Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Change out of torque converter question

[LarryWard]

Seems my transmission shop installed a heavy duty converter in its rebuild for me, but at first he and I thought it had a lower stall but after few days driving I am pretty convinced it is same old oem stall. And the manufacturer confirmed the model # is a heavier duty but not lower stall.



So I really expected lower stall and the company does not price them any different. Therefore my need is to discuss this with my shop rebuilder and I figure out a reasonable cost to get the right t. c. I have some confidence the company that furnished it will simply swap out for little or no cost based on a phone conversation with them. Its the labor that I will probably be saddled with.



Does the entire transmission have to come down for t. c. replacement or can it be moved back sufficiently? It is 4x4 so transfer case is involved.



Seems I have heard 300-400 for r/r transmission. Thanks for early comments. l

 

[Grinder1]

I had the same problem with a transmission shop some years back on a GM rig. Don't mess with trying to shortcut converter R/R. You can do damage to the front seal and pump if converter is not lined up properly. Best bet is to be there to inspect new upgraded converter (verify part #)and watch the install. A good trans R/R man should be able to do job in a couple of hours esp. since trans was just out (no frozen bolts). I don't know what the going shop rate is there but another 300-400 bucks seems a tad hi. When all is said and done let me know what converter did the trick and how you like it.

 

[bmoeller]

Was $400 at Goerends when they put in my trans. With 2 guys, the actually R&R was just under 4hrs. Had several other things done (seals and new cooler lines, resistor), it took ~5. 5-6hrs.

 

[LarryWard]

Lower stall converter or not??

I will withhold vendor/mfg at this time but my rebuilder quotes them as saying that unless I had increased power modifications to my '95 12 valve they just recommend the original factory stall speed(but vendor does want to please me). It is sold as an improved heavy duty rebuilt tc and at no extra cost can be had in what is described as "extreme low stall" on their web site, indicating it is 300-400 rpm lower stall than factory. I paid a little more to go for "heavy duty" and expected a lower stall speed as well but my rebuilder went along with their recommendations and installed oem stall "heavy duty" unit. He did Transgo upgrade kit and drilled out oil holes, etc, and Raybestos stuff, etc, so I think he gave me an honest job. It drives fine with a bit of harder 2-3 shift depending on acceleration. Light speedup tends to have some snap but little harder makes it smooth.



Basic question is why shouldn't one want a lower stall tc when doing a rebuild? Whether one has done only slight mods such as timing increase, gov. springs and some of the other inexpensive tweaks, doesn't it make sense for dropping the tc stall speed. I hear some of you saying it should help city mpg and I could use that. If I ever pull anything it isn't likely to be requiring great increases in hp. Like many of you city truckers it is more truck than we really "need" but I have come to like this machine and feel more comfort and safety in just taking trips with it.



I will count your votes for and against "lower" stall speed tc. Thanks much.

 

[DCreed]

search "stall speed" in comp forum.

 

[LarryWard]

Ok, the job is completed of exchanging the standard t. c. to what they termed the 300-400 lower stall speed and I chose to spend another 200 for the steel billet upgrade while doing the swap.



Juan, owner of Valley Transmission in Modesto charge nothing for the correction, so I feel pretty pleased over his excellent customer relations attitude.

The t. c. is from Sacramento from PDQ. Have not read anything about them on forum but hope it was a sound decision. Could have gone to their lower stall without upgrade cover and it would have be no more at all.



Since I have not driven another 12 valve with a Goerends, Suncoast, DTT, etc I have no way to compare but suspect they may outperform PDQ. Usually pay for what you get or try too.



Still see about 250 rpm drop at 45mph lockup even with light throttle.



Would like some input on what light throttle shift speeds and rpms are the norm. Had him move shifts down a little as it was under light throttle climbing up to just under 1700 for each shift which seemed higher than before rebuild. larry

 

[DCreed]

what rear gears are you running?

 

[LarryWard]

Rear gear is 354 and tires 265/75/16. May go to 285s on next set.

 

[DCreed]

my drive ratio is similar, but higher power. The engine/turbo like a 2200 stall but with my mods I like around 1800. The rpms keep the turbo spooled and egts cool. The only time it bothers me is at low speeds up hill, seems to gradually accelerate running 22-2400 rpms 1/2 throttle. Don't like to push it too hard. I've driven other trucks with lower stalls and like that better, but too low won't let the motor work it'll just lug/smoke.