CB/Ham install ideas

[CrewCabDiesel]

Since the 1970s I have had some form of a Cobra Classic CB in my cars and trucks. I got the great idea of upgrading to a Ham/CB and bought a Stryker 955HPC 10/12 meter radio (clip a jumper wire and get 11 Meter/CB bands).
Problem is I want to see the display safely while driving and the Stryker also needs a little more room as well. I currently have the Cobra mounted of the drivers side of my cup holder (6 speed/4x4) and can work the Cobra by feel. Any ideas how to mount the Strkyer? I did have more room when the truck was an automatic
Thanks Kyle

 

[Topzide]

@CrewCabDiesel, Post a pic. That way we can see what you have and what we can come up with. I have an Apollo 2 and Radoiddty DB-25 in my 2014. Have then stacked on a custom bracket just beside my right leg. Can see and operate without issue. The CB has saved my butt a many a time about accidents and delays!

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

View attachment 141207

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

 

[BigPapa]

Maybe not an option for your truck, but I modified the overhead "console" in my '95 for an overhead mount.

 

[Topzide]

Can't you just put in place of your Cobra? You'll be able to cover all the 10/12 channels and the 11 after the wire change. The Stryker will do the same and more than your Cobra. I've got an old Uniden PC-76 that the Apollo 2 replaced.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

the stryker is both wider and longer and I have to keep the rear cooling fins open to air. Overhead not an option, I use the homelink for my gates and of course trip computer. Considering building mount for the right is of the cup holder. I really was trying to avoid reinventing the wheel.

 

[Topzide]

I built a cup holder to go over the "rubber mat try", for when the center console is up and my buddy is riding along. The "new" cup holder has a space for me, the wife , and of course the dog! And he knows which one is his! I was thinking that you could twist the mount for the new one, were the display would be more direct to your vision. I get a picture of mine just to give you some ideas of what others have done.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Sounds nice I would like to see photos, might be able to make it work. My truck is 10 years older and a manual 6 speed, not much room left so anything make it fit. If I was still living in West Michigan I just put it on top of the dash, in Florida it would melt.

 

[slowmover]

Model I’m using for my NV56 truck. Epoxy a board slipped thru dome light opening.

Thru same access install a LAIRD NMO34b with WD640b whip and Springb.

FT240-31 ferrite wrapped eleven times with tight radius coax as RF/CMC choke at feedpoint.

Antenna location beats all others. Can be removed and capped. Lasts a decade or longer. Tall enough to perform (a CWB27 Laird if you find one on eBay).

12V power (fused) down A-pillar and out door opening for AM/FM antenna thru fender to BATT. Dodge recommends NEG to that side fender attachment, not batt; unfused. I’d run at least 10-AWG (marine-grade).

DRX-901 speaker under drivers seat firing into footwell. (Snake audio to drivers side B-pillar). Internal speaker is junk, and truck stop speakers not far behind. It isn’t the words that matter . . . it's how they’re said and what that portends

Stryker 65 or latest 75 microphone.

On back-side of radio, second filter:
https://myantennas.com/wp/product/cmc-130s-3k/

Most noise in mobile is via coax. Treat both ends.

If that 955 isn’t V.2, it’s best to get one that is (or the clone that’s the latest ANYTONE “short case” V.2 AT-5555N2) as integrated NRC has so changed 11-Meter the past year that without this type of DSP filtration, older radios are simply obsolete.

“Power” to get heard is what’s not needed (past 50W or so with above antenna + location) its clarity. Hear what others cannot, and get heard via same. I cannot emphasize this enough.

The quality of the installation is what matters most. The systems into which the radio is just a component. Antenna design plus mount location and noise treatment outstrips all else. Clean 12V is second. The radio (assuming NRC) is last.

The Amateur Radio Installation Bible
www.k0bg.com

The radio rigs I hear and converse the farthest are of this model. It ain’t Fat Fred and a 600W linear with a 108” chained to the bumper. Or (laugh) the one with the toolbox antenna. It’s Grannie Gertie in a minivan doing OVERSIZED pilot car duty with an export radio and permanent roof-center antenna.

1-2/miles of warning on a high volume road ain’t enough distance to avoid problems. Needs 3-5/miles on average or better to avoid entanglement. Huge pile-ups are now the norm. Daily. It’s nothing uncommon for me to hear of problems 15-20/miles out from two men discussing what one left behind him ten miles farther back.

NRC changed the game. It’s easier to listen all day, and now the radio can adequately filter what it receives (assuming no antenna compromise). It’s also far easier to deal with atmospheric Skip during this solar cycle.

.

 

[slowmover]

Is what I’m using in the big truck. AT-5555N2. Another NRC radio for the CTD as funds allow. This radio has a far more useful meter for helping determine whether what I’m hearing is nearing or receding or on a different road, not to mention being able to tell Skip from local.

About $300 (or get clone RadiOddity QT60).

Some set & forget menu-settings. Then what’s needed on-road run from panel. Stock mic is best.

With some changes, same internals as 955.

I’ve been running DSP over ten years. As a result I regularly converse with those at a distance the ones around me can’t hear despite their attempts at having, “a good radio rig”.

A final step up — but no longer low-key “invisible” — would be this or equivalent (SIRIO 5000 on a BREEDLOVE mount) as I run on the CTD. 5’ tall is a minimum, and the right 7’ doesn’t lose anything to taller. Use a fold-over or quick-disconnect. Neither type ever leaks and is a true vehicle upgrade.

A high quality install (with accessories noted) will double the radio price. You’ll not regret one penny.

Those without this experience despite 30-years of using a radio have no idea of what’s possible. Irrelevant opinions, as High Performance is now an easily-obtained reality. The way through is clarity. The game-changer.

SHTF it may be too late to get what’s wanted. And todays yahoos crowding AM-19 given a needed dose of medicine for interfering with travelers and family men on the road will make things right that, today, discourage every soy boy from active use.

.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

All I can say is WOW!
My 955 Stryker is a V2, I have already installed a Wilson 5000 roof mount above the 3rd brake light, had my K40 there for over 10 years and seemed to work well with my Cobra. I did have the ground run to the battery with 12 gauge marine wire. I will upgrade to 10 gauge copper tined marine wire. Got some major cleaning of my extra wiring, have a lot of other stuff on board, 1/2hp air compressor/air bag controls, winch, Strobes I used when I was a volunteer Fire Fighter (removing those).
the filters you recommended will come later
thank you for the links.
Kyle

 

[Topzide]

Here's the setup that I did in mine. External speakers on custom bracket on drivers seat , using the headrest posts.

From the thread; https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/cb-and-ham-radios.274246/#post-2720956

This weekends project to make hearing radios better and not disrupt the passengers! 1/4 x 1.5" aluminum flat bar with thread bolt holes for the speaker mounts. Used rubber bushings to keep from rattling on the headrest posts. Works great!

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Topzide , Sep 17, 2023 Report
#8 − Quote Reply

 

[slowmover]

All I can say is WOW!
My 955 Stryker is a V2, I have already installed a Wilson 5000 roof mount above the 3rd brake light, had my K40 there for over 10 years and seemed to work well with my Cobra. I did have the ground run to the battery with 12 gauge marine wire. I will upgrade to 10 gauge copper tined marine wire. Got some major cleaning of my extra wiring, have a lot of other stuff on board, 1/2hp air compressor/air bag controls, winch, Strobes I used when I was a volunteer Fire Fighter (removing those).
the filters you recommended will come later
thank you for the links.
Kyle

20’ circuit length of 10-AWG at 10A should meet 3% rule (.5V drop at DK).

Dodge says run ground to fender where Neg is also connected, not direct to BATT. Fuse POS, not Neg.

I use a BUSSMAN MBRP fuse (no splices in POS cable).

Ck noise coming across 12V (coax disconnected).
Turn radio volume up, engine idle up. Wipers, turn signals etc. Go for a short drive. HVAC workout.

May need to replace any LED lamps.
Any 12V chargers. (Better, exist).

KENWOOD KLF-2 https://www.pciraceradios.com/products/klf-2-kenwood-line-filter near radio if persistent.

It’s easy enough to get 12V noise “fixed”.
Coax is another story.

.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Here is what I came up with.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

View attachment 141280 View attachment 141279

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

 

[Blakers]

Interesting installations! I wanted to mount my Cobra ever since I bought my 2003 new, but could never figure out a good place to put it. Oh the good old days of steel dashes were so easy.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

What about the 3rd Gen CB mounts from Geno's?

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/wd-cb-0309/accessories-interior