Archived Changed Fuel Filter on 1997 12 Valve and No Start!!

[RopinFool]

My buddy changed the fuel filter on his 97 12-valve, but the housing back together, cracked the bleeder on top of the housing and pumped the primer until it spewed fuel, then attempted to start, by cranking for 20 to 30 seconds then stopping and trying again... did this 3 or 4 times. No start. We then cracked the injector lines and cranked again 3 or 4 times... . not getting any fuel out of the injector lines. Anybody have any idea what is going on??

Any help at all would be great.



Thanks in advance!!!

 

[RopinFool]

did some more research and found out that the fuel shutoff solenoid isn't picking up. When I manually pickup the solenoid the truck fires right up, but when we shutdown the solenoid closes and then won't pick-up on its own again. Any ideas what could be causing this? He is also having a problem where the starter just buzzes everonce in a while and doesn't engage to turn over.

 

[Bob4x4]

make sure the driver side battery terminals and all the small wires are clean and making good contact. If those items are good next check the relay that feeds the solenoid.



Bob

 

[ScottLewis]

2 circuits operate the solenoid. The following is from my '98 manual:



"FUEL SHUTDOWN SOLENOID TEST

NOTE: The fuel shutdown (shut-off) solenoid

and fuel shutdown solenoid relay are

not controlled by the powertrain control module

(PCM).

(1) With the ignition switch off, the solenoid shaft

should be down and the injection pump lever should

be in the shutdown position (no fuel supply to injection

pump).

(2) Turn the ignition switch to the CRANK (starter

engage) position and observe the solenoid shaft and

injection pump lever. The shaft should pull up (shaft

retracted into the solenoid) and the pump lever

should be in the run position (fuel being supplied to

injection pump).

(3) Release the ignition key from the CRANK to

the ON position. The shaft should remain in the up

position and the pump lever should remain in the

run position (fuel being supplied to injection pump).

If the solenoid shaft is not moving, refer to

the following:

(4) Disconnect the solenoid three-wire pigtail wire

harness from the main engine harness.

(5) If the solenoid shaft did not move up when the

ignition switch was in the CRANK position, check for

12 volts at the three-way connector. This will be the

circuit coming from the fuel shutdown solenoid relay.

Refer to Group 8W, for wire connector pin location

and circuit identification. If 12 volts is not present at

this circuit when the key is in the CRANK position,

check the fuel shutdown solenoid relay. Refer to

Relay Test—Fuel Heater/Fuel Shutdown Solenoid in

this section of the group. Also check the wiring

between the relay and the solenoid.

(6) If the solenoid shaft moves up when the ignition

switch is in the CRANK position, but moves

down when the key is released from the CRANK to

the ON position, check the circuit coming from the

ignition switch for 12 volts. Refer to Group 8W, for

wire connector pin location and circuit identification.

(7) If the shutdown solenoid is being replaced, its

shaft length must be adjusted. Refer to Fuel Shutdown

Solenoid Removal/Installation for procedures. "



Dan

 

[Joe G.]

Check the relay. It's on the firewall close to the master cylinder. You may have managed to disconnect it when you changed the fuel filter.

 

[Flinty]

Dan gets a gold star for all that typing. Guys like you, Dan, make this site worth it's weight in gold!

 

[ScottLewis]

I cheated. It's called cut, paste and edit.





Dan

 

[RopinFool]

Thanks a ton guys!!! you are awesome... apparently when the filter was changed the relay got bumped. I pulled the relay, cleaned it up and put it back together and now it runs like a champ!



Now to get his starter fixed up... apparently he is having contact issues... time to contact LarryB!

 

[MRector]

Diito on the gold star, that is why I subscribe!! Thanks



Mikey