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changing caliper

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Upper ball joints on 2WD

Brake Light - ABS Light

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Iam getting ready put a new caliper on the left rear.

Checking the manual it says to put a prop rod on the brake pedal to keep pressure on the system. When I remove the brake line won't the fluid drain out causing a big mess?
 
I don't know why your changing one caliper but assume your into at least 1 axle of a brake job... .

Here is my suggestion... open the line/bleeder and let the fluid run out into a container for disposal. . I personally would use a turkey baster to remove all the old fluid from the master and replace it with fresh... I'd attach the new caliper and finish what ever started the changing of this caliper...

I personally like it use a mighty vac but a second person can help you bleed the brakes as well... I always bleed all lines starting with the longest to the shortest and do this until I get clean brake fluid at each wheel... with the mighty vac its usually 8-12 oz per wheel, which means your going to use 2 qts of brake fluid...

I never compress a piston and push the brake fluid back to the ABS and Master Cyl... If I have a caliper off and intend to reinstall it with with fresh pads I open the bleeder and compress the piston with a set of vice grips that are designed like a c-clamp. . For each wheel that is open I compress the piston and leave the vice grip in place, and continue with the other side, or the other 3 wheels...

Remember that brake fluid is hydroscopic and will absorb water. . with the water in the fluid it can boil and cause problems as well as support rust on the metal parts. .

I always us a little never seize on all metal to metal contact points upon re-assembly and slide points.

I don't know where you are in this project so will leave it here with the thought that either you will ask more questions or others will give their insight...

To answer you question... I've never personally used a prop rod as suggested, I've owned as many as 5 if these trucks at one time in a small fleet and have been doing this for 40+ years...

Hope this helps...
 
Thank for the info. I had a brake dragging. I opened the breeder and using a c-clamp I could compress one of the pistons but not the other. Since the rotor is badly scored I decided to replace everything. Caliper, rotor and pads left and right rear. I'll also be changing the fluid.
 
By pushing down slightly on the pedal, you block off the line coming out of the reservoir and prevent it from draining when you open the connection at the caliper. This works really good and you'll have a lot less fluid loss and bleeding to do if you follow those directions. It's not a big deal if you don't but it makes the job go quicker and easier.
 
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