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Injector issue

First pull with 05

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I hope none of you will have to see this image with your own input shafts. This was the cause of my recent transmission problems. Finally got the truck back and it's running great. It's nice knowing that I won't snap my input shaft again. I replaced the stocker (obviously) with a dtt billet input shaft and hub. If you upgrade your transmission UPGRADE YOUR INPUT SHAFT!!! :D :D :D
 
Hi, Mr. CLAYTON.



I noticed, in you signature, that you have a Suncoast transmission, in your truck.



I have a couple of friends with Duramax/Allison's that are thinking of doing the Suncoast conversion and I was wondering what your experience has been with your trans? Does it seem to be as strong as the DTT or ATS conversions? Was price a major consideration in choosing the Suncoast? Would you do it again?



From what my friends say, the Suncoast has a good reputation with their Allison upgrades and, I believe, they are a bit cheaper.



I'm not trying to start a "transmission war", just curious about the strength, durability and costs of these transmissions.



Thanks, CLAYTON.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
Buffalo,



Suncoast has been nothing but good to work with. I had to ship my TC to Suncoast and they pulled a new one off the shelf and shipped it back. The splines were scarred and a piece of the input shaft was stuck in the TC. I haven't had any other converter in except the stocker so I can't compare to DTT or ATS or any other out there. What I can tell you is that this Suncoast transmission is sweet. The shifts are firm and don't feel mushy and when it locks up it's solid as a rock. It sure puts the power to the ground. I would buy Suncoast again if I had to do it again. I bought this one off a friend for a good price. So I guess the price was an incentive. If I couldn't of gotten it from my buddy knowing what I know now I would buy straight from Suncoast. I'm nothing but smiles when I drive my truck :D :D
 
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CLAYTON said:
After it's gold plated should I set in on the mantle :D :-laf



Settin' it on the toilet tank is sure to bring some quizzical comments. :D



In good jest (in case SWMBO is listening) :-laf ,

John
 
Buffalo - for your info only... ATS DTT and Suncoast togather!!!!



I (a diesel truck resourse website member - not me. . but I am a member of DTR as well. . ) went with ATS. ATS is good stuff. I did a lot of research before I did mine, but as everything else in the diesel performance area, things change fast. If I had to do it again, with the newer products on the market, this is the way I would go for the ultimate transmission:



Suncoast triple disk 91% torque converter. Why? With the torque these trucks make, I believe a triple disk is essential to long converter life, especially if you like to tow in overdrive. When I did my trans, ATS was the only triple disk available. Now that Suncoast has released theirs, with a power transfer rate of 91%, that can't be beat. ATS is closer to 89%. DTT offers a 91% converter, but in a single disk. The 91% will put more power to the ground (although some don't like it for towing) and yield slightly better mileage.



ATS valve body. Why? I never have been able to find specs for the Suncoast valve body, so I don't know what it's fluid flow rates and pressures are. DTT I feel is a little high, necessary to keep the single disk from slipping, but the ATS is just about right.



DTT master update kit. Why? This is basically the innards of the trans. Bill has reengineered a lot of the internal parts, many from billet, to provide better sealing surfaces to prevent internal leakage, state-of-the-art clutch pack design, etc. . Just makes for a much smoother and cooler operating unit over stock, but mandatory if over 800 ft lbs of torque or you are a consistent drag racer.



DTT billet input shaft. Why? Well, because the stock ones don't like anything over 800 ft lbs for towing and have popped at less drag racing. Cheap insurance for a worry free day at the drag strip. DTT just happens to have the cheapest shaft.



You can have the parts shipped to your door, then take to the installer of your choice.
 
Matt400 said:
In addition to the added stress this combo adds I would also be curious what the conditions were that broke it?

I broke it merging with traffic on the freeway. I slowly went from half throttle to full throttle and when the 3rd to 4th shift happened I heard a loud BANG and I had nothing. It's a horrible sound to hear your truck make. I'm sure it was a combination of things. I never did boost launches with the upgraded transmission so it wasn't the stress from that. I was to afraid of snapping my input shaft :rolleyes: I hot rod around a fair bit so some of it could have been from that. I tow aggressively and I'm sure a lot of it was from that. Towing in level 4 or 5 has to be hard on the shafts. I don't really baby my truck to much except when it comes to maintenance. Now with a billet input shaft I'm excited to try some 4x4, 10-15psi boost launches.
 
I have broken 2 Billet input shafts and 1 intermediate. It is a fix for the most part, but shift pressures along with high horsepower and leverage of big tires does tear things apart no matter what you've got.
 
RVO3 said:
I have broken 2 Billet input shafts and 1 intermediate. It is a fix for the most part, but shift pressures along with high horsepower and leverage of big tires does tear things apart no matter what you've got.



Hey RVO3 you going to run again this year at RMR?
 
RVO3's Sig said:
03' 2500 ATS BILLET EVERYTHING,COMMANDER,TRIPLE-LOK,HAISLEY FIRERINGS,A-1 STUDS,AURORA5000,NOS,WATER-METH/NITRO,PROPANE,ARCFLOW,180HP JUICE WITH A BADASS ATTITUDE,4:56 GEARS,FRENCHED EXHAUST,LOTSA LIFT WITH 37"ERS WRAPPING 22'S AND MUCH MORE THAN I CAN FIT IN THIS DESCRIPTION... ... . TRUST ME.



Sorry to highjack thread, But dang! Juice with turbo and N2O, H2O, and propane?



Tell me you knocking down 650+hp, right?



Maybe you could toss a few pics in your gallery, cause 37's on 22's gotta look nice
 
Charles thanks for the good advise... sounds like you have been there done that... that's just what I have been wanting to know but did not want to start WW3... . or should I say TW3
 
I wouldn't piece together a transmission again. Go with one brand and their certified installer cause they can offer you a package deal where they make money on the parts and labor isn't as much. Plus if their are any issues with the transmission they can work them out. I used Goerend Bros. triple disk, the first one was too 'tight' so I had to pay the shop another $500 to swap it. Dave Goerend was great to work with shipped a new converter with different stator for free. He did what I told him with the first one so it was my prob. He said if I was near him (Iowa) he'd do the labor for free. I'm at 4000 feet, and my advice don't get it too 'tight' at elevation. Mine did run COMPLETELY different at see level, but at home I enjoy the higher stall of the 'looser' one. Beleive me too 'tight' and that thing will just sit there at a light when it turns green. If you want tight, get a commander to lock it up at 15mph, then you can turn it off and have some slippage to build boost for towing. I think ATS has the right idea. Also do the billet 3rd gear drum from DTT that hold more clutch packs. My stock 3rd gear drum was toast.
 
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