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Changing Coolant, How important is it?

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So I have been meaning to flush the antifreeze and refill with the good Fleetguard stuff, but I have not had the time.



How important is it to do, how often should it be done?



I know the Powerstrokes had some electrolisis issues with old coolant, do we have those concerns?
 
It is very important, the additives break down after a while and it will turn corrosive and you will end up with a truck engine and radiator full of red liquid from the rust/corrosion. The recommended interval for change is in the owners manual. bg
 
Delo EC-1 has a coolant (RED) that can be run 6 years or 600,000 mi. You ad an additive package at 3 years and run it the remaining three. GOOD stuff. I ran it in my old second gen and I run it in my diesel Mercedes.
DON'T run DEXCOOL (ORANGE) that stuff plugs up systems.
 
The guy at Cummins just told me I don't need the expensive stuff with the inhibitors in it because it's not a sleeved engine.



So if I don't need it, is it still worth using? Why can't you just use Prestone?
 
They say Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the OEM stuff in Mercedes and Dodge, and Cummins.

Anyone using it? Haven't looked for it in any store yet.



That's what I use (Zerex G-05). Bought mine at AutoZone for about $1 more than Prestone. NAPA has it also. Not sure about other stores.



Gary
 
yeah, a lot of us 3gen daily grocery getting drivers are nearing 100K. I've just passed it my self at 102K. but it still has been to cold to wanna mess with a the radiator.

Tips? Tricks? How many gallons should we buy? how many 5 gallon pales will I need to catch all the stuff in the motor.

If I flush with straight water, run it around hte block a few times to warm it up and flush again, how much will come out vs stay in the block so I can avoid getting the 50/50 mix stuff. Is there an easy to reach spot to drain just about all the fluid outa the block and heater core?

All that would be awesome to know.

anything different then a typical gasser to "burp" the system?
 
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Delo EC-1 has a coolant (RED) that can be run 6 years or 600,000 mi. You ad an additive package at 3 years and run it the remaining three. GOOD stuff. I ran it in my old second gen and I run it in my diesel Mercedes.
DON'T run DEXCOOL (ORANGE) that stuff plugs up systems.

Thats good fluid, its also marketed by Cat, and Texaco... all as EC-1
 
I usually remove my thermostat, take a water hose with a pistol nozzle and back flush the engine block. If you change the coolant semi regularly, you don't need to flush it with caustic cleaners. I will back flush the heater core also by removing one hose and GENTLY flush it with clean water.
I find the cooling system capacity, add the recommended amount of coolant(50%) and then add the balance of water. You will always have some residual volume of water in the engine. I will sometimes use de-ionized bottled water.

As to the question as to why use the more expensive stuff if the Cummins doesn't have cavitation problems... . I want to protect the radiator cores insides from scale build-up.

It is also a very good idea to wash the cooling fins to remove dirt, salts, bugs, ect.
 
The oem recommended svc interval is 50k. I havent seen many issues by using that #. The coolant is designed to be compatible with the alloys used in the radiator. You can see this by noting the coolants used in the sprinter vs the GC with the same MBZ engine. Different radiator alloys=different coolants. We have about a 28 qt capacity



SPECIFICATIONS - FILL VOLUMES

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION

Metric Standard

3. 7L Engine 16L 17 qts

4. 7L Engine 16L 17 qts.

5. 7L Engine 17. 7L 18. 7 qts.

8. 3L SRT-10 19L 20 qts.

5. 9L Diesel Engine 26. 5L 28 qts.
 
The oem recommended svc interval is 50k. I havent seen many issues by using that #. The coolant is designed to be compatible with the alloys used in the radiator. You can see this by noting the coolants used in the sprinter vs the GC with the same MBZ engine. Different radiator alloys=different coolants. We have about a 28 qt capacity



SPECIFICATIONS - FILL VOLUMES

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION

Metric Standard

3. 7L Engine 16L 17 qts

4. 7L Engine 16L 17 qts.

5. 7L Engine 17. 7L 18. 7 qts.

8. 3L SRT-10 19L 20 qts.

5. 9L Diesel Engine 26. 5L 28 qts.





you sure your not thinking about your other truck? the manual for mine says 100K for coolant.
 
At exactly 1 year I had my factory HOAT stuff changed out to Fleeguard Compleat PG 50/50 premix. I did this because I didn't trust the HOAT, although in hindsight there was no reason not to.

Here's the thread about it.

The Fleetguard stuff is good until the first engine rebuild, as long as I periodically add their ES extender product.

Ryan
 
Miles 45,000 52,500 60,000 67,500 75,000

(Kilometers) (72 000) (84 000) (96 000) (108 000) (120 000)

[Months] [36] [42] [48] [54] [60]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X

Lubricate Front Drive Shaft Fitting (2500/3500, 4X4). X X X X X

Rotate tires. X X X X X

Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 (4X4) models only. X X X X X

Check transfer case fluid level. X

Flush and replace engine coolant at 60 months, regardless of mileage. X

Inspect drive belts, replace as necessary. X X

Inspect water pump weep hole for blockage X X X

Replace fuel filter element. Clean the water in fuel sensor. X X X

Inspect brake linings. X X

Inspect and adjust parking brake if necessary. X X

Inspect fan hub. X

Inspect damper. X

Inspect front wheel bearings. X

Replace fuel filter element. Clean the water in fuel sensor

It looks like they have changed the numbers around on me when I wasn't looking... ... . but it is still 60 mos :eek:
 
So if they say 60 months, I am still not due.



I have 76K on it and it's an 04. 5, I bought it new almost 4 years ago.



I may wait a bit just because I am busy right now and I want to do it right.



I am however going to order some new hoses and a serpentine belt from Genos. I will carry them as spares until I change the coolant, then they will go on.
 
One thing I would like to add, that I didn't see mentioned is to use distilled water when filling or topping off the cooling system. Most water from the tap, (though alright for human consumption) will effect the metal and rubber components of the cooling system in a detrimental way, because of chemical or mineral content.
 
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