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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) caTCHER ecm (Marco's aka MAD)
- Thread starter Bob Wagner
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Another Satisfied Customer.... And then some!
I installed my ECM and just took my truck for a spin. Now, keep in mind that I have a '02 auto and other than a bigger exhaust, FASS and aFe intake I am stock. Here are my impressions:
1. Driveability: I was worried about this after reading many of the posts here about throttle sesativity. I can tell everyone that the truck simply drives better now. No problems with sensativity, in fact, other than it revs quicker I think it feels the same as it did before when you step on it. I think that most others so far that have the ECM have other enhancements that might make the throttle that much more sensative for them, but for me, I LOVE IT! Driving on the highway is where she really shines. So much smoother and responsive. Felt like I had a new truck!! Seriously.
2. Smoke: I do not believe I ever created any smoke before in stock config. If I did it was barely noticable. With the ECM I can now make my stock truck smoke. I really need to get on it for it to smoke though. It is extremely manageable. If I wanted to I could make it smoke, if I didn't want to then I simply did not romp on it. At highway speeds accelerating to pass made no smoke unless I dropped the pedal and then it was only a slight puff.
3. EGT's: seemed a bit higher (~50 degrees) but to be honest with you it was not a fair judgement as I was really getting on it. I could not help it.
4. Boost: came on much quicker and I think is a large part of the responsiveness. I could not exceed the stock boost level though of around 20 PSI. I am not sure why as I am not as familiar with that part of the engine. Do I still need a boost fooler? or fuel box? Do I need to do something with the wastefate?
5. Well, since I have a FASS I saw 15 PSI the whole time. no changes even when romping on it.
6. Cruise: As everyone else has said it seemed to hunt a bit more than stock but was barely noticable. I am perfectly happy with it's performance.
I simply love it! If I had to rank the mods in order of money well spent it would look like this:
1. MAD ECM
2. DSS
3. FASS
I have to really thank Marco for repairing the broken ECM I sent him. I got it off of eBay and I have to tell you guys that you really need to be careful. It was advertised as coming out of a working 99' 3500. When I received it the stickers were removed and there was a single sticker from dodge saying that it was reflashed. When Marco got it he told me it was labeled as bad (I did not see it but I believe Marco).
Doug and Marco have a great product here. I am sure glad I did not buy the Edge EZ now...
So... I plan to go to the MDTDR dyno day and see what happens. After driving it now I believe that as others have said that it will change the loom of the HP and TQ curves but not add that much.
Satisfied in Maryland,
Phil
I installed my ECM and just took my truck for a spin. Now, keep in mind that I have a '02 auto and other than a bigger exhaust, FASS and aFe intake I am stock. Here are my impressions:
1. Driveability: I was worried about this after reading many of the posts here about throttle sesativity. I can tell everyone that the truck simply drives better now. No problems with sensativity, in fact, other than it revs quicker I think it feels the same as it did before when you step on it. I think that most others so far that have the ECM have other enhancements that might make the throttle that much more sensative for them, but for me, I LOVE IT! Driving on the highway is where she really shines. So much smoother and responsive. Felt like I had a new truck!! Seriously.
2. Smoke: I do not believe I ever created any smoke before in stock config. If I did it was barely noticable. With the ECM I can now make my stock truck smoke. I really need to get on it for it to smoke though. It is extremely manageable. If I wanted to I could make it smoke, if I didn't want to then I simply did not romp on it. At highway speeds accelerating to pass made no smoke unless I dropped the pedal and then it was only a slight puff.
3. EGT's: seemed a bit higher (~50 degrees) but to be honest with you it was not a fair judgement as I was really getting on it. I could not help it.
4. Boost: came on much quicker and I think is a large part of the responsiveness. I could not exceed the stock boost level though of around 20 PSI. I am not sure why as I am not as familiar with that part of the engine. Do I still need a boost fooler? or fuel box? Do I need to do something with the wastefate?
5. Well, since I have a FASS I saw 15 PSI the whole time. no changes even when romping on it.
6. Cruise: As everyone else has said it seemed to hunt a bit more than stock but was barely noticable. I am perfectly happy with it's performance.
I simply love it! If I had to rank the mods in order of money well spent it would look like this:
1. MAD ECM
2. DSS
3. FASS
I have to really thank Marco for repairing the broken ECM I sent him. I got it off of eBay and I have to tell you guys that you really need to be careful. It was advertised as coming out of a working 99' 3500. When I received it the stickers were removed and there was a single sticker from dodge saying that it was reflashed. When Marco got it he told me it was labeled as bad (I did not see it but I believe Marco).
Doug and Marco have a great product here. I am sure glad I did not buy the Edge EZ now...
So... I plan to go to the MDTDR dyno day and see what happens. After driving it now I believe that as others have said that it will change the loom of the HP and TQ curves but not add that much.
Satisfied in Maryland,
Phil
Couple of other things...
I could not spin my tires with it. I do have Bridgestone Revo's and there traction is excellent which probably has something to do with it. I also have a LSD. I believe my transmission is now the weak link as I could feel it slipping a bit when getting on it. Not a lot but but it felt mushy and not firm and crisp.
uugghh... I am infected now... I need a new transmission, bigger injectors and a larger turbo... say goodbye to a bunch of money... :_
Thanks
Phil
I could not spin my tires with it. I do have Bridgestone Revo's and there traction is excellent which probably has something to do with it. I also have a LSD. I believe my transmission is now the weak link as I could feel it slipping a bit when getting on it. Not a lot but but it felt mushy and not firm and crisp.
uugghh... I am infected now... I need a new transmission, bigger injectors and a larger turbo... say goodbye to a bunch of money... :_
Thanks
Phil
Alright Phil! Welcome to the ranks of "CaTCH ME IF YOU CAN. So happy it worked out for you.
Kat, that is exactly what I did. Took it to a dealer, went thru the back door, mechanic came out with a DRBIII scanner, 2 minutes later had my software version number. This is probably the safest way to save everyone time and money but as Marco does more of them here in the US may not be necessary. The important thing is to try to get a good ECM. Phil got lucky that Marco was able to fix his broken one. One other individual was not so lucky. As previously posted, Marco has suggested ways to tell if it infact is good but as it stands now you would have to do like TCourse did and actually hook up the used one to your truck and see if the "wait to start" lite comes on. Those of you with 2001 and up trucks (maybe the 2000's) seem to have more problem as Dodge was changing in mid-model year, such as 2001 and 2001. 5. Try to give Doug as much info as possible about your truck especially if it is a Federal or Carb truck. This should make it easier for all concerned.
Anyhow, good report Phil, keep the shiny side up and yes, roll into it to save your transmission. I wouldn't worry about injectors, I would save that money for your transmission and then you will really be smiling when you put all of that power to the ground.
Regards,
Roger
Kat, that is exactly what I did. Took it to a dealer, went thru the back door, mechanic came out with a DRBIII scanner, 2 minutes later had my software version number. This is probably the safest way to save everyone time and money but as Marco does more of them here in the US may not be necessary. The important thing is to try to get a good ECM. Phil got lucky that Marco was able to fix his broken one. One other individual was not so lucky. As previously posted, Marco has suggested ways to tell if it infact is good but as it stands now you would have to do like TCourse did and actually hook up the used one to your truck and see if the "wait to start" lite comes on. Those of you with 2001 and up trucks (maybe the 2000's) seem to have more problem as Dodge was changing in mid-model year, such as 2001 and 2001. 5. Try to give Doug as much info as possible about your truck especially if it is a Federal or Carb truck. This should make it easier for all concerned.
Anyhow, good report Phil, keep the shiny side up and yes, roll into it to save your transmission. I wouldn't worry about injectors, I would save that money for your transmission and then you will really be smiling when you put all of that power to the ground.
Regards,
Roger
Phil, I wouldn't even think about removing the ECM without first moving the fuel filter out of the way. It's held on with 10 mm bolts too. The only other tool needed is a 4 mm allen wrench to get the plug out. I needed a stool to stand on also.
I sure hope it works for you. As you know, there's a bunch of us wanting to see what the power curves look like on the dyno.
I sure hope it works for you. As you know, there's a bunch of us wanting to see what the power curves look like on the dyno.
Darkhorse,
Yes... For everyone else who plans on removing / installing their ECM here is a quick write up on my experience:
Tools Needed
- 13 MM socket to loosen battery connector hold down nuts
- 10 MM socket. I used a 3/8 deep set socket, worked good
- 4 MM allen wrench
- Something to stand on
Here is the steps I used to remove the ECM:
1. Disconnect negative battery cables
2. Use 10 MM socket to remove the two bolts on top of the fuel filter bracket
3. drop the bracket down and to the right to create enough clearance to reach the ECM
4. Use the 4 MM allen wrench to loosen the wiring harness. The allen screw is located in between the two clusters of wires going into the plug.
5. drop the wiring harness down to the right to create enough room to access the 3 bolts that hold the ECM to the block
6. Remove the three screws that hold the ECM in place with the 10 MM socket
7. Slide the now loose ECM forward and then down to clear the fuel lines.
8. Attaching the new ECM is opposite of removal
9. I found that none of the screws were very tight so I would recommend to only snug them up as tightening too much may break something
I do not know if all of you guys have been disconnecting the battery cables but I ALWAYS do this when working with electricity. It is just much safer this way and will end up saving you money! Trust me, I learned this when I owned a old Plymounth Valiant with a Slant 6 and was replacing the alternator...
Took me maybe 20 minutes to do the whole thing.
Hope that helps!
Phil
Yes... For everyone else who plans on removing / installing their ECM here is a quick write up on my experience:
Tools Needed
- 13 MM socket to loosen battery connector hold down nuts
- 10 MM socket. I used a 3/8 deep set socket, worked good
- 4 MM allen wrench
- Something to stand on
Here is the steps I used to remove the ECM:
1. Disconnect negative battery cables
2. Use 10 MM socket to remove the two bolts on top of the fuel filter bracket
3. drop the bracket down and to the right to create enough clearance to reach the ECM
4. Use the 4 MM allen wrench to loosen the wiring harness. The allen screw is located in between the two clusters of wires going into the plug.
5. drop the wiring harness down to the right to create enough room to access the 3 bolts that hold the ECM to the block
6. Remove the three screws that hold the ECM in place with the 10 MM socket
7. Slide the now loose ECM forward and then down to clear the fuel lines.
8. Attaching the new ECM is opposite of removal
9. I found that none of the screws were very tight so I would recommend to only snug them up as tightening too much may break something
I do not know if all of you guys have been disconnecting the battery cables but I ALWAYS do this when working with electricity. It is just much safer this way and will end up saving you money! Trust me, I learned this when I owned a old Plymounth Valiant with a Slant 6 and was replacing the alternator...
Took me maybe 20 minutes to do the whole thing.
Hope that helps!
Phil
Phil, unless you replace the standard fitting on the waste gate actuator line with a boost elbow, the waste gate will limit you to about 20 psi. I am using one of Don Troxell's adjustable elbows. With that it's not difficult to get around 30 psi. He has a listing in the TDR classifieds.
PRyker, in your case, you will need to use a turnbuckle, or 'J'-hook. I prefer the turnbuckle. It's cheap and easy to install.
What is happening is that your wastegate is preventing your engine from getting any more boost mechanically. You need to disable it to get more boost.
You shouldn't have to worry about boost levels until you enter the 45-50 psi arena. Your head gasket and bolts should be fine until then. If your turbine hits 45 psi, that's what'll pop first. Not the gasket. 50psi will snap it for sure. So for the time being, I wouldn't worry.
And guys, before you get your undies in a wad, I know that completely disabling the wastegate isn't the best plan, but he's not making enough boost (or pushing enough fuel) to warrant the waste gate not being pinned shut.
What is happening is that your wastegate is preventing your engine from getting any more boost mechanically. You need to disable it to get more boost.
You shouldn't have to worry about boost levels until you enter the 45-50 psi arena. Your head gasket and bolts should be fine until then. If your turbine hits 45 psi, that's what'll pop first. Not the gasket. 50psi will snap it for sure. So for the time being, I wouldn't worry.
And guys, before you get your undies in a wad, I know that completely disabling the wastegate isn't the best plan, but he's not making enough boost (or pushing enough fuel) to warrant the waste gate not being pinned shut.
Great report Phil, I was just waiting to hear what the ecm does on a stock truck. Now it's time to find a used ecm and get it going... .
btw - I have been running with a turnbuckle for almost 2 years now, with an EZ, and the boost has never exceeded 30psi even on steep grades while towing heavy. No issues so far, and it sure helps to keep the egt temp down.
btw - I have been running with a turnbuckle for almost 2 years now, with an EZ, and the boost has never exceeded 30psi even on steep grades while towing heavy. No issues so far, and it sure helps to keep the egt temp down.
Phil, I consistantly hit 34 lb of boost with just the EZ and the provided elbow I got with it. No problems yet... ... ... now, how do you get it to go over 34 lbs, bigger exhaust housing or turbo?
Guys,
Thanks for the feedback. Does anyone sell the J-hook? I would be interested in that since rather than holding the wategate shut it sounds like it retards it more yes?
I have probably driven about 50 miles now with the MAD ECM and if I had to take it out and put the stock ECM back in I would be really bummed out. It is such a thrill driving with this ECM. I feel like a kid again. (I am 35). I see no reason why anyone would go back to stock other than some emission test or if the dealer wanted to reflash the ECM to test something for warranty work (Do not let them re-flash your MAD equipped ECM, it will bring it back to stock). I have not been able to see whether the gas milage has changed or not as I have been driving like I stole it since I put the MAD ECM in.
I love it more now than I did 50 miles ago. I will stop going on about it now.
Thanks
Phil
Thanks for the feedback. Does anyone sell the J-hook? I would be interested in that since rather than holding the wategate shut it sounds like it retards it more yes?
I have probably driven about 50 miles now with the MAD ECM and if I had to take it out and put the stock ECM back in I would be really bummed out. It is such a thrill driving with this ECM. I feel like a kid again. (I am 35). I see no reason why anyone would go back to stock other than some emission test or if the dealer wanted to reflash the ECM to test something for warranty work (Do not let them re-flash your MAD equipped ECM, it will bring it back to stock). I have not been able to see whether the gas milage has changed or not as I have been driving like I stole it since I put the MAD ECM in.
I love it more now than I did 50 miles ago. I will stop going on about it now.
Thanks
Phil
J-hooks/turnbuckles are a standard hardware store item...
Phil, if ya make it to Kauffmans, can I get a ride in it to see what its like?
Finally got back to a computer. In my experience, to get more boost, add more fuel 
! Plus the boost elbow that edge supplys with their comp. Every time I've done an upgrade, I've got more boost. Now with the catcher, I'm making too much (42lbs).
By the way this thing definatly adds horsepower!!! How much I'm not sure, but this truck will flat fly now! So far the catcher is working except for cruise control and wait to start light but Marco said the ecm was bad and tried to fix it and wasn't sure if it would even work. I'm glad it did! It runs just like everyone says. I wanted to make it to a truck pull Friday and they had a dyno there. Unfortunatly I couldn't make it but I'm wanting to dyno this thing bad! Hopefully soon!
! Plus the boost elbow that edge supplys with their comp. Every time I've done an upgrade, I've got more boost. Now with the catcher, I'm making too much (42lbs). By the way this thing definatly adds horsepower!!! How much I'm not sure, but this truck will flat fly now! So far the catcher is working except for cruise control and wait to start light but Marco said the ecm was bad and tried to fix it and wasn't sure if it would even work. I'm glad it did! It runs just like everyone says. I wanted to make it to a truck pull Friday and they had a dyno there. Unfortunatly I couldn't make it but I'm wanting to dyno this thing bad! Hopefully soon!
I can't help it...
I can't help but get into the throttle with the MAD ECM. and there are consequences... My transmission is now slipping more. The ECM really can put down the power if you step on it, but, appears transmission cannot handle it.
It has been REALLY mushy feeling today. The truck would rev up but was slow to get going. Othertimes it seemed more peppy. Is this how is starts? I knew it would happen. fortunetly I have been saving for a transmission anyways. I have my eye on the 'ol ATS...
I would be interested to hear of the experience of other users as if this is how is started for them? How long will I be able to go with this darn slushbox? I guess I better start planning on where I am going to get this done at.
If anything this is further proof that the ECM may be adding more HP and TQ than many are thinking it is. The problem now is that I am suppose to dyno Saturday. With a slipping transmission the numbers are probably not going to be accurate.
Thoughts?
Phil
I can't help but get into the throttle with the MAD ECM. and there are consequences... My transmission is now slipping more. The ECM really can put down the power if you step on it, but, appears transmission cannot handle it.
It has been REALLY mushy feeling today. The truck would rev up but was slow to get going. Othertimes it seemed more peppy. Is this how is starts? I knew it would happen. fortunetly I have been saving for a transmission anyways. I have my eye on the 'ol ATS...
I would be interested to hear of the experience of other users as if this is how is started for them? How long will I be able to go with this darn slushbox? I guess I better start planning on where I am going to get this done at.
If anything this is further proof that the ECM may be adding more HP and TQ than many are thinking it is. The problem now is that I am suppose to dyno Saturday. With a slipping transmission the numbers are probably not going to be accurate.
Thoughts?
Phil
Yeah, don't dyno, save it and baby it till you can afford to get some work done on the slush box. And remember, roll into it, don't stab it. You have lots of options realtively near you for TC/transmission work. I would say at a minimum, install a TC and valve body. That will get you further. Isn't Mass Diesel (DTT) dealer fairly close to you?
GL, Roger
GL, Roger
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
