Changed my rear differential oil and...

[Kirwin]

Now I really don't understand???

bombero, What are you trying to say? That we shouldn't change our differential oil at the 15K interval? I never said that I thought that the oil had lost any of its lubricating properties. I was more concerned with the impurities and carmel color. For those of us that tow and tow often and tow heavy (compard to our trucks tow ratings), we meet the schedule B requirments. Therefore we need to change the differeential oil at Dodge's recommend interval or face the posibility of becoming "our own warranty station". This website is the best I know of for sharing ideas and attempting to better understand the whys and hows of the Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel. As far as what cover we have on our differential, that is a matter of personal preference. I like the idea of being able to drain the lube without removing the cover. I like the cover on the 97 and thats why I bought one for the 03. I will keep my truck as long as I want. That's why I want to take the route that the rest of the truck will not last as long as the CTD unless I take good care of it. Hence I am always interested when I find out that the lubricant exibits qualities that I dont expect during what I consider routine maintenance. Hence my post on the TDR. Ken Irwin.

 

[MDietrich]

This is what I dont like about this site. A bunch of guy that have more money than sense. How long are you going to keep your truck, with that pretty cover on it? I dont like supporting the oil companies so I will follow DC maintenance schedule. When it first came out, synthetic gear lub was advertised to last forever. Now the stuff DC uses only last 5-15 K miles?? You do what you want but anyone else reading these post should do some other research

A part that makes doing a job easier means that the job will get done more often. If it gets done more often, the part will benifit and last longer. If it lasts longer, that's money saved in the long run. Same principal as buying a diesel motor, more money up front but it will last longer.



I would like to have a Mag Hytec cover and I think my rig would benifit from the extra fluid capacity with the camper I haul. However, I can't justify one yet so I will change my fluids more often. I have the time and patiece to do it.



As far as research is concerned, I used this site to find the fluid capacities, found out I could reuse the gaskets, and what others used for a gauge to test for full. In the process of changing the rear, I found that I purchased the wrong fluid. Posted the problem on the TDR and recieved several replies as what to do. Used that information to draw my own conclusion.



I changed mine at 20 some thousand miles and found the same thing Kirwin did. So I'll be changing mine more often and keeping the oil companies in buisness. As quoted more than once "Oil is cheaper than parts".



MD

 

[Cajun4x4]

Question for the ones that are using Mopar fluid in there differentials. Is the fluid only availiable from the dealers? I looked at Amsoil and they seem to only sell that fluid through the Amsoil website only. I plan on chaning mine at 5k when I do my first engine oil change.

 

[InThinAir]

I changed mine at 7500 miles in the rear. This was because the lube in the 01 looked terrible at 15k for the first change. So I knew that my first change was overdue. The lube in the 03 looked terrible at 7500! I changed the 01 again at 30k which it looked fine. So now I change it every 30k.



This issue is the break in. I would say that 15k is the absolute limit that I would ever run a new Diff, but from the 3 dodges that I have owned I would recomment planning on changing at 5k and then going 15-20k after that for towing and 30k for not towing.



That is my recommendation, and my post! And I guess that I have more money then sense because I have always been told that I have absolutely zero sense. So the bar isn't set very high.



oh and Amsoil is easy to get than you think, just ask around and you will find it. My NAPA actually sells it. But also the Motorcycle shops around here have it too, and can get you whatever you want.



---Doug

 

[Kirwin]

Dealer Lubricants

Cajun4X4. This is a closely gaurded secret. The Dodge dealers know that if we find it somwhere else we won't buy it from them as they want too much $. Some on here have posted that these lubricants are specially made for this application. I doubt it. My dad worked in a plant that made yogurt. They made a lot of yogurt. One day the machine made Sealtest yogurt the next day the machine made Bryers yogurt the next Kraft yogurt if you know what I mean. This oil is made by somebody and packaged for Dodge. I'm sure if you do a search as I did you will find the answer to your question. Now the question becomes: how's your relationship with the Service Manager, or parts department at your local Dodge dealer, and will using the factory lubricants that cost a little more buy you a covered waranty repair on a questionable failure after the waranty period is over do to the dealers management looking favorably on you as a "good customer". All the above IMHO. Ken Irwin

 

[rbattelle]

I have about 32k on my truck. Changed axle fluids at 15k and 30k as recommended. I used Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 both times (full synthetic, GL-5 rating).



The first change the old fluid was quite gray. The second change the oil was also gray, though not so much as at the first change. I have had no trouble with either axle.



I want a Mag-Hytec cover, but I have 1 reservation about getting one. Is it possible that the factory covers are made in such a way as to facilitate fluid "climbing" up the ring gear when the vehicle is in motion? This would be accomplished by a cover closely molded to the contour of the ring gear. A Mag-Hytec, although it has extra capacity, would not be capable of providing this "climbing fluid" feature.

 

[Kirwin]

Fluid climbing

Rbattelle, The fluid level in the differential at the high mark on the Mag-Hytec dipstick is supposed to be just touching the bottom of the axles shafts. If you consider that the pinnion is turning around 1800 RPM and the ring gear is turning at like 500 RPM, there is no area inside the gear case that is not in a fluid bath when the vehicle is moving at any speed. The factory cover is a closer fit yes but I don't think that will affect the lubrication properties in the differential. Just my . 02 Ken Irwin

 

[WBragg]

Oooops

I got 90K on my truck, havent changed any diff' fluids, getting a funny squeely/chirpy noise in foward and reverse. The noise dissapears at 35 MPH and up - even with the windows down :-laf Am I in trouble now. Haul a bobcat almost everywhere I go cause I lost the hitch key. (OK that last part is a bit of a stretch )

 

[rbattelle]

I got 90K on my truck, havent changed any diff' fluids, getting a funny squeely/chirpy noise in foward and reverse. The noise dissapears at 35 MPH and up - even with the windows down :-laf Am I in trouble now. Haul a bobcat almost everywhere I go cause I lost the hitch key. (OK that last part is a bit of a stretch )

Wow. I'd change it right away if I were you.



On Edit: on second thought, save the money you would spend on the fluid for new front and rear axles. I can't imagine either is in very good shape after 90k miles of towing with the factory fluid.

 

[mathiowetz]

Normal Rear Diff temps

Paint was peeling on old diff cover from heat. Figured it was from pulling my 13,000 lb f/w through triple digit heat. I decided to install a mag hytec cover, when I took empty truck for a 20 mile warm up drive pan was hot to the touch, thought this was a little warm for running empty. Any one know if this is considered normal, or do I have symptems for a future problem?

 

[mathiowetz]

I just installed my mag-hytec this weekend. When I took off original cover I set it inside the mag hytec pan with the fill plug out and made a mark on the new cover thru the bottom edge of the fill plug of the old cover. The mark made on the mag hytec cover was just below the small plug in the middle of the cover. This means that the original oil level was lower than the small plug in the mag hytec cover and well below the marks on the dip stick.

 

[Bertram65]

I thought that might be the case with the Mag, how much did it hold to fill it to where it was at the factory cover level?

 

[Moterhead]

I've looked at the charts that show the recommended 15,000 change interval. I also read the Owner's Manual. Page 350, second column, midway down, subject "Drain and Refill". "Vehicles operated in normal service do not have regularly scheduled oil changes. If fluid has become contaminated with water or subjected to severe service, follow the recommended change intervals in Maintenance Schedule "B" in section 8 of this manual". Since I rarely tow and when I do it's a fairly light motorcycle trailer, I haven't changed mine. 21,000 on the clock.



What's "Severe Service"? A matter of opinion? Everyone is entitled to one of those.

 

[mathiowetz]

I think it took about 5. 5 quarts, I filled mine to the top line of the dip stick like instructions suggest with 8 quarts.

 

[OHale]

FWIW I changed my rear diff oil at ~5600 miles. The oil was opaque and there was a gray film of metal dust on the cover. There was also filing sludge on the plug magnet.



I remember changing my '95 rear diff oil and found much the same thing, actually more metal in that pumpkin. Subsequent changes became much cleaner until I could change the rear diff every 12-15k and have relatively clean oil.



It is much easier to change the rear diff oil on these trucks (no gasket scraping and re-application, no anti-slip additive. ) IMHO I think it is good insurance to make an early oil change and then revert at some point to the normal schedule.

 

[Bertram65]

I think it took about 5. 5 quarts, I filled mine to the top line of the dip stick like instructions suggest with 8 quarts.

So the Mag took 5. 5 quarts to fill to the same level as the factory cover and then you added an additional 2. 5 quarts? I would think that would make the level too high in the diff, not sure what harm it will do though.

 

[hasselbach]

I'd be concerned about windage of the rear end fluid and leaking out of the axle seals if you raise the fluid too much in the rear end.

 

[mberry]

FWIW I changed my rear diff oil at ~5600 miles. The oil was opaque and there was a gray film of metal dust on the cover. There was also filing sludge on the plug magnet.



I remember changing my '95 rear diff oil and found much the same thing, actually more metal in that pumpkin. Subsequent changes became much cleaner until I could change the rear diff every 12-15k and have relatively clean oil.



It is much easier to change the rear diff oil on these trucks (no gasket scraping and re-application, no anti-slip additive. ) IMHO I think it is good insurance to make an early oil change and then revert at some point to the normal schedule.

Changed mine last weekend. 2035 miles on the truck and had exactly the same film and sludge. I had a couple of larger filings in the rear that were on the magnet. It's so easy to change on this truck I have no excuse for not doing it more regularly.

 

[CGragg]

Wonder how many people would even buy this truck if they knew they had to change the rearend diff. at 15000k, not to mention 5000 or 2000k. Just a thought, no ill will intended.

 

[mathiowetz]

What do you mean by (windage of the rear end fluid)???