make threaded rivets? That would be great, I would be willing to give it a try. I looked it up, this may work out great, thanks for the great idea!
G

 

[Topzide]

They make things so much easier on projects! I've used them on so many different thing, and boy it's get to be able to take something apart that you might not have been able to otherwise. I was introduced to them in my "automotive days". We had them for the mechanics to install roof racks on Toyota's back in the day. Glad I was able to give you another idea/tool for the toolbox.

 

[DGBaker]

It back in the day was noted to not extend the hose to far if you live in a Northern winter freezing area, and the condensation will freeze and keep freezing until the outlet is plugged and then you blow seals in the engine.

Yup... Had that happen to me this winter... Mine extend below the diff... Front and rear seal started leaking overnight in - 40 weather... Gonna have to change it up before this winter.

 

[FearlessFreddy]

I think the biggest problem with the OEM crankcase venting is that Cummins is trying to drain separated oil via the mesh screen back into the engine using the same passage that crankcase oil saturated vapors are entering from the engine. In this application, oil will have difficulty flowing against the air current produced by normal engine blow by. Not a good plan.

The Cummins retrofit kit actually uses a separate oil drain, which makes sense to me. The kit is a bit expensive and looks like it could be labor intensive to install.

View attachment 133193

So, extending the crankcase venting hose does not take care of the oil saturated vapors. All it does is get the vapors away from the radiator, which is a good thing.

I have mine extended to the back of the head and down behind the starter. Of course, it drips oil.

- John

 

[FearlessFreddy]

The Cummins Filtration kit is without a doubt worth every penny of the around $300 cost. I've had one on my '01 for around 200k miles (now 313+). Not a hard install, and no more snot bottle to wrestle with or clogged radiator. There is a small metal plug to remove down behind the PS pump, and the pictured drain tube goes in that hole, no muss or fuss, and oil vapor and droplets return thereby to the crankcase instead of on the radiator, undercarriage or driveway. The filter/eliminator takes the place of the one Dodge had feeding the snot bottle.

 

[garylmoore]

I am still leaking. I thought all along that the crankcase drain was my problem, but even with the catch can in place, I get very little out of it. I had a leak from the oil drain plug and replaced it with an EZY Drain and that stopped part of my problem. The second leak appears to be coming from either the the power steering\vacuum pump area, or possibly the oil pan\torque converter cover?. An oil pan re-gasket looks like a very ugly job.
I rebuilt the vacuum pump a few years ago, did not touch the power steering pump but to remove\reinstall.
No oil getting on the belts or radiator. More like spreading back over the oil pan. Any Guesses?
I know.. I need to clean it all up to figure it out. What a drag.
Before the catch can, I had the vent line run back over the top of the engine (pvc) to a hose dropping straight down near the back of the block. That that line was rerouted when I replaced the radiator and rebuilt the vacuum pump about 3 years ago.
What makes tracing the leak harder is that for the last 3 years, the truck has been pre winter treated with mineral oil by a "Corrosion Free" Dealer and everything is oil covered. But after 4 Chicago Winters, not a speck of rust anywhere on the underside of the truck.
I am to the point now where nearly everything in front of the firewall with exception of the engine has been replaced. The only thing that has not is the steering box and the power steering unit.
Your comments will be much appreciated.
Gary Moore

 

[garylmoore]

The Cummins Filtration kit is without a doubt worth every penny of the around $300 cost. I've had one on my '01 for around 200k miles (now 313+). Not a hard install, and no more snot bottle to wrestle with or clogged radiator. There is a small metal plug to remove down behind the PS pump, and the pictured drain tube goes in that hole, no muss or fuss, and oil vapor and droplets return thereby to the crankcase instead of on the radiator, undercarriage or driveway. The filter/eliminator takes the place of the one Dodge had feeding the snot bottle.

Dang.. wish I had known about this...

 

[Cummins12V98]

I made a conical metal sleeve and sealed the bottom edge and seam. Have not looked at it to see where the oil is coming from but after a couple weeks I am getting drips again on the ground.

 

[Turbo Terry]

My radiator looked just like that one when I took it out. What a mess it makes under the truck as well

 

[Turbo Terry]

Glad that the new trucks don’t have this problem My 99 blew the seal when the longer hose froze up under the truck was always a big mess underneath and the radiator became seriously plugged up as well Then there was the lift pump issues good trucks but they did have their issues