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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) caTCHER ecm (Marco's aka MAD)
- Thread starter Bob Wagner
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Offering a public apology to JyRo wherein I referred to his dissertation as long-winded. That is/was certainly not politically correct of me and again I am sorry. Far be it from me (and I have even begged indulgence and have stated my own posts are sometimes long-winded) to critique anothers post as we all have value to contribute to these threads and that's what makes this site special.
Sincerely,
Roger
Sincerely,
Roger
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so far I have only found one time when the throttle was to sensitive and that was when I was off the pavement. Even wet pavement is ok.
To the guys with the 02 HO that have the stutter or miss. Mines seems better with the new ecm but it didn't fix it. I will know more when it gets cold out. Anyway I was towing a boat last weekend and it was missing down low in the rpm. (below 2000) If I was around 1800 rpm pushing 30 psi of boost it was really bad. Interstate speeds 75 mph missing was less then it has been in the past when it was bad. If I dropped a gear and got the rpm up more it would almost go away but you could still feel a slight stutter. The truth will come for me the first time it's below 30 deg out.
For the guys with Marco's ecm wait till you drop a lot of weight behind your truck. HOLY COW I could effortlessly push 40 psi of boost with out any fueling box on. I am going to say it makes boost about as good as a edge comp box on level 3 without the surge of power you get when towing with the comp on 3. It is very smooth, "unlike my comp is when trying to pull" I got very little drive line noise compared to pulling with the comp on. when pull a load 1300 to 1600 rpm I used to get a lot of drive line noise. That is almost gone.
It's got to be better for the truck, Sure makes the radio sound better 
To the guys with the 02 HO that have the stutter or miss. Mines seems better with the new ecm but it didn't fix it. I will know more when it gets cold out. Anyway I was towing a boat last weekend and it was missing down low in the rpm. (below 2000) If I was around 1800 rpm pushing 30 psi of boost it was really bad. Interstate speeds 75 mph missing was less then it has been in the past when it was bad. If I dropped a gear and got the rpm up more it would almost go away but you could still feel a slight stutter. The truth will come for me the first time it's below 30 deg out.
For the guys with Marco's ecm wait till you drop a lot of weight behind your truck. HOLY COW I could effortlessly push 40 psi of boost with out any fueling box on. I am going to say it makes boost about as good as a edge comp box on level 3 without the surge of power you get when towing with the comp on 3. It is very smooth, "unlike my comp is when trying to pull" I got very little drive line noise compared to pulling with the comp on. when pull a load 1300 to 1600 rpm I used to get a lot of drive line noise. That is almost gone.
It's got to be better for the truck, Sure makes the radio sound better Shoot! I hate to dig back through all the pages. Link me to the place to find more info, like price and such, thanks 
. The description of the sesitivity of the pedal makes it seem OK to me. I still have a bit of worry for other drivers, but I do have control of who I let drive the thing.
- JyRO
. The description of the sesitivity of the pedal makes it seem OK to me. I still have a bit of worry for other drivers, but I do have control of who I let drive the thing. - JyRO
My have found out why I have gotten 2 bad ECM's from Marco.
Had my truck checked with the handy dandy little scanner. I have a early 2001 1 ton cab chassie. Truck was made 6-29-00. Even though it is a 2001 it shows to have a 2000 ECM in it. This may be what was the problem with the ECM's Marco sent me... . Time will tell.
Had my truck checked with the handy dandy little scanner. I have a early 2001 1 ton cab chassie. Truck was made 6-29-00. Even though it is a 2001 it shows to have a 2000 ECM in it. This may be what was the problem with the ECM's Marco sent me... . Time will tell.
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JyRO, contact Doug at ( www.smokindiesel.com ) or Bob Wagner on here with a PM.
Merle, I hope your problem is as simple as a mis match in the program. You have had to wait an extra long time to tickle your throttle with a fully functional MAD CaTCHER. I'm sure it will have you like the rest of us.
Merle, I hope your problem is as simple as a mis match in the program. You have had to wait an extra long time to tickle your throttle with a fully functional MAD CaTCHER. I'm sure it will have you
like the rest of us.
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I might get MAD
Apologies in advance for the length of this... ... dismiss it to one of the first posts of a new member. I’m as green as it gets
. Nothing I can say here can hardly be new info, so I encourage you to skip the whole post LOL.
I debated for a while whether to post at all, as I’m likely the newest member to post in this thread. But I’m interested in the CaTCHER and wanted to speak up and just thank the TDR collective for helping newbies like me understand the basics.
I own a stock CTD. But it’s not by choice—it took me years just to be able to afford my used ’99 earlier this year (I lucked out that it came with some cool accessories). I reckon the only time the hood’s been open is for regular oil changes, fuel filter changes, and air filter changes (probably not too far off). I just joined TDR and have been reading in the forums as if they were Steinbeck novels. This thread is no exception—it’s been an edge-of-your-seat experience for me. Like JyRO, I read the whole thing--took me several days. As most of you, I’ve been very impressed with Marco’s frankness, sincerity, and no doubt, his knowledge about his product. I am entertaining the idea of my very first performance mod being a CaTCHER ECM. If you still owned a bare stock truck, what would you do? I'm thinking this would be your 1st mod--well for most of you anyway. Just wanted some feedback.
I’m prepared for the throttle sensitivity. I’m prepared for the possible smoke (from what I’m reading, my stock injectors won’t produce much). I’m prepared for possible issues with cruise. I’m prepared for the potential clutch slippage. I’m prepared to have the ECM tested before I buy it (“wait to start” test). I’ve been warned. And I understand that the CaTCHER may not be suitable for everyone (depending on what you’re trying to accomplish with your truck). All in all, you all have helped the cream rise to the surface, told me what to expect—thanks again!
I live in a place that has snow/ice on the ground for 6-7 months a year. With the throttle being so sensitive, I'd keep close tabs on the CaTCHER. (Gary said it well in post #504) Actually, this would be a PERFECT reason to keep my stock ECM and switch to it for winter driving if need be. I don’t believe any USA CaTCHERs have gone through a winter yet.
For me, I just need some more power when towing. I feel like a wimp pulling my little RV trailer up a hill and I can’t even pass a car going 55mph on a moderate incline. I don’t even pass anymore for safety reasons, unless I have an unobstructed mile on a flat or decline. I need better responsiveness for passing situations. And I need better power than stock. It’s ridiculous. Oh wait, you’ve all been through this before! That explains why the stock owner is a rare breed (being facetious). Is this the right mod for me? Your opinions are welcome.
I don’t know anything about all these other mods you all have in your trucks or how easy (or difficult) they were to install (I have much more reading to do in the other threads), but how can you beat a mod that requires 30 minutes of labor tops, a few 10mm bolts, and connection to a 50-pin plug?? I’m all about doing it yourself when/where possible.
Another question: I read about the initial problems with the 01 vs. 01. 5 software and the Fed vs. CA trucks. I don’t recall seeing if the 99 model year has the Fed vs. CA truck issue? In other words, to be flashed with the correct CaTCHER software, does it even matter if my 99 is Fed or CA?
I drive pretty conservatively and use power only when I need it (passing, making a traffic light, etc. ). I'll be watching future posts for reports on what the CaTCHER does to fuel economy under casual-to-moderate driving conditions (if this was answered in the thread, it must have been too early on for my memory). Fuel economy is a pretty big factor for me, but am willing to sacrifice it to a point if it will help me pass slow pokes!
Wanted to hear what you have to say before I start looking for a spare ECM on eBay (or elsewhere) so I can send it to be labotomized—and given a new, virile brain.
Thank you for your time.
Matthew
Apologies in advance for the length of this... ... dismiss it to one of the first posts of a new member. I’m as green as it gets
. Nothing I can say here can hardly be new info, so I encourage you to skip the whole post LOL. I debated for a while whether to post at all, as I’m likely the newest member to post in this thread. But I’m interested in the CaTCHER and wanted to speak up and just thank the TDR collective for helping newbies like me understand the basics.
I own a stock CTD. But it’s not by choice—it took me years just to be able to afford my used ’99 earlier this year (I lucked out that it came with some cool accessories). I reckon the only time the hood’s been open is for regular oil changes, fuel filter changes, and air filter changes (probably not too far off). I just joined TDR and have been reading in the forums as if they were Steinbeck novels. This thread is no exception—it’s been an edge-of-your-seat experience for me. Like JyRO, I read the whole thing--took me several days. As most of you, I’ve been very impressed with Marco’s frankness, sincerity, and no doubt, his knowledge about his product. I am entertaining the idea of my very first performance mod being a CaTCHER ECM. If you still owned a bare stock truck, what would you do? I'm thinking this would be your 1st mod--well for most of you anyway. Just wanted some feedback.
I’m prepared for the throttle sensitivity. I’m prepared for the possible smoke (from what I’m reading, my stock injectors won’t produce much). I’m prepared for possible issues with cruise. I’m prepared for the potential clutch slippage. I’m prepared to have the ECM tested before I buy it (“wait to start” test). I’ve been warned. And I understand that the CaTCHER may not be suitable for everyone (depending on what you’re trying to accomplish with your truck). All in all, you all have helped the cream rise to the surface, told me what to expect—thanks again!
I live in a place that has snow/ice on the ground for 6-7 months a year. With the throttle being so sensitive, I'd keep close tabs on the CaTCHER. (Gary said it well in post #504) Actually, this would be a PERFECT reason to keep my stock ECM and switch to it for winter driving if need be. I don’t believe any USA CaTCHERs have gone through a winter yet.
For me, I just need some more power when towing. I feel like a wimp pulling my little RV trailer up a hill and I can’t even pass a car going 55mph on a moderate incline. I don’t even pass anymore for safety reasons, unless I have an unobstructed mile on a flat or decline. I need better responsiveness for passing situations. And I need better power than stock. It’s ridiculous. Oh wait, you’ve all been through this before! That explains why the stock owner is a rare breed (being facetious). Is this the right mod for me? Your opinions are welcome.
I don’t know anything about all these other mods you all have in your trucks or how easy (or difficult) they were to install (I have much more reading to do in the other threads), but how can you beat a mod that requires 30 minutes of labor tops, a few 10mm bolts, and connection to a 50-pin plug?? I’m all about doing it yourself when/where possible.
Another question: I read about the initial problems with the 01 vs. 01. 5 software and the Fed vs. CA trucks. I don’t recall seeing if the 99 model year has the Fed vs. CA truck issue? In other words, to be flashed with the correct CaTCHER software, does it even matter if my 99 is Fed or CA?
I drive pretty conservatively and use power only when I need it (passing, making a traffic light, etc. ). I'll be watching future posts for reports on what the CaTCHER does to fuel economy under casual-to-moderate driving conditions (if this was answered in the thread, it must have been too early on for my memory). Fuel economy is a pretty big factor for me, but am willing to sacrifice it to a point if it will help me pass slow pokes!
Wanted to hear what you have to say before I start looking for a spare ECM on eBay (or elsewhere) so I can send it to be labotomized—and given a new, virile brain.
Thank you for your time.
Matthew
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Matt, those are good questions. My first bomb was a used Edge EZ. It worked great & was even easier than the CaTCHER to install. You could probably get a used one for about half the price of the CaTCHER but new ones cost about the same. That's not counting whatever you pay for the spare ECM. After driving both, I'd say the CaTCHER comes on sooner with a little more. Milage with the two units seems about the same which is a slight improvement over stock assumingyou don't play with the extra power too much. I haven't got very good milage figures yet due to the play factor, but I can say that the figures haven't dropped. My EZ never slipped the stock clutch untill I installed mach 1. 5 injectors. I've never run the CaTCHER without the mach 1. 5's so I don't know for certain, but I suspect the stock clutch would hold up fairly well.
Matt, don't ever hesitate to ask any question of your TDR bretheren. We've been asked everything under the sun, so I promise, you won't surprise us.
As for your mods, the very first mod you should get is a set of gauges. Boost, Pyrometer, and Fuel pressure. Lemme make sure I get this point across to you very plainly. YOU NEED GAUGES!!!
There. Now that that's outta the way. I have a '99 almost identical to yours. Less the mods, of course. I can tell you that you should be able to drive the truck in the winter with little to no problems. You'll just have to retrain yourself to the new throttle characteristics. Or you could get the EZ. My ECM is fine on its own, but with the EZ added, it really scoots. So you could have one or the other.
Smoke and cruise sensitivity shouldn't be that much of a problem with your truck. Your cruise will adapt to it's new pedal configuration. You also shouldn't have too much problem with smoke. You're just not moving enough fuel for the smoke to become obnoxious.
Now your clutch, that's a different story. I believe that with enough flogging, your clutch will not last. The stock units on these trucks isn't meant for the kind of abuse this ECM will give it. But now, the EZ will also do the same. Both will take out a clutch. It's just a matter of time.
Yes there were 2 programs. One CA and one Fed for our trucks. Either one can be reflashed. I think the CA program for our year was a 215 HP program. The rest were 235. You should be able to find a label in your engine compartment telling you the type of emissions program your truck came with. It's on the underside of the hood.
Hopefully this answered your questions on the ECM and your truck. If not, please do not hesitate to drop me a PM. I'll do what I can. I've been in and outta the '99 (and seen it's glory and true ugliness) and can probably help in some fashoin. Or, if you don't mind the telephone bill, give me a call. Enjoy your truck. Later.
Aron
As for your mods, the very first mod you should get is a set of gauges. Boost, Pyrometer, and Fuel pressure. Lemme make sure I get this point across to you very plainly. YOU NEED GAUGES!!!
There. Now that that's outta the way. I have a '99 almost identical to yours. Less the mods, of course. I can tell you that you should be able to drive the truck in the winter with little to no problems. You'll just have to retrain yourself to the new throttle characteristics. Or you could get the EZ. My ECM is fine on its own, but with the EZ added, it really scoots. So you could have one or the other.
Smoke and cruise sensitivity shouldn't be that much of a problem with your truck. Your cruise will adapt to it's new pedal configuration. You also shouldn't have too much problem with smoke. You're just not moving enough fuel for the smoke to become obnoxious.
Now your clutch, that's a different story. I believe that with enough flogging, your clutch will not last. The stock units on these trucks isn't meant for the kind of abuse this ECM will give it. But now, the EZ will also do the same. Both will take out a clutch. It's just a matter of time.
Yes there were 2 programs. One CA and one Fed for our trucks. Either one can be reflashed. I think the CA program for our year was a 215 HP program. The rest were 235. You should be able to find a label in your engine compartment telling you the type of emissions program your truck came with. It's on the underside of the hood.
Hopefully this answered your questions on the ECM and your truck. If not, please do not hesitate to drop me a PM. I'll do what I can. I've been in and outta the '99 (and seen it's glory and true ugliness) and can probably help in some fashoin. Or, if you don't mind the telephone bill, give me a call. Enjoy your truck. Later.
Aron
Amianthus said:
I'll second what Aron said here. I'm a 12valve owner, but guages are in my opinion nessissary with a stock truck. Aron has seen the ugly side of a 24valve, just ask him about the reluctor ring on the crankshaft!
Aron, with the twins, and multiple boxes, along with the MAD ECM, what have you noticed? I'm still playin catch-up with this thread, so if you have already talked about it... . I'll find it.
Josh
The biggest thing I've noticed has been that the twins are better behaved. I mean there are driveability issues that one has to adapt to, but as far as the machine is concerned, a big improvement has been how the twins behave.
Under full power, the smoke is the same as it was pre-Catcher. Temps are the same as they were pre-Catcher. Total power feels the same as it was. Just the spool up seems to be better.
The only regret I have is that I was hoping to get rid of my EZ. But I find that the truck really likes to run with both the Catcher AND the EZ. At least on my truck it does.
Reluctor ring?! Oh hardy, har har.
Under full power, the smoke is the same as it was pre-Catcher. Temps are the same as they were pre-Catcher. Total power feels the same as it was. Just the spool up seems to be better.
The only regret I have is that I was hoping to get rid of my EZ. But I find that the truck really likes to run with both the Catcher AND the EZ. At least on my truck it does.
Reluctor ring?! Oh hardy, har har.
ukmuk said:Apologies in advance... ... . I read the whole thing--took me several days... ... Fuel economy is a pretty big factor for me... .
Matthew
Hello Matthew,
Welcome to TDR. You have just made the first big step in getting acquainted with your new pride and joy. I have found the folks here to be generous without fault in their willingness to help anyone with a problem. I am somewhat new here myself, only joined up in March 2004.
My truck is a 98. 5, not that much different than yours and it is bone stock. Upgrades so far have been to acquire a full set of guages.
My next upgrade has been learning what to do next that will provide the most bang for the buck, and to not break the transmission. Like you, I just acquired my CTD recently (12/2003) and purchased it well used, but cared for. Money doesn't grow on trees around here so I have to be careful, therefore I can appreciate your concerns.
I haven't had the opportunity to drive the CaTCHER yet, no one close enough to Phoenix owns one so far as I know.
One comment on reading long threads. Click on the Thread Options and Download the post. Then load it into your word processor. Then you can quickly scan it and delete all the sections that don't pertain to what you want to learn. That is what I did, and it makes for a much more informative document to retain. Then I just copy new information and add to my document. This condensed the thread is something that can be managed very quickly without having to wait for the pages to update between reads. Also gets rid of all the junk screen displays that aren't of import to your quest.
Never hesitate to put forth a query, never appologize for a longer post. Sometimes it just takes more words to get it across. I would much prefer to read 10 pages of good info, or solidly thought out questions, than to read 1 page of off the wall stuff (that never happens here
). There will be plenty of fun poked around to make it all the more enjoyable. Welcome and enjoy,
John
Murle, sounds as tho you have a handle on why the CaTCHER is not working on your truck. I know you have been thru a lot but just hang on. Marco should be back to work next week I think and I know he and Doug will do right by you. Obviously they want this program to suceed just as much a we do. Their customer service is top notch. I know that you know it will be worth it in the long run. Keep us posted. Besides, you will still be in an elite group even tho you have been thrown off of schedule for and extra 3 weeks. I smile every time I drive my truck, I always have but even more so now!
I am still experimenting with running just the CaTCHER and the CaTCHER with the drag comp on 1x1. I guess I am one of the few that claims it smokes more off of the line with the box on. But, all trucks are different and we have different mods. Different strokes for different folks.
Hang in there Murle, it will be worth it!
Roger
I am still experimenting with running just the CaTCHER and the CaTCHER with the drag comp on 1x1. I guess I am one of the few that claims it smokes more off of the line with the box on. But, all trucks are different and we have different mods. Different strokes for different folks.
Hang in there Murle, it will be worth it!
Roger
Aron, Josh, and John:
Thanks for all the tips. And for making me feel right at home.
Gauges... ... ..... gauges... ... ... ... got it!
I have tons to learn yet; I'm an infant in the diesel scene, but never too late to start. Heck I don't even know what a Pyrometer is (although I'm assuming it's to measure EGTs so you don't have an engine block meltdown?), or what harm too much or too little fuel pressure can do. Like any other gauge, I'm sure these gauges tell the story of your truck's health and status--and whether you should pull over to avoid imminent harm!
I won't bog this thread down with posts of too much "entry-level" information, but what I will do is a bunch of thread searches for keywords like Pyrometer, gauges, etc. I'm in a major data gathering mode. I want to do the best I can to treat my truck right and extend its life to the fullest for years of enjoyment (sounds like a human relationship).
So, Aron what happened with the reluctor ring on the crankshaft and how would a gauge have prevented it?
Thanks for the tips on downloading a thread, John. I'll do that.
I do all possible maintenance myself--always have. Unfortantely, the caveat is if I have the time and the tools. That usually excludes engine overhauls and transmission work (for me anyway). Since I always buy the factory service manuals and Haynes manuals for all my vehicles, the knowledge usually isn't a factor. My favorite thing about TDR is that I can come on here and ask about a particular repair and get instant support, tips, pitfalls, etc. I just replaced my fan clutch in this manner. It was so satisfying getting tips and tricks that even shortcut those in the Haynes manual LOL.
Anyway, as I wrestle with the notion of getting an EZ -or- a CaTCHER, I'll bid you all a good day!
Cheers,
Matthew
Thanks for all the tips. And for making me feel right at home.
Gauges... ... ..... gauges... ... ... ... got it!
I have tons to learn yet; I'm an infant in the diesel scene, but never too late to start. Heck I don't even know what a Pyrometer is (although I'm assuming it's to measure EGTs so you don't have an engine block meltdown?), or what harm too much or too little fuel pressure can do. Like any other gauge, I'm sure these gauges tell the story of your truck's health and status--and whether you should pull over to avoid imminent harm!
I won't bog this thread down with posts of too much "entry-level" information, but what I will do is a bunch of thread searches for keywords like Pyrometer, gauges, etc. I'm in a major data gathering mode. I want to do the best I can to treat my truck right and extend its life to the fullest for years of enjoyment (sounds like a human relationship).
So, Aron what happened with the reluctor ring on the crankshaft and how would a gauge have prevented it?
Thanks for the tips on downloading a thread, John. I'll do that.
I do all possible maintenance myself--always have. Unfortantely, the caveat is if I have the time and the tools. That usually excludes engine overhauls and transmission work (for me anyway). Since I always buy the factory service manuals and Haynes manuals for all my vehicles, the knowledge usually isn't a factor. My favorite thing about TDR is that I can come on here and ask about a particular repair and get instant support, tips, pitfalls, etc. I just replaced my fan clutch in this manner. It was so satisfying getting tips and tricks that even shortcut those in the Haynes manual LOL.
Anyway, as I wrestle with the notion of getting an EZ -or- a CaTCHER, I'll bid you all a good day!
Cheers,
Matthew
Bob Wagner
TDR MEMBER
and a whiff of oregano 
welcome back Marco
welcome back Marco towing with the MAD CaTCHER
I got about 80 miles of towing in yesterday. Two horses in my steel gooseneck slant load run about 7,000 lb. The CaTCHER + mach 1. 5's make for a smoothe ride, speeds to 70 mph, no loss of speed on hills & I only saw 1,000* egt one time. Marco (welcome back) you have a winner here!
I got about 80 miles of towing in yesterday. Two horses in my steel gooseneck slant load run about 7,000 lb. The CaTCHER + mach 1. 5's make for a smoothe ride, speeds to 70 mph, no loss of speed on hills & I only saw 1,000* egt one time. Marco (welcome back) you have a winner here!
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