Changing clutch for a friend

[Steve Campbell]

Does anyone have a list of things to watch or inspect closely so as not to do him more harm than good? He ordered in the South Bend. Or a link to a good thread would be appreciated.

 

[MikeR]

Just don't let the input shaft support the trans weight when your trying to align and shove the trans back in. It could bend the input shaft.

 

[fj40charles]

Also, I heard you need to ground the flywheel.



Charles

 

[Todd T]

if he has four wheel drive pull the transfer case off first. it has six studed bolts you will remove the nuts from. it slides right off. it weighs about 50lbs so be ready when it comes down. tape over the input of it before taking it down. some fluid will run out when you remove the drive shaft but not alot. once you remove it dont tip it unless you have taped the end shut good.



the cross member is the next thing that is hard. you have to use a sledge and hammer it out backwards before it can drop down. or sometimes you may have to use a porta power to spread the frame out a littlebit.



remove the slave cylinder. if the end falls off dont worry just stick it back in or save it for the re-install. DO NOT push on the clutch pedal with it removed. you'll blow the shaft out along with the fluid and will need to refill it and bleed it.



coming out put the transmission in neutral then pull the shifter. youll need to support the front of the motor before removing the transmission of you will find yourself jacking it up before you can re-install the transmission.



pull the gear box off off the bell housing (4 bolts) first then take the bell housing down. its a lot easier to get to the bolts this way.



the flywheel weighs about 57lbs so be ready with it too. DONT DROP IT. you'll break the teeth off it. it has a small seat it sits on but dont trust it and let go without any bolts in it.







putting it back together just reverse what you did. and make sure to torque everything and loctite it.

 

[Steve Campbell]

Thanks for the "super Service"!!!

 

[rubberneck]

If you dont have a porta power, a bottle jack and 4x4 will work to spread the frame to get the cross member out. Also make sure the surface of the flywheel is spotless before putting the new clutch in. I use lacquer thinner in a spray bottle then air it off. Also make sure the splines of the input shaft have some lube on them, but not too much, you dont want any flinging out on to the clutch surface. Make sure to tell him not to get on it too hard for the first couple hundred miles, give it a chance to seat. Do not be surprised if it slips a little when new even under moderate loads. this will end after the first couple hundred miles.

 

[Briar Hopper]

If it's a six-speed, be advised that the transmission gear case does not separate from the bell housing, like the five speed does. The bell housing forms an integral front cover for the transmission.

 

[Steve Campbell]

It is a six speed

Oo. My anxiety level has gone down considerably. Thanks again for the cyber-help

 

[Todd T]

Six Speed

OH, them dudes are heavy too!!

 

[Steve Campbell]

Todd, I have a transmission jack left over from my OTR trucking days. This "baby" can't weigh what an RTO12513 used to weigh. I am starting tomorrow PM. I will let you know how it works out.

 

[FFutch]

A good jack is a must...

Steve,it sounds like You have the right jack. Just make sure you center it up good on the trans. /t. c. I pulled my 5spd. and t. c. as one unit with a good jack. Have fun,if you've done many O. T. R. clutch jobs like I have,it will be gravy compared to them . Doug

 

[Big Don]

Guys,

Big Don here. Received my clutches today from Southbend. Got a 13" Con-OFE with redrilled flywheel for my 99 cab and chassis 4x4 5speed and a Con-OFE for the 00 3/4 ton 4x4 6 speed. Tonight I got everything on the 1 ton ready to remove the transmission. I removed the rear driveshaft and t case and left the front drive shaft bolted to the t case. Tomorrow I will get in the cab and pull the shifter then back inderneath for the cross member then pull the transmission. I have a leaking t case seal and their was some oil at the bell housing maybe a rear main leak??? Truck only has 24,000 miles on it!!!! You think it is best to remove the transmission from the bell housing first???? then remove bell housing??

As soon as this one is finished it is on to my '00 3/4 quad cab with the 6 speed. I hope to complete both trucks this weekend.



later

Don Peters

 

[MikeR]

Don,

I whould leave the transfer case and the bellhousing bolted to the trans and take it out as one unit... way easier.

 

[Todd T]

Sorry mikeR, i totaly disagree with that.



even with a transmission jack and lift the dealers dont take it out as a whole. its way too heavy and long.



+ its easier to align the transmission back into the clutch when you can get behind it to spot it and also see it going in the hole from underneath and the sides. if you leave the bell housing on you cant see I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER.



Don Make it easier on yourself. pull the Tcase, pull the transmission and then pull the bell housing. I've done it twice now on mine. i can do the whole job in 6 hours by myself.

 

[Briar Hopper]

Something to take note of: The big rig service shops, at least the good ones, always replace the rear main seal in the engine EVERY time they remove or drop a transmission, for whatever reason.

Given the way the Cummins likes to leak there, it's a good idea to go ahead and do that even if it doesn't look like it needs it. IT WILL NEED IT LATER, guaranteed!

Second reminder: Do not try to detach the bell housing from the transmission on the six-speed. It forms the front cover of the transmission.

 

[Big Don]

Guys,



Getting ready to head to the shop. Gotta pull the shifter and then the crossmember. I already have the t case seperated. I am not looking at doing it in a lightening pace, just good clean work. Want it right the first time. I agree with replacing the rear main. I do it on every tractor that we install a clutch in. I split tractors all the time and put in clutches, just never done a truck before. My 99 is a little damp at the engine/bell housing interface, but it only has 24,000 miles. I will replace the seal if needed. Already have a new t case/rear drive shaft seal ready for installation as mine has been leaking for @ 10 months now.



later

Don

 

[Steve Campbell]

Briar-your right

I had forgotten that we also used to change the rear main everytime. 15 years ago it used to cost $62. 00 for the seal, and you weren't suppose, to touch the sealing surface with your fingers.

 

[Steve Campbell]

Todd T you were also right

It did take just under 6 hours. Thanks for all of the info.

 

[Big Don]

Guys,



Got the Southbend installed in my 99 1 ton and test drove it. If no one told you the clutch had been replaced you'd never know it by driving. Performs flawlessly. Great product. Even on initial drive it did not slip. It should hold the power fine.

As soon as I got back from that test drive I brought the '00 3/4 ton in for breakdown. I now have it down (six speed is alot bigger than the five speed). I am having the flywheel surfaced tomorrow and should have it back on the road monday evening. I hope it holds as good as the one in the 1 ton.

So far I'd have to say that if you're wanting/needing a great clutch, call southbend and speak with Peter.



thanks

Don