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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) change a Lift pump in less then 30 min!

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I know this applies to my 98. 5, don't know about the newer ones.



1-Unplug the fuel pump harness on top of the lift pump



2-remove the inlet fuel line rubber hose quick disconnect. There are 2 tabs you push in, and the line will pull off the pump fitting, while the 2 tabs will stay on the pump fitting. (easer said then done with one hand.



The next steps I found easyist with my Knee on the valve cover.



3-Remove the 10MM head bolt on top of liftpump that holds the fuel inlet in place. rotate this bracket on the fuel inlet tube up just a little.



4-Remove the 3 -1/2" nuts on top of the lift pump.



5-remove the Banjo bolt on the inlet of the fuel filter. This is the rear bolt, where the fuel line goes down to the outlet of the lift pump. This Banjo fitting needs a 17mm wrench unless you have Rays's bolts, then its a 19mm. Be sure you see where that bottom sealing washer goes from under this fitting.



6-Remove the lift pump by sliding it down and away from the motor, you may have to twist the bracket on the fuel inlet line just enough so it clears the top of pump bracket. Fish pump outlet line away from wire going into top of filter.



7-Pump is now out! change fuel lines over to new pump, install wire harness adaptor onto new pump if needed. Install new banjo bolt washers but do not tighten up the inlet and outlet fittings on the pump all the way yet. Position pump back onto block being sure to route fuel outlet pipe in correct location around wire going into fuel filter.



8-Using the fuel outlet pipe to hold fuel pump into location while you get one hand down into the darkness to put the 1/2' nuts back on. tighten these 1/2" nuts.



9-Put 10mm head bolt back into fuel inlet pipe bracket.



10-using 2 new sealing washers re-install banjo bolt through pump outlet pipe into filter and tighten (look up specs if needed)



11-Tighten banjo fittings on both inlet and outlet of pump, hook up wire and fuel line.



Pump is now Installed! Should take under 1/2 hour with just wrenches!



Priming.

This is best done with 2 people.



Have one person turn the key on, then "bump" the key torwards start which will start a cycle of the lift pump. While the pump is running loosen the outlet line on the fuel filter, yes it will make a mess, good luck trying to catch it with a rag. Once the lift pump picks up fuel, you can tell, it gets louder and slows down, (don't forget to tighten outlet banjo fitting on filter.



Once it has picked up fuel cycle the pump about 10 times by "bumping" the key to the start position. The pump should keep its prime and sould like it did in step above when fuel really started spraying everywhere. Then try to start truck!



(maybe you should spray the hose under hood to rince off all that fuel before starting it?)



I would not recomend trying to change the filter in the same opperation, if you do, you should fill the filter housing with diesel before trying to prime pump. The guy at Cummins said if you open the filter up to add fuel, the O ring will swell and never go back together, (yes, I had mine apart, and No it did not swell, but its only about a month old)



The problem I had was I had a test fuel pressure gauge installed, which has 3' of 3/8" line. As the lift pump would pick up fuel, the air in the 3/8" line would pressurize and act like an

'accumulator", as soon as the lift pump would stop, the air in the line would force the fuel, and air back into the liftpump loosing the prime.



Have Fun
 
Nice work Towpro. This will go nicely in the box of the spare lift pump. When I installed fuel pressure gauges and changed the fuel filter, I did not have to add fuel to the cannister. I only had to do the one "25 second" bump and then she started right up. If there is air in the lines doesn't it get pushed back to the fuel tank (assuming a good lft pump)?
 
30 minutes is too long...

I can change mine in about 5 minutes. Oh, did I tell you mine was mounted on the outer frame rail back by the tank. :p ;) :D
 
Re: 30 minutes is too long...

When I first mounted my High Performance? aftermarket pump, I mounted it on the outside of the frame rail, then vision's of burning Chevy trucks entered my head and I moved it to the inside of the frame rail. (not much protecting it on the outside if somebody "T" bones you) But as I posted earler the aftermarket pumps leaked out of the box so I ended up switching back to a new stock pump, on the block. I will probably move the stock pump back onto the frame, but first I got to come up with fittings (and the desire to move it)



Originally posted by Chipstien

I can change mine in about 5 minutes. Oh, did I tell you mine was mounted on the outer frame rail back by the tank. :p ;) :D
 
Cummins Part #'s

Hi All,

looks like it's time for me to get my hands oily. I just ordered a replacement lift pump for my truck since it was reading 10/5/3.



The part numbers I have seen on the board differ slightly. When I called Cummins Rocky Mountain, I checked with them to verify what's what.



3990082 - Is supposed to be a pump kit. They didn't have it in stock and didn't have a good description of what was in it either



3990105 - Replacement Lift Pump - $145. 95



4025182 - Wiring Harness Adapter - needed on the early 24 valve Dodge trucks to adapt to the new pump - $7. 48



3935171 - new washers that fit under the banjo bolt. 2 required. $. 86 each.



Hope this info helps you out !



--Phil
 
I have not compaired a 2000 to a 98-99 but I think the filter changed.



Originally posted by fj40charles

I found it easier to access the lift pump if you unbolt the fuel filter housing and let it dangle.



Charles
 
Gentlemen,



The removing the fuel filter housing is one of the best ideas I've heard... I just got back from the garage changing mine and I unbolted my fuel filter housing and zip tied it out of the way... direct access to the lift pump! Took me unflexible clumsy but only 45 minutes to replace the lift pump this way... did I mention I was clumsy?



Oh yeah, has anyone had the wonderful luck I had and had the studs work lose from the lift pump before the nuts that hold it to the brack give way? It happened to me... was simple though, just took some vicegrips and felt for the other end of the stud on the bottom of the bracket and attached them... . then screwed the nut off.



Oh yeah, I have a '01 3500
 
Re: 30 minutes is too long...

Originally posted by Chipstien

I can change mine in about 5 minutes. Oh, did I tell you mine was mounted on the outer frame rail back by the tank. :p ;) :D



Me too, much easier other than the fuel running down your arm when you undo the lines :D
 
Okay I've been a member of TDR since 2001. I have not posted much to it, but I have been following this fuel pump issue. I have one question, well two.



Where is it located on a 2000 3500?

And what does it look like?



OH... hey a picture of it would be cool. Ya know worth a thousand words. :D
 
Originally posted by AstroZombie

Okay I've been a member of TDR since 2001. I have not posted much to it, but I have been following this fuel pump issue. I have one question, well two.



Where is it located on a 2000 3500?

And what does it look like?



OH... hey a picture of it would be cool. Ya know worth a thousand words. :D



Here ya go.
 
Lift pump swap

I just changed my pump & drained/removed the filter housing... swapped the pump out & put all the lines back together, & the filter housing back on. . Changed the filter... Primed the housing with Lucas, & cracked the hose coming from my IP schrader at my pressure sending unit & bumped the starter about 6 times before I had a good mess... Tightened the fitting & she fired right up... Took me about an hour, but my sending unit is in a tough spot.



Now I have 18/14/10 & I feel much better which is certainly better than 10/6/2... & I bought a second pump & have it ready to swap in case I find myself with 5# again on the side of the road... I also have a kit on the way that will move the stock pump to the frame, near the tank... Some day I'll add oil to the squeak & buy the FASS... Just not ready to get off $600. yet... Although in the long run I know it's going to be a good investment...



What's involved with deleting the fill pipe tank screen?



I think the tank mod is going to accompany the FASS... BTW who sells the larger pick up tube?



Who knows what's involved with regulating pressure such that it would increase under load instead of bassackwards.



R/



Jim
 
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