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Chain up?

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Having owned many 4X4's, but no dually, I have a question regarding chain up. I have never had to chain up any 4X4 in the past, but if the need does arise with a dually how are the rears chained up? Only the outside or is it proper to chain up both wheels per side.



Also, thanks for the responses to my question regarding the transmission. Have not yet decided what this truck will haul, considering everything from a camper to a 5th wheel. Will approach the transmission issue when that is decided.



Walt
 
Walt

chain up of a duelly is a very good question, I guess there are two different kinds of chain up to consider.



If you need to chain up for say icy roads or a minimual amount of snow than just a single will be just fine.



If there are 4" or more of snow a single set of chains may actually hurt you so you need to do the duel chains, Yes with alot of snow and a single set on your drivers what happens is that the outside being chained up will simply spin the snow out from under it and that leaves the inner tire with no chain on it ontop of the snow carrying all the load and no traction. I have spent many many times in a semi double trailered unit ( that we called a train) out in the blue forrest deserts of Wyoming in the winter time, I used to have to chain up 3 times per shift to go out there and pick up condensate from wells, anyway trust me on this one about the chains, if I had a doller for every time I put chains on a semi than I would prolly have a grand right now.



cheers, Kevin
 
You can do it either way with different results, it is exremely messy to run a two wheel (3 rail) chain but it gives you a consistant pressure on your wheel studs. Single wheel chains are easier to put on and the bite pressure is increased because of more weight directly on the chain cross bars. If you have to chain up in certain areas you may have no choice, they will specify what is required as per axle and wheels. Generally on the pickup if all one needs is a bit of bite get a set of singles made with V-Bar crosslinks connected to every second side rail link and some weight in the truck. This combination is the most economical, easy to put on and takes up less storage space. Set up like this you will be amazed where the truck will go with less vibration driving and will bite well on hard or soft ice even pulling moderate drag loads. Three rail chains are messy simply because there is no way other than crawling under the truck to hook them up, usually are totaly tangled when you need them and takes a little more experience to get them on correctly. Hope this helps you out. PK
 
Man, I love the quick responses. TDR is a great site. Thanks Kevin and PK for the info. At least for this winter all I will probably be pulling is my sleds. For the most part the roads I travel to the snowmobiling areas are fairly regularly plowed but you have to be prepared for that heavy snowstorm that piles it up on the surface till the plowman gets there.



Walt
 
Originally posted by JWhitcomb

So what would be the pro and con of chaining the front wheels on a 4X4?



This is a tricky one, chaining up the front only has its advantages because it is easier and more controlable to pull a truck than push it , up in the mountains with front chains only it is amazing how good the rig will handly compared to chaining just the back.



Now for the downfall of chaining just the front, it puts extra duty on the front drive train, Now I cant vouch for the integrity of the Dodge but I can tell you that I could replace the spiders on my Ferd 250 with my eyes closed and I did always keep a set on hand, keep in mind that when I chain up it was all 4 and I had extra heavy duty hand made semi chains for the back and just heavy ones for the front and I still had problems, I think that all started when I bought the Ferd :{ , lesson learned and here I am .



I may also add that for the 2x4 guys that simply need just a bit extra on the highways only that in my semi days that the cable chains were great FOR HIGHWAY USE ONLY. If you do buy cable chains buy the best ones you can find,

Interstate travel requiring chains to get over a pass or the likes is horrible, no chains will make it long on dry or packed roads, keep that in mind.



I have sean chains out there that have a new concept for the cross links, they have a special end that hooks up to the side chain that allows the cross links to rotate, these chains are wonderful and easily rebuilt with common tools we all have , maybe someone knows the name of these chains and will post the website.



cheers, Kevvin
 
I have chained more times than I care to say on a 4x4. I have never seen a situation where you were not better off placing chains on the front. Good/better braking for down hill and better pulling up hill--and, better steering control.
 
I hope I don't have to chain this winter, this is my first 4WD. My first and only need for 4WD (except pulling my boat up icy ramps) was last winter. Two feet of fresh snow, 4800# camper and 24 miles of steep unplowed mountain road. My truck did well and I was very happy with the experiance. Wife was a near basket case at first. By the way, those cable chains, I80 is littered with them in the winter. I think it is all the flatlanders (like me) that run them on bare pavement.
 
Walt I obviously left 1 paragraph out about chaining up and of course the issue has arisen the front wheel chain up. Wisely stated by some the others is the increased stearability and added traction chaining the front however lets interject some logic here. First unless you doubled up your crosslinks like I previously told you the increased vibration and torque on your front diff could wipe it out. Secondly the rearend and driveshaft are a lot stronger than the front, third if you are chaining up lets be serious we are not at the most desirable place in our trip. If you have family along Safety is #1 priority not did we make it and I will leave you with a little scenario. I hauled lots of logs and equipment in and out of the bush therefore- you have chained up all 6 tires to MAKE it and you bust the front diff or T-case with the whole family along now there is either no steering or power to the wheels at all = risk factor???? Now lets approach this from another angle, Knowing road IS better ahead chain rear axle to make it but almost to the top/end of crap you break the rear diff, driveshaft or U joint. Most likely option at this point to get home safely - leave T case locked 4Hi drop rear driveshaft or drive axles if need be and drive home with functional steerable front diff in one piece with family safe and sound in a warm place. Old truck drivers with extensive winter experience should know this by locking power divider and chaing rear most axle that way if you were to break the rear diff again drop interaxle driveshaft and/or rear drive axles leave power divider locked and you will drive home, if in isolated areas this method of working out problems is preferable especially at -40. PK
 
I've lived in the north over forty years and have only chained up once, in California! Chains were required even though it was like most any winter day in Montana.
 
Thanks guys, for a lot of info. I have lived in the NW (raised in the North Central Cascades) and have driven on snow a lot. The chain up situation is usually in the passes. Type of snow, traffic and temp (and of course the law/regs) are also an important factor. I am old enough to remember driving back and forth to high school in my lil' Ford coupe with sawdust tires. We hardly ever had to chain up after the winter turned bitter cold and the snow was very dry. The wet snow is a bummer.



Walt
 
Illflem. . I have seen you say that before about CA, but you have got to remember that very few people in this state know how to drive in snow as opposed to the folks where you live. I like it that people have to chain here because it slows them down. Of course the state is over run with SUV's and those types that own them and think 4WD makes it OK to drive 70 in a blinding snowstorm. I80 at 5 PM on a Sunday in the winter is one of the scariest places I have ever driven.
 
I have always chained the front only, unless I'm in really slick mud. I have found that the u- joints in the front driveshaft don't appreciate the extra load but the control is worth it. Besides, all the weight is on the front anyways.
 
As I previously stated by putting your crosslinks every second link on the side rails you will signifigantly reduce vibration and wear on your ball joints and tires while chained up. I still don't agree with chaining front 1st as this is your backup to get home, take out the front diff and steering your cooked smoke the back diff you can pull rear driveshaft and axles and front will take you home-ex truck driver I HATE walking. PK
 
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